FuerteStu

When I first use a new brand or model when second fixing, I take one if the grub screws out and examine it. Some will have a flat, some round and some have a pointed tip. I've even seen ones with off centre poorly machined tips that carve into the copper like a drill bit. Screwfix now sell Sockets with wago style lever terminals which I think is the future. One lever per wire, solid connection, easy to identify and separate for continuity issues. Retermination doesn't damage either the wires or terminals either.

Unless the circuit is designed to have a high integrity earth added (usually an IT room or other area with dc current leakage, like a fruit machine room) then it's a preference thing. I tend to use both elements of the ring/radial in the same terminal, with the link to the backbox in the other. For me, it's all about the dressing of the cables back into the space that's more significant, it's all about the butterfly shape! Correctly dressed wires will massively reduce the risk of pinching, being pulled out, and damaged by faceplate screws.

I have no idea.. Personally, I never chewed on toys, pen lids or lolly sticks when I was younger 🙄🤣

I've come to realise you should treat screwdriver bits like drill bits. And not expect much from them after a few hours use. Dewalt are OK, but erbaur seem more long lasting. They recommend PR2 bits for plasterboard screws because they sit deeper and are less likely to jump out, but I only keep PZ2 and PH2 bits in my driver box. I've only used plasterboard screws on my self build conversion, and only had issues with PH2 when Over stretching. I guess if you're doing it day in day out, you might be more fussy!

First time this decade.. Shall we bring balloons?

Most low end smoke alarms work on the concept of air transparency. I've seen them triggered by vaping, talcum powder and even ants. If it happens again, consider maybe looking inside it. It's too new to be a fault I'd say

Welcome! Dont be afraid to ask anything, this place will have the best ideas, for any issues you have.

One thing I have noticed is that impact drivers will wreck cheap PR2 bits fairly quickly. And when they round off a little they tend to jump out and indent into the plasterboard. I know there are those who are going to scream about using a standard drill on a specific torque setting, but that wasn't man enough for the 90mm screws to get through the plasterboard and insulation backing and into the larch truss

Interesting read, I was always under the impression that the urban temperature rises was because of city structure trapping the heat in more than surface reflectance. just as a rainforest canopy does. Would be interesting to find that original post from years ago and look at it with fresh eyes.

My 2p.. All my gear is dewalt. Mainly because it gets exposed to the elements a lot more (site work not just domestic). Yes other brands are tougher and better, but replacing a drill for ~£50 bare or sds for ~£140 much more reasonable. Having everything the same brand pays back in the savings in batteries and it's a godsend to swap over from another tool when you're up in a cherry picker or plant room 7 floors up. The dewalt multitool is reliable, and solid. The only iffy thing for me is the handle by the trigger gets hot after about 30 minutes of cutting. But I doubt you'll be using it that much.

The model was shared on another forum decades ago, and showed energy retention levels of manmade surfaces from infrared radiation. Natural surfaces absorbed the heat that was then lost through induction, whereas man made surfaces radiated more of the heat back out. It showed heat maps of urban areas during daylight as well as night. It seemed logical that the energy from the sun was more likely a net loss in urban areas, and in areas of nature that energy was turned into stored in the form of carbon capture as well as localised heat retained because of canopies of fauna

I saw a model once that showed mans impact on heat generation was a net loss. Due to the amount of roads, roofs and other surfaces that 'radiated' Heat back out to the void at a higher rate than natural surfaces. At the end of the day the energy we generate heat from came from the sun in the first place regardless. (unless you're talking nuclear generation)

So in theory most of the actual fixing could be in the wall, and the floor fixing could be tile depth just for stability? (assuming he used the same method)

When I replaced the Mother-in-law (anagram of woman Hitler) kitchen, her old sink had been fitted with just silicone. Sat there fixed for 25+years no problem. In terms of tap spacing, I would say the underside is more significant than the top. Picture having to tighten that locking nut in 6 months, how awkward is that going to be? I've seen the Swan neck flexi taps fitted on a back corner of a sink and I thought 'hmm I suppose that's more logical'.

The theory is that it's recently grown timber, so over the space of 100 years what was soaked up by the tree, is released. No net increase.. In fact, over the trees lifespan it's a net decrease as leaves, branches etc end up becoming Soil.

The problem is, that promises to stick to "1. 5'c" are reliant upon being truthful about emissions, realistic about effectiveness of carbon offsetting, and investment in industries with no track record. The promise to meet that target is like going into a casino with 5 quid in your pocket, but 5 million in credit available I think we need to be adopting a very bold "do everything we possibly can in the hopes that some of it will save the planet"

Charge yourself double for the extra effort on a Friday..

I actually think part of the solution might be accidentally presented to ourselves by nature and natural selection. Perhaps a large algae bloom in the oceans, or Mushroom forest that springs from the retreating permafrost. The planet has a history of change, and has adapted each time. Granted the current change is massively accelerated by humans, there should still be something out there that benefits and thrives from the excesses, that we could use to ease the symptoms

The problem is that those who have the respect to be listen to in terms of solutions are respected scientists. Scientists do not get respected by theorising untested solutions based upon data sets that are incomplete, with wild variations in possible outcomes due to it being such a complicated modelling. We end up sound bites from politicians with an agenda, or celebrity driven scientists who quote opinions not science. All reasonable people agree that we need to do something, but it will come at a huge sacrifice to those who have the power to do it. There will be a few dead canarys before things change.

My gut feeling is that we've already pushed the cart over the hill and there's pretty much no way of stopping an extreme future. Even if we hit net zero tomorrow, there's still so much we've already pumped into the world, that (to use an analogy this forum would understand) the slab has had a hundred years of underfloor heating pumped into it, and even if we find a way of using air con that doesn't make the situation worse, we'll have to have the windows open all year round for a long time to come to deal with it. Trouble is, that due to the increased sea temperatures, we'll be dealing with a lot more extreme weather events, not just the warmer seasons, but the strongest storms ever recorded and getting worse for decades. Saying all that, we won't hit net zero for a long time because of corrupt governments and a greedy fossil fuel industry.. So we're actually in it for a lot worse.. When things get bad, modern economics will collapse, the knock on from that will kill more people than the weather will. If you think energy and food are expensive now, you wait to global crop failures and blanket bans on shipping come in. Anyways, at least we've all got half finished houses to live in!

It's too late for it now. But I always take a 16mm armoured and have a separate CU In the kitchen. It's the one place that's rewired more than any others, and although it sounds expensive, it's a lot less long runs for individual circuits.

And not behind it, as I often see.. How are you supposed to safely isolated it if it's on fire 🙄

The market is less skilled jobs. A labourer can fit Wedges of foam. A carpenter fits timber. 50% of the cost of construction is labour. They don't see that skilled trades save money in the long run. Big industry relies upon fancy demonstrations and promises of long term savings. In my mind there's no flexibility in tapered PIR . Lots more wastage and planning. Whereas excess flat PIR can be used elsewhere

Online quoted me four times the price I paid for a local timber merchants to make

What's your cost for firrings? I wouldn't have thought that would be more than £5 per metre, ~160 quid