MikeSharp01

Whatever boarding you choose you will need to get a good fan in there to extract the smells but also help to keep moisture at bay as @Ferdinand says. I seems to me than unless you are going for a full wet room tanking might not be value for money as good tiling, and the multipanel approach, sealed well to the floor / tray / bath are good enough even in the shower area. We use seam sealed Wedi board throughout our wet room here at Millstone manor, 20 years now no problems, and Hardie backer on our builds garden room wet room - no problems although that has had very intermittent use so far.

Hi and welcome. You don't need a percolation test unless the BC wants to see one in relation to to soak aways. I did my own and because it is well know that where we are is basically clay the result was no measurable percolation. We ended up feeding rainwater to the local ditch which is allowed if you get permission from the local water company.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and like Minded individuals. Whereabouts in Stirling are you building, spent a chunk of my not so misspent youth as it turned out, chasing after a girl at the Uni there, been married now for 35 years still think of the place fondly and often drop by when visiting friends in Edinburgh, Glasgow and Fife...

Welcome to the forum - you may nee a good Structural Engineer to make sure you don't do anything that undermines the upper structure.

Looking very good - Remind us what that was? I thought there was a fix for it

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and like minded individuals.

Yes it has to be in plastic - Calor have a specification for the pipework and all the fittings - they tell you how much to leave at each end for connection by an approved installer at the house end (the final regulator) and at the tank end where they connect to and push it through a protective pipe up to the tank itself - they don't like joins. We had to do this when we moved our tank here at millstone manor and ran the pipework around the extension.

Are you close to the sea?

If one slip coupler not long enough then use two with a length of pipe between

You wold need to make a section that filled the piston ring cut otherwise you would have a hole. My idea was really to seal around the face of joint if there was a leak though a previous glue job.

Sounds wonderful and Welcome to THE forum.

Looks like it will only work if you can show that the credit agreement additional information was not clear and concise. I think I will look on with interest.

building control will confirm what glass you need as a minimum.

The square nut one is designed to allow a little adjustment to length you can slide the olive along a bit if things don't quite line up. Also to be clear I think that Dave means that it does not matter which end has which fitting but the flow to the TR valve does usually matter.

TBH I have a Festool Plunge saw and 4m of rail which I can put together in various lengths (Think the whole kit was about £1K) and yet I almost exclusively use my little Dwalt battery saw up against a 2.5m length of 8x50 aluminum bar. It is dead quick and I can get the accuracy I crave. You need thin bar to get under the motor overhang, I marked the saw with the distances from blade edge to base edge both ways to make set up dead easy as well and drilled and countersunk holes in the bar to allow me to clamp it to the board. Total cost about £150 - much better.

Funny I used to armchair support WBA when I was at School my chums all had Chelsea, Fulham, Leeds (this was in the days before Man U was a thing.) So I chose a team with an odd name - then I went there and I found out why it has an odd name. PS great view.

In these troubled and emotional times I wonder that you can cope on only one joint a night - me I need 2 whiskys these days, joints I don't do.

Hope pic helps

Not sure if this is mentioned but it has raced to so00000 long that I am not sure I have the -.... anyway. My solution would be cut a 25mm length of the black pipe, create a cut in the ring (piston ring style) clean up the surfaces with care and spring it over the offending section align the cut with a good bit of the join. Put the solvent cement 25mm along and around the pipe and around the whole face of the female joint that is the problem. Slide the ring up to the face and push hard while the solvent does its work, that should seal it.

Nope but just imagine how polished the planning for when it all kicks off again will be.

we need that team building hospitals.

11 weeks - that is amazing.

+1 to that. Wearing a mask & gloves when unloading / meeting delivery drivers and not touching any of it for 3 days to be sure that our mutual friends have had plenty of time to denature.

Yes it is the old DHW (Domestic Hot Water) conundrum all over again in that once you choose how to heat and / or store heat for your DHW the ASHP either comes into or goes out of focus. We started with a plan to have a gas boiler, ran all the gas pipe under the slab and up into the plant room - the idea was to use the boiler would run the UFH but in the end, what with gas becoming something of a negative thing with global warming, we have chosen to go for sunamp (or similar) for DHW and the ASP for UFH. Cost is a little higher but we won't need any hot storage, which in our house with 400mm insulation, will be a problem and we can disconnect the gas completely.

Looks good. Have you energy planned it yet as the walls look a bit thin for a very high level of insulation unless you are using Ph / Pu I suppose also have you gone for UFH and ASHP?