MikeSharp01

Looks good Dave - 3 blokes sound a lot though.

Sorry what was the case ref - I feel the need to drop by the law library and refresh my memory!

oh er!

Presumably you will be able to build quite high with this new material......

Such as are available from Screwfix among other places I guess...

There is Gold in them thar hills. - GREAT FIND?

Yes and made in UK so that's the one I will go for along with the 15L 2kw water heater. Together and alowing for infrastructure +/- (ie two electric circuits but no hit pipework, mixer / shower hose & spray head they come in at the same cost. I don't have room for a UVC sadly. In the main house HW will come via the Vaillant Combi unit we already discussed. Thanks for the guidance.

See if you can avoid making it flat front to back, better to have lower portion in the middle, tool well IIRC, to gather stuff that won't get knocked off and put tools down that are below the workpiece resting across the gap. I made my site bench with 4 x 2 and 25mm OSB for the top at the back and 25mm ply for the front - smoother, both sitting on a 12mm OSB sheet (so tool well only 25mm deep - could be deeper). Also drilled some holes to take the workmate stops to keep things in their place. Tops are sacrificial so make sure you bury any screws used to clamp it down or you will hit them when you run the skil saw set to 0.25mm deeper than the work piece.

Found this Bristan unit, comes in on budget as well.

Think I assumed it would be but its only for gravity fed systems anyway so its out as the feed is mains direct. Will keep looking but a quick look and it seems that I cannot get the two systems for the same cost as the Eltron unit although I will have to buy a thermostatic shower mixer tap and the spray head / bar unit.

No house there yet, possible long term but need to get the garden room up and running abut 18 months before house will be ready. It is TMV on the drawing. I suppose I could do this: Small DHW (15L) such as THIS for around £100 and a shower unit such as THIS for around £100 more would work out a bit cheaper than the Stiebel option but need more infrastructure! I will give it some thought.

of Coarse - course is faster, fewer turns to drive them in - 40% quicker and if collated you can bang through a box of collated screws in a few hours!

Ok - does that mean I need an automatic TRV in there - I keep coming up against them needing a minimum of 60deg for them to work and I won't come close to achieving that at a decent flow rate? The Eltron is a high (ish) end unit and has good temperature control so if I set it to an achievable temperature it should deliver it safely I believe and not overshoot. The flow rates for higher temperatures would be quite low - looks like around 4L/min for 4 deg in and 45 deg out and for 4 in and 60 out only 3 L/min. So I could set the temp to say 50 and then let the TRV control it down to 41 (ish) but if you open up the flow it will get significantly cooler! Yes its just the Garden room. It has two rooms and a wet room, sort of annez but more likely a studio. I could put an electric shower in, I don't have gas down to this building, but looking at the diversity, just one occupant perhaps most of the time, having a unit that does the whole job seemed like the sensible way forward.

For a couple of reasons I stayed home today and have, among other things, been working on the HW system for the garden room. I hit a slight problem, well two really and they are explained in the attached image. Essentially we are using an instantaneous hot water heater like the one @JSHarris uses. to provide HW there are three HW outlets one to the kitchen sink and two in the wet room - basin and shower. I am thinking, now that I have drawn it, I won't need a mixer tap and can rely on the heater to control the water temp. In other posts we have worked out that we can get the temperature we need provided the flow is not to high. I also wondered if having a simple control scheme that prevents water being drawn by the basin taps if there is any flow to the shower, might have value. I have found the bits I need for that but not sure if I am just over thinking this. Any thoughts and / or ideas? PS the drawing on the left is the physical layout from the floor ducts - under the kitchenette worktop.

You are right Dave - but at last things are turning down, house prices are down across London and SE this year. This is good because if the spread of the super rich continues London and the SE won't work because nobody, who the super rich need to service their life styles, will be able to live close enough to London to work there! People are already commuting routinely from Norwich and beyond. Unfortunately our political class have no interest in really sorting things so the country(ies) can be a fairer, more balanced, place while the Westminster bubble is maintained by tax payers money! If, while we slowly rebuilt the houses of parliament, we put the political classes - and parliament in a Portakabin city on the old Chemical plant sites in Middlesbrough they might get enough understanding of what it is really like to have the road to Damascus (not suggesting we send them there) conversion they need. (Rant over)

Not sure you can be a chippy and not have done these, even I - an amateur, have done them! Birds beak might work....as @ProDave says.

are they raw timber then? in which case good preservative, Cuprinol or similar, is the best you can probably do yourself. The green timber is treated under pressure!

Loos very tidy. Only do this if you intend NOT to walk on them. My reading tells me at least in theory that battens these days come in several categories and for roofing without sarking (Boarded out), which you can walk on anyway, you need the ones that come graded (Pink / green is it?) without faults and won't break - so you won't fall through. If you are making all of them you can thicken things up to help strength and remember how the grain runs to help strength again. If its a battery saw be prepared to recharge every length of two, specially if the timber is wet but Safety first.

Looks exciting, I guess as long as you can get consistent properties that can be verified cannot see why you could not build with it, you can with almost anything!

Thanks @nod I was going to do a course on this but think I will have a go at one wall and see how I get on as it looks like a job I should be able to do and it is another chance to buy some tools!

By top coat do you mean paint or an overal covering and scraping off of compound with a roller and 14" trowel? Other wise it sounds like a plan.

Yes I have a plan but I don't need a giraffe sander right now as the garden room is quite low but in the main house I will - you can spend of a grand on a good Festool! We may end up needing it at the same time!

You can get both T&G and square edge at 1200 x 2400 (See here for details)

Na..... just use 12mm Hardie Backer board - you could probably get away with 1200mm centres, no wonder you cannot buy it in the 1200 x 2400 sheets only smaller ones (1200 x 800) as the weight would be unmanageable on anything bigger!

Chilly for you and yours