FuerteStu

The significance is current flow. In 3 plate switch wires the current flow goes too and from the switch in the same twin. In modern 2 way it's the same! Goes down to the switch in twin, all the way along the straps to the other switch plate, then back down the common. So the current flow goes back and forth in the same run. Old school sparks tend to use singles and earth's as a feed to the switch, then a single up from the other end as a switch live. This causes a loop in current flow rather than it going back along the same run.

Yes, I've seen a string of outside garden lights pulse dimly because if these neons. they are easy to disconnect and throw away though

Just curious, do you have pictures of his the lightswitches are wired? I've seen massive differences in induced voltage when 2 way/intermediate switches are wired with 3 core, with feed and switch going to same plate, and the old school method of running the feed to the first switch and taking the switch live up from the last switch plate. (which I thought was against regs since 17th Edition because of the induction loop it created)

My guess is that there will be a new line of "compatible" products that are very expensive. With other products that would work in their catalogue left cheap but not labelled as compatible for profits sake. It's a bit like when induction hobs came out and there were expensive lines of pots and pans released designed for them, when often their budget range also worked just as well.

Looks like a bit of a squash in there..

Is there an option for an in line waterproof plug (like the type you get on a lawnmower) to extend to a sensible place? My personal preference when having to put Sockets under sinks and baths, is to put them on single unswitched Sockets. Logic being that is one less area for water to get into the back box, and one less risk. (if a socket did get wet, the instinct is to switch it off which means touching the water which could potentially be live)

I've worked as a tradesman for 25 years, first as carpenter then Electrician. I've seen, at an ever increasing rate, a higher number of disreputable tradesman than good ones.

You've got a lot of glass in that design, which makes me think you must have some amazing views.. If not. I'd scale back the glass. You'd save a lot in the build, and even more long term in heat loss. Personally, I'd be tempted to build bigger. A 1.7 bathroom isn't that big, you could easily find things get messed up in tolerances, boarding and tiling and you can't fit a bath in there. In terms of project managing with no experience, it will end up costing you a lot more in time and stress. You won't know the terminology of most trades and they will take advantage of you because of this. I'm not saying get someone else to do it, but just be aware that it will happen and you have to factor in that people will lie to make things easier for themselves if they think they can get away with it.

That's what I thought, cheers. Windows are already there. Smokes within 2m.

Works started in Oct 2021 with the garage conversion. That's now a habitable space and integral.. I've now built an entire new floor on top of 3/4s of the old bungalow, which contains 3 bedrooms and a bathroom that open directly onto the gallery landing, with staircase. The house will be fitted with linked Mains powered smoke detectors in hallways and heat detector in the kitchen. I'm convinced I do not need fire doors to the upstairs rooms, my mate who just did his loft conversion is certain I need them. Anyone know for sure? Cheers folks

I've had a fused spur where I tightened the screw with nothing in it and it snapped half the head off before it even closed up. Cheap metal, inaccurately machined. Not encouraging when they are the standard brand in so much of our infrastructure these days.

People often forget that skillful use of power tools takes years to master and most of the subtle details of their use are subconscious.. You just do it. It's an art, it takes time to get there. There's no harm in buying a few quids worth of materials and just practicing

I've taught loads apprentices over the years how to use power tools properly. Overwhelmingly, the problem is using the trigger as an on or off switch, and not slowly applying pressure. Steady as you go Don't lean on the back of the drill as it starts, let the rotation do the initial cutting before putting too much weight behind it. Concentrate on just holding the drill in the same place. Often the surface isn't flat, if the first part of the drilling is off centre, then angle the drill until the tip ends up behind where the mark was, then slowly straighten up. As you drill deeper, the tip of the drill is where the fixing will end up. Try and hold it as straight as possible. Picture the back of the drill moving forwards, not the tip of the drill bit. There's no shame in starting of a hole with it not on hammer mode. Go steady on just rotary if you're scared of the drills power.

Could you contact the Local Authority building control? The houses behind me were signed off by independents, and they had zero surface drainage fitted and none of the roof tiles were fixed down... When LABC got involved the builders soon got their act together and righted the wrongs.

This awkward neighbour of yours.. Does he sit on the planning board or know someone who does?

Mk have recently gone downhill. They moved production to Romania and China. The terminals are tough to tighten even without copper in there. So how can you possibly gauge a good connection.

So maybe the possibility that subsidised heat pumps are only installed in tandem with solar to reduce the impact, and EV charging is a short term issue as far as I see.. Self drive capable cars will take themselves off and charge elsewhere. Returning when needed.

Could have done with this drop 6 weeks ago.. (I bought 50 sheets..)

Even a 6m I joist will be around 50kg if mine were anything to go by.

Joking aside, you can get metal sprung clips that stop this happening.

Do you have any of the original tile grout? Or could you colour match? Provided the new rail is in front of it, I doubt you'll notice 3 6mm holes that blend in. (I moved my towel rail up 6"and filled my fixing holes with grout, you'd never notice unless someone pointed it out)

Could you have a stop start handrail, with a section where is spans the floor Depth in solid block? So it appears to travel through it?

So long as there isn't the opportunity for movement in it is not a huge deal.. Provided you don't have a history of badgers or similar in the area, they can make a real mess of cables on the ground Make sure it's thoroughly fixed at each end and I don't just mean a tight cable gland. If there's the potential for it to be yanked or stood on, you don't want it being pulled out of its terminals. I saw a sweeping bend of swa rip out of a DB because a labourer was bumping over it with a wheelbarrow of concrete.. Doesn't take much to cause a problem if its not fixed properly

So.. Set the bottom and the front of the stairs square? Gain the extra 20mm as you climb and rely on alcohol to avoid the stress of it? Or render and feather?

It's a 60s bungalow.. Not much was exactly square to begin with. But this is an eye catching area. Not old enough or original enough to be quirky. But despite me pointing out to the Mrs how far it is out, she can't see it. So maybe it's just me? 20mm over just under 2m