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MikeSharp01

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Everything posted by MikeSharp01

  1. MikeSharp01
    I was speculating as to the appropriate SI units for rate of tiling. My investigations have found two units - as opposed to the more normal case of just the one unified unit. Also more curiously in this case the only difference is in the scale of the time divisor. So (sorry bad grammar Jack) in the normal world the unit is m2/hr while in an anomalous corner of the south east (not far from here) the unit is m2/aeon. This gives us tremendous insight into the curious disturbances in the self build fabric which occasionally manifests itself in achingly slow progress but is yet perfectly aligned with an official measure of getting things done.
  2. MikeSharp01
    Me to! but if a standard OS datum I wonder how it was transfered to the site and why it is so prominent on the drawing. One might expect a single datum zero on the site tracked back to OS datum this way it just feels confusing and you need a vastly long tape to measure heights.
  3. MikeSharp01
    Do you not only get 30 days free so better hurry up and get those questions asked.
  4. MikeSharp01
    Sorry, just the drawing value, no sums done.
  5. MikeSharp01
    @recoveringacademic TOC is top of concrete and the value is the 27.255 height from your drawing. I assume the 27.255 dimension is to the bottom of the piles because if it is from some other survey datum point it may be worth verifying it so you can be sure everything is correct in relation to the datum if it is not the bottom of the piles.
  6. MikeSharp01
    Should read 30.255 and 30M is a long way down. They must be working from some fixed datum a long way away unless its the bottom of the piles, it was piled I think. The other thing to check is how the current unfinished floor on the ground actually compares to that TOC value if it was a planning condition.
  7. MikeSharp01
    Oh er! How did I manage that sorry @PeterStarck
  8. MikeSharp01
    I would worry that those screws should be securing things! Could they be like the screws left over when you have disassembled and then reassembled something. Although I am reminded of a story told by a 90 year old friend of mine. He used to sell cars to the Americans who were over here after WW2 and he would go to the factory and collect them. On his way to delivering them he would stop and lift all the carpets. Removed the dozens of nuts, bolts and washers left over from assembly that were rolling about in the floor pan and replace the carpets. The cars were quieter and pretty soon he had a world class selection of nuts and bolts.
  9. MikeSharp01
    The FFL needs to be checked with the architect as they may have the FFL as the top of floor finishes (wood / carpet/ tiles/ screed) or the top of the sub floor onto which the finishes go. If the former then you need to also add in the thickness of the floor finishes.
  10. MikeSharp01
    Yep that is what our energy assessor said. So 2Kw = 6 SAP points in our case.
  11. MikeSharp01
    As I undersrand it you get an as designed SAP which you need at the start of BC then for final sign off you get the as built.
  12. MikeSharp01
    0.5 I think.
  13. MikeSharp01
    Thanks chaps (assume Chaps) yes I suppose what I wanted to do was save cost if I reduce the PV I could stay above 100 but only, it looks like, if can squeeze down the MVHR as the fabric is pretty much at its limit already. Maybe I could improve air tightness a little, used the PH standard for the preliminary calc, I would expect to do better than that anyway but cannot find the equation linking air tightness and SAP points anywhere.
  14. MikeSharp01
    Our provisional BC SAP came through at 101 A (6Kw of PV or 107 with the full 8Kw) which makes me very happy. However the assessor told me I could have got two more points if I didn't have the MVHR because of the energy it uses. Can't live without MVHR so was wondering what the collective experience was with SAP and MVHR, can I get a better MVHR (Unit so far in the frame is: Airflow Adroit DV145) what, I wonder, is the conversion from energy use to points (Banded / Algebraic / ?) because I am not sure I will get a much lower figure.
  15. MikeSharp01
    Sad - depressing and distressing for you and the family. Have you any pics of the frames. Might help stimulate ideas.
  16. MikeSharp01
    Yes I have rusty hinges on my barn doors no wind will blow them shut.
  17. MikeSharp01
    Plaster is, as I understand it, a good air tight layer.
  18. MikeSharp01
    Its all about the amount of torque they expect you to apply, it has a standard - there are only 5 sizes, and the design should reduce the cam out potential, against Phillips head for instance, at normal torques. Most of the screws I have brought recently actually came with a free driver bit of the correct size!
  19. MikeSharp01
    SH 1 T you mean they are different - its OK though cos I must be a proper tradesman.
  20. MikeSharp01
    No easy way I have ever come across. Do you have a multitool? If so you can probably cut the wood away from around the screw head and then grip the head with a pair of mole grips such as these. You can then twist them out. One thing to remember about these screws, well most of them, is that the are hard and can be snapped off - they don't like bending, by accident or perhaps for you, on purpose.
  21. MikeSharp01
    I guess they had no stake in getting them out so didn't worry about putting them in such that they could be extracted. That is quite a nice selection you have there though. Some are wood (L-R) 2,3,& 4, some for concrete 1 one for roofing material 5 and I cannot identify 6 but i must be a high torque application as it uses a torx head drive like the first. Plus, it looks like you have rested them on a very neat tea cloth ( dish / towel).
  22. MikeSharp01
    Thanks, will try that and see what happens.
  23. MikeSharp01
    There is a discount, around 20% I believe + free coffee and occasionally shorter queues.
  24. MikeSharp01
    Many thanks Peter, will see if I can get a job lot as well.
  25. MikeSharp01
    Hi. @PeterStarck , Is that a pocket door frame in the last picture? If what make is it and would you recommend it.
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