Super_Paulie

Afternoon guys. My kitchen is ready to mist coat after a fortnight waiting for the fresh skim to dry. However, the middle third (above worktop but below wall units) is to be tiled across it's full length. I don't really want to leave bare plaster behind my units so I was going to mist them and then just whack some paint on to keep it nice and clean, but what about the section to be tiled? Should I just leave that bare plaster and then use something like SBR there? As usual, multiple conflicting advice online so buildhub to the rescue hopefully.

i did as Mike says, but i was moving 15mm. Sleeved in 22mm conduit, propped into place and then mortar back in. Also done the same job but used airtight expanding foam (FM330) as well as it was too awkward to get the mortar in without it being a mess and that has worked totally fine as well.

whatever happened to that gaff that was built on an old barge or tanker or something? the whole thing was an incredible watch.

i will move onto HA when i have finished building the place, but for now Google does what i need it to do (barely) like open the velux's and turn on lights that have no switches yet etc. All my Sonoff minis can be flashed to work locally, so when i have the time i'll move onwards and upwards.

I have pretty much every switch in my house running through Sonoff minis. So as well as potentially burning the house down im also sending everything I do to China. However they haven't let me down, work perfectly, and my bank balance remains at £0 so I haven't been robbed yet.

for what its worth, i have 100mm centres in a 30mm pug with Thermal Stream underlay but my original carpets and its average at best. That carpet will be going in the bin once i have finished the building work and getting something that is borderline invisible to get a quicker response. The back room with LVT is 4 times the size but heats up significantly quicker.

so you have flow but the Δt is 0... im not sure how that would be possible. Have you tried removing the actuators from those loops and just running them open to see if its actually flowing, is there any warmth at all?

for info i foamed in some PIR, levelled the sill with ply and looped the DPM over onto the ply and stapled it down, ready for a window board. Rightly or wrongly!

Hi guys. After some quick advice on one of my windows. I'm about to board the reveals, but the lower cill has no cavity closer like my other windows but it does have a DPM as a cavity tray going into the outside leaf. How am I meant to detail this, merely drop an insulated board over the top of the DPM? I can see outside brick under the frame of the window so not sure the best way to proceed. Cheers guys

thats weird, that never used to be the case at all. Still, good news on the sign off.

cant you just lash it with intumescent paint as it is and its job done? Rawlins will give you a certificate regardless of how well its been applied and that will be enough to satisfy BC.

Hi guys. Just about to plasterboard the extension ceiling but the trussed roof has joists that go in both directions. Am I better off keeping the direction of the boards the same, resulting in half the boards having just 1 screw line in the field (dead centre) and screwing in along the long edges? Or have the board change direction to keep my boarding screws mainly in the field. Hard to describe, here's a photo. The board going from right to left means the boards to the right in the photo will have the centre line at 600mm.

What Dave said. IP65 black junction box and extend the cables/connect the new light via Wago is probably what id do.

Plus I've had at least a few bird strikes into the doors and it's such a shock you literally nearly soil yourself. Also had a seagull actually fly in and walk around the kitchen.

sounds like youre bitter... just let it go, god speed.

agree to this. Was totally seduced by "Grand Designs" and went for double set of doors meaning the entire back end of the house cant be used for furniture at all. If i could go back id do what you suggest there for sure. Saying that, in summer its the absolute dogs danglies but summer is "blink and you'll miss it" here in the North East.

Would have 100% been more demanding to the builder to do what I had on the plans. I ended up with a lot missed off, things slightly out of place that had massive knock-ons, and just generally it was a bit shit. At the end of the day I was paying them to do a job, and it went on for that long I just wanted them gone but it's cost me months (years?) to work around the issues I was left with or rectify them.

Evening. I've added 100mm acoustic wool (SuperGlass) between the joists between the ground and first floor. The ground floor has UFH but upstairs has rads, which I hope to never use. Question is, is the 100mm enough to balance out the sound absorption and "slight" heat transfer I require? Deck is 22mm, ceiling is standard 12.5mm. Id rather not hear the missus stomping around to the latest Taylor Swift rubbish, but I don't want a bedroom that is absolutely baltic either. Any thoughts? Banana for scale. 🍌

could unscrew the actuator and see if it makes the noise when its not attached to the manifold? would at least tell you if its the actuator or the valve pin movement.

if you are going to remove your joists then go for it. If i could go back id remove all the joists and slab the entire thing, but its too late for me now.

Been on "abrasive wheels" training a few times with work. Strangely enough, it's exactly the same each time.

while i dont condone criminal damage, a battery reciprocator with a new long metal bit would cut that flush as the blades are supper bendy. Just sayin.

Nah, I ran an my services in the void underneath the insulation. Put a hatch at each end of the room incase I need to pull something through in the future, but I'm not planning on that.

ive got underfloor in my 1930s house, all biscuit mix on suspended floors, works a treat so far. 170mm of PIR between the joists all foamed and taped, then the pipes within a dry mix and then chipboard floor.

my 1930s place has wooden lintels over the doors and windows, pretty must the same as what you have there. From what i recall there is no outer lintel, but rather the soldier course rests on top of the original wooden window frame. Obviously most of these are now replaced for double glazing, so the bricks rest on the UPVC frame, which is far from ideal but seems a pretty common way of doing it. As its rendered on the other side this seems like it might be pretty destructive to change. Id just leave it if it was me, unless its truly rotten.