Super_Paulie

Having done the job now, did you ever go with what you suggested Mike? For no other reason other than "just coz" I was wondering if I could rig a smart relay to the system so I get the notification when the relay switches. I guess this would be dependant on how the interconnect works, I'd imagine it puts a live on that line when triggered, but I doubt it would be 240v. All fairly pointless, but just a thought.

My "plant room" is under the stairs and it's damn toasty where everything converges. Basically it has UFH as a by-product of such.

Nope. I did initially design it with a condensation collar I think they are called in the system which just sits in line. Can't recall why I didn't go with it in the end, think I was trying to evacuate the trap to the eaves, but as the run is insulated and so short the 10 minute over-run seems to deal with it. Been in over 2 years now and shows no ill effects, and I enjoy a good long 20 minute shower every evening. I'll likely revisit the whole thing when I pull out the bathroom to make it all a bit more serviceable, I was in a rush for the install as the builders had made my bathroom "windowless" for a short time with the wraparound extension.

I did. Used rubber I found at work but it's nothing out of the ordinary, just cut it down to go in each corner. My initial plan was to suspend the whole thing on bungee cords from the rafters but I thought I'd just try it as it was and it was totally fine so I didn't bother.

i did exactly this. Was tricky to get the tubing correct as the vent was "too close" to the motor but with some fancy angles it was pretty straightforward. I insulated by wrapping with 25 or 50mm and then aluminium tape all round to stop it from falling away. ps, in the first photo i used duct tape which was useless and fell off half an hour later. Use aluminum tape all round is my advice. really? the only noise i hear is the sound of the air getting sucked up, the fan itself is so quiet you cant hear it running from any other room but the loft. Thats why i use the run-on timer as people just kept forgetting to turn it off and it would run all night, non the wiser.

nope, renovation is not that grand. Need to vent outside to please BC in this instance.

out of interest Nick, why non-silicone? im about to put a vent in for my downdraft hob this summer so will be in a similar situation.

yeah its wool in the cavity. I could have filled between the steels with wool but i had PIR so just used that and with wool on top/around it and foamed it in. I think i used a 15mm PIR underneath the beam to bring it flush to the bottom of the joists. You may be right. I was just following the guidance of my BCO, see below extract. Im in the North East of England if that has any bearing: Afternoon Paul, Given that the subject beam will be set above the ceiling level, without any down stands, I can confirm that a standard single 12.5mm plaster board would be deemed satisfactory in terms of providing the required fire protection. As such, you can use either approach of an additional strip of plaster board or placement of insulation. Regards.

It's a twinned steel which I insulated between with PIR. The timber is joists on the inside and I guess a wall plate on the outer. Steels support the cavity wall above, pitched roof to the front, room to the rear.

For what it's worth, my BC said I can just fly over my beam with standard plasterboard because it's within the ceiling void. Nothing else required for him to give it the old ok.

You want any liquid to run towards the outer leaf so you'll be alright. My ties had a double dip in the centre anyways to stop moisture travelling all the way along them and back to the inner, but if they slope down then water isn't going to travel up!

i have a beam over my doors similar and yes it bridges out to in. I have insulated board underneath it attached with CT1 and the beam itself packed with PIR and wooden uprights to attach the plasterboard to, used foam along the inner edge to insulate it where i could. Doesnt seem any colder than anything else, happy with it.

im a 3D tech and i use Sketchup for room designs, Rhino for architectural stuff and Fusion for things with moving parts. No idea on cost but id imagine the order i wrote them will also be the order of cost from low to high.

Length wise I'm only looking at 2m on the horizontal until I hit the outer wall. Might do that and get BC sign off before I build my deck...

During a refurb I just can't see the point. I did think about these though for the bedroom, like a light switch either side of the bed as we haven't decided on the final bed position yet. In the end I just decided to go with a wireless ZigBee switch that controls a smart relay at the actual switch.

Evening you fine people. Not sure if this should be in this or ventilation, but here goes. The external ventilation from my downdraft hob. Would it be acceptable to bring the vent out under my bifold doors and thus under wooden decking (not built yet) I can't really see a way to get it up a wall as the rear of the house is pretty much all door...

not an expert by any means, but if it was my roof i wouldnt have any issues throwing a few 20mm holes along the centre line in advance of the insulation.

I have 2x SS5 and they are borderline silent on "normal" mode. I also got a SS7 which was noisy for me (tinnitus) so i replaced it with the SS5. Id imagine over time they will get noisy as they are at floor level and its basically a daft little fan which would dry out, get dirty etc but its nothing a bit of a dismantle and clean wouldnt sort out.

im doing the same thing on my 30's place, but on an internal exposed wall. I did various mixes and found out that by simply throwing a "1" of sharp sand gave me the aggregate look on the surface random enough to blend in.

i have a Sonoff at the switch and every bulb is a Tapo so can dim, change whites or any colour you fancy. Wont ever use it, but you know, "Smart stuff".

You can get talon covers in various colours. I got black ones to attempt to match the nickel valves, looked crap so went for the chrome version instead, much happier and just polished up the small amount of copper. Suggest you try that for a few quid first, and either polish the copper or use a matching chrome pipe snap cut to size?

I have exactly this in the original 1930s part of the house. It's what you think it is, a long wooden dowel that is nailed to wedges in the corners of brick work. I have exposed a wall and recreated the detail with the original method, see attached in an awful photo you can see the wedge top right. Brought back memories of painting that wall that blue/green and then 2 days later painting it back over again with something less sh1te.

😆 I looked at the post, realized i had no better alternative to what you had already done. Thought either a) hole in the bottom of the box to exposed air to atmosphere or b) silica gel in the box. Neither would work id imagine.

for what its worth i used these open frame jobs and seemed decent enough. House hasnt burned down yet, i just pushed the acoustic wool out of the way with the bulb frame. https://integral-led.com/en/catalog/node/evofire

I did not, was a right chew on. Did insulated on the heads where i could but the whole thing was a clart about and im glad its now over...