MikeSharp01

All these drivers in ceilings strikes me as a maintenance nightmare and a worry in 'parasitic' energy consumption. Not sure why the bulb cannot do all the work and just listen on the mesh, assuming the power is on. Seems obvious that the bulb has all the control, starts in a few hundred milliseconds, when power is applied, at a set brightness, or last brightness, and then gets itself on the mesh and awaits further brightness / colour commands from there.

Is there a DPC under the slab. If so you don't need on under the sole plate as no damp can get there and you risk trapping water in the sole plate which could lead to rot.

Put an old blade in the circular saw, set the depth to just less than the thickness of the beam and cut a line in the wood then chisel the timber out using the cut to get the chisel in.

In answer to you original question - Yes, and this is about the best explanation, I found way back when, as helps you in gently.

We decided the best way forward was a permanent supply to a distribution station on the edge of the site so as we added buildings, in our case only 2, we could just add anything we wanted to this station and we had the gas installed there to and we are having the comms coming there as well and if I was brave I would move the water meter there as well but ee do have our site stop tap there. So we have a permanent building which also has the wheelie bins and bikes and we don't need to call back the DNO. I think @ProDave did the same thing.

Interesting - I am still reading about it. I can see the community is strong. I need to understand the API possibilities. We have a small timber framed build and I was hoping that I would only need one and let the mesh do the rest. Lots to learn but thanks for the reassurance.

@cwrWhy not use a length of 28mm plastic pipe you can just uncoil it, I used wall paper stripper to fill the pipe with steam and straighten it, then you can be sure of no joints at all you cannot get to and you do not need to master soldering or fret about failures.

If the pipe is the property of the sewage company does that mean no easements are needed? Would not all the properties without connection running into the public highway sewer not need easements across all the properties. SO the left most property above will need 4 easements, the next 3 and so on?

Have you a link for your image - my neighbor has a similar issue, as @Mike_scotland, which by the looks of that diagram they don't if you get my drift.

We are reaching the crunch choices around the automation for the house and we have both Z-wave and Zigbee actuators / lighting. So I am casting about for a non cloud based hub I can use that handles both. Hubitat looks like a goer but there is / was also Wink not sure if that is still a thing though. Anybody used the Hubitat elevation hub?

Plenty are, but just because you are paranoid it does not mean they are not out to get you. We have had a smart meter at millstone manor for a year, doesn't work / won't commission, bulb sent a chap from Siemens, he looked at it, said it wasn't commissioned and drove off. We have to send photos of the screen to submit a reading and because we are on a dual tariff and the meter is only reading one tariff we spend inordinate amount of time arguing about how to split the bill. The smart meter on the build works a treat though - looking forward to seeing it going backwards when we get the PV🙄.

You still have one that turns?

Why would it not be allowed - it is and welcome to the forum. PV is all about area, angle and shading. If you can max out a South ish facing slope at about 35 degrees with no shading for the vast majority of the days then you can generate well. You then have the challenge of using it. A battery helps and with associated controls you can then run appliances and if the battery is full perhaps some can go into the immersion heater or, worst case, be exported to the grid. There is loads on here about how much you can expect to generate and that's may be your starting point.

Triangles are everything I was always told.

Very sustainable.

Brilliant work @Ralph good to see what can be achieved despite the privations of the dreaded COVID.

Cannot say really - I just made it as exactly as I could to his (it was a him) specification. He did explain that the racking strength was fine longitudinally (Basically North-South) but limited cross wise so he wanted the cross walls to be really stiff and nailed as stated. We do have a reasonable amount of hold down straps into the passive slab to the upright I-Joists, the sole plate is also held down separately while each I-joist is also fixed to the sole plate with Strong-Tie angle brackets and screws. I will have a look at his calcs and see what the uplift forces might be - not much I suspect given the adjacent dwellings. We do have the 150 spacing on the longitudinal and roof boards. All boards are 15mm OSB 3.

I would still look at doing with the insulation. what is the max level above expected zero, what is the raise area as % of total and what happens above the insulation (build up)?

Much cheaper to shape the insulation than the concrete or just have it screeded.

Other than thinking that a properly constructed Larsen truss is practical and therefore structurally OK I cannot comment further on them. On construction - our I-Joists are glued, so the flanges are grooved and the web (9mm OSB) is glued into the groove under pressure (in the factory) so no nails. Where we do have nails (and a lot of them into the flanges) is on the sheathing on the cross walls. 3.1mm dia nails at 50mm centers everywhere for racking strength. So I guess our SE must have thought that that racking issue was the biggie.

So is your building 532m3 ? Not sure how the shape of the building make any difference to the maths but I can see why it makes a big difference to the build challenges. Our build is 465m3 so next stop is to work out what our holes can add up to

I guess the 0.31 is the passive house methodology eg air change rate h-1 @ 50 Pascals.

That's interesting, what I was wondering then is how big a hole is .31ACH?

Unless it's for sharing against solar gain. The new building regs seem to have a bit to say on this in the overheating portion.

So where were the leaks that were still left?