Ed Davies

Maybe if they don't shift some units soon they won't have a long term, anyway.

This seems possible. There are a few things to think about, though: 1) How would you insulate under the floor? 2) How will you insulate the top and sides? If you put the insulation on the outside then you'll need an additional weather-proof skin outside that at which point it seems a bit of a waster of steel for the container. If you put the insulation on the inside then there's the problem that the steel is not overly vapour open so you're likely to have problems with condensation between the insulation and the steel. Also, once you have a reasonable amount of insulation on the inside the dimensions of a container get a bit cramped. Whichever you choose you need to join it up with the floor insulation in a way which doesn't create a significant cold bridge. 3) How much window area does this extension need? If you cut a significant amount of sheeting out the side of a container it can start distorting and loses a lot of the stiffness which you bought it for. In theory containers seem like a good thing to use but I think practical considerations are likely to negate most of the supposed benefits. E.g., containers don't need foundations because they are structurally stiff within themselves. Maybe some other construction method can give you the stiffness and tolerance of movement needed. Masonry is unlikely to do that but some sort of timber frame might be more appropriate.

How would perforation of either of those coils become apparent?

Brave is advertising ware, isn't it? Firefox 67.0.2 under Ubuntu MATE with a couple of forum tabs, a DuckDuckGo tab and a Wago tab open seems to be using 1.2GB. Total system usage is 1.6GB. Which version of Firefox are you on?

So they're fibbing, it's really a two connection points: 1 solid and 1 stranded? And the 224-112 is really three way: 2 solid (for loop in/out, presumably) and 1 stranded.

First and last digits of the second group seem to be meaningful: first digit is 1 for 2.5mm², 4 for 4mm² and 6 for 6mm², last digit is number of ways. First digit of first group is 2 for clamp and 7 for push. I don't doubt there's more to it than I've extrapolated from a small sample. What's the point of the 224-101 (1 x 2.5mm²)? All I can think of is terminating the earth in a plastic light switch or ceiling rose which isn't loop in/out.

But the common case is to want to make three connections (line, neutral and earth).

The 222-41n things are listed as 28 to 12 AWG which translates as 0.0810 mm² to 3.31 mm² or, more sensibly, 1 to 2.5 mm2. Interesting that they show up to 4 mm² here.

Yes, that's the general conclusion I've come to: ETs aren't terrible but, if you've got the roof space, don't really make sense just for DHW. I have lots but will use them primarily for space heating.

You might find this video interesting, then: His earlier videos on tracksaws in general are on my to-watch list. His most recent one is a slight update on the Lidl tracksaw one.

What they wanted from me was a rumbling drain, ideally at least 50 metres long, though a bit shorter would probably be alright. Mine will actually be around 60 metres so they were quite happy with that. I guess if it was a lot shorter (to be practical in the area of your plot) then the rules would be a bit different. Still, they'd want something between the plant and the burn which might not be required in other countries in the UK.

That is neat. Can you get big versions of that box, like with space for over one hundred 3-way connectors, rather than just five?

When I talked to SEPA about it they said it was their policy to require a rumbling drain on all such plants as a backup, even though the output of the plant should in principle be clean enough.

Friend had the foresight to work out where the post for his staircase would be and left pipes clear of the area to bolt that. Then there was a change of plan (something to do with BC being unhappy with the escape from a mezzanine area which wasn't a bedroom but which some future occupant might conceivably use as a bedroom, IIRC) so that the stairs had to be changed.. It'd have saved a lot of worry to know where the pipes actually were when it came to drilling where they were only 90% sure they weren't.

Yeah, but that's what I sceptical about. Water coming out of the shower head will be in the high 30s or early 40s °C and I suspect the temperature will drop considerably in the time it takes to fall the height of the shower. Then it runs across the shower tray getting cooled by that and by evaporation as it goes. Of course there are huge number of variables, whether you just have a warm shower or one that flays your skin off, the height of the shower head, the room temperature and initial humidity, the length of the shower, the starting temperature of the shower tray, the material of the shower tray (that's probably a major one, fibreglass will behave a lot differently to steel or stone) and so on.

Is shower water really warm enough to be useful by the time it's fallen to the shower tray and flowed across it? I'm sceptical. I have some waterproofed DS18B20 (1-wire temperature sensors) in the post so should try some measurements when they're here.

You could try Weather Underground. E.g., https://www.wunderground.com/history/daily/gb/lincoln/EGNE/date/2019-6-12?cm_ven=localwx_history Though looking more closely that says no precipitation in the last week. Maybe their rain gauge is broken and you need to find another station with a working one.

The usual model is to assume a particular efficiency (η₀) at 0 °C temperature difference (between the water being heated and outside ambient) then a heat loss proportional to that temperature difference and the square of that temperature difference. ΔT = water temperature - outside temperature (°C or K). G = insolation in W/m². Q = power output in watts = Gη₀ - α₁ΔT - α₂ΔT² It's not just the curve that will be different with this model, the losses are also proportionally larger as the insolation drops. This makes sense, in the extreme case (like at night) the panels can actually lose heat. A somewhat old blog post on the subject: https://edavies.me.uk/2012/01/pv-et-flat/

Somebody lopping the shrubs could also find the situation illuminating, briefly.

Good point. Similarly, what struck me from the video was that there was no way to inspect that the wires had been inserted properly, not got line and neutral swapped, etc.

Yes, more often than not. But if the angle is awkward or anything I start with a few light “ranging” taps and work up to proper wacks whereas a hammer tacker is more of a one-shot thing, isn't it?

Glad it's not just me. My first very cheap one ricocheted quite a distance after it hit my container.

Am I wrong in suspecting that hammer tackers need a bit of skill and practice to use accurately? I considered one [¹] but thought I'd finish up with lots of staples in random places close to, but not quite, where they'd be useful. In particular, I wouldn't feel at all confident using one when I come to putting the VCL on the rafters and joists. [¹] it's what the chap in the shop advised when I finished up buying the electric one - he's given me very good advice on other things like my circular saw and nail gun.

Used the Stanley stapler on and off over the last few weeks including a lot yesterday. Very happy with it - easy and comfortable to use and a lot more reliable than the others I have.

That'd be interesting to discuss sometime.