Iceverge

We have one from Proair in Galway. No issues so far although it's not the prettiest of contraptions. https://www.proair.ie/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/1305-proair-fex-terminal-brochure.pdf I have my suspicions that you could probably put regular the terminals right next to each other but intakes and inlet staggered by a few cm and it'd be fine anyway. I intend to take off the cover and test out the theory some day if I get a chance. One of the greatest advantages is that you can have a minimum run of inlet and exhaust ducts inside the heated envelope. Here is a snap of ours from the inside during installiation. The two ducts on the RHS are for the external terminal. I reckon there's less than 1m of ducting run here in total.

Do you own the property or are you just feeling it out. Before going much further down the line I'd get the views of someone with the authority to analyse structure and see if its possible to salvage. Without knowing any more my gut is telling me that it's a non starter given the problems with the existing barn.

The building sounds like it would need a lot of work to take to a habitable standards. Your remaining internal space would be small, especially if you use block inner leaf. Where do you sit with planning permission, conservation status etc? Pictures or drawings might help.

More info needed about the current structure. What's it made from? How thick are the walls? Is it in good condition?

Internal leaf you mean? 215mm block on flat downstairs and 100mm upstairs. Talk to the precast floor suppliers. They'll let you know as it's dependant on ceiling height. I seems to remember something about 12 courses of 100mm block being OK for first floor with precast floors.

We have a 250mm blown bead cavity in SW Ireland. No issues with cracking due to the beads but as the cavity is wider and less stable than standard you may get more settlement cracks. As mentioned above most installs are only compliant with plastered external leafs so you may need to change your brick. Here is a list of approved operators. As usual the key is avoiding the cowboys. https://www.nsai.ie/search/insulation/eyJyZXN1bHRfcGFnZSI6InNlYXJjaFwvaW5zdWxhdGlvblwvIiwia2V5d29yZHMiOiJCZWFkIn0/

Avoid the white one. The blue one is fine but beware of the low flow rates of smaller sizes. (Noise) In essence a duct should be non collapsible. This includes the ducts on the intake exhaust (Outside) side of the MVHR.

Proceed with care or you could end up with a worse building than what you started with. Fundamentally you want to prevent anything getting wet or even worse wet and cold because it will fall apart in shortish order Internal insulation is making the structure cold and unless you install a perfect vapour barrier (almost impossible on a retrofit) it'll get damp. Ideally external insulation would be the best but if you can't do that a considered later of breathable insulation between the studs (woodfiber being one) covered by a breathable layer of lime plaster and breathable lime paint will keep you warm and preserve the house for future generations.

No issue so long as it's specced correctly. They are easy to DIY and eliminate cross talk. Just avoid this style of flexible ducting.

It's not difficult, just take your time. After various experimentation with a beesmoker, Joss sticks, talc etc I found the easiest way was the back of your hand for the larger leaks, it's surprisingly sensitive. Then I shoved a long candle into a piece of conduit for the minute pinholes. This was remarkably accurate at finding weak spots with the added advantage you don't have to do any climbing or bending down No special equipment, some on here have DIY'd manometers but it's not easy to make an accurate one The guy with the blower door did the proper measurements Are your joists built in already?

No mention of form factor. You can build a super low energy demand house to current insulation levels if you keep the design compact. The window target is also some low hanging fruit. A neighbour priced upgrading to triple glazing on his 250m2 new build. €800 inc vat.

Good timber frame is the best. Bad timber frame is the worst. Block builds span the mediocrity in between.

I've already purchased it and fitted a socket strategically over the main entrance door with it in mind. It's unlikely anyone will ever look at it. Also that lovely one you selected it over 5 times the price. You've underestimated how tight I am!

Whilst you're building at any rate I'd put MVHR anyway. It'll help with your SAP. Does away with trickle vents and room extractors and will ensure if you end up with some airtight rooms they won't be stuffy. Given your project is pretty large it won't be significant in the budget.

I grew up with open fires as a kid. In the country. It was great. Or so I remembered....... Then we moved into a rented stone house with open fires. IT. WAS. FREEZING. The memories of being a child in smoky drafty house with a permanent cough and cold returned. We moved again into a small cottage. Open fire. Right bollocks to that I said, went on Donedeal.ie and €200 later and a bit of mucking about had myself a stove. It was a revelation. 4 times less firewood and 4 times as much heat. Happy days. Then we had a baby and all my time disappeared. The novelty of lighting up a roaring fire gradually waned as every day I had to drag out ashes and drag in firewood and wait for a good hour to have any meaningful heat. It became more and more of a chore. I began to feel like this woman. Then I started to read up about indoor air quality. It wasn't too pleasant and now every time I refuel or clean out our stove I get a pang of guilt as a plume of particles drifts off towards our toddler. I'm giving her a better chance of chronic lung problems every time I do this. You say your missus has notions but please make sure she's informed. Here's a good article. https://passivehouseplus.ie/magazine/insight/home-heating-choices-and-air-quality On a less depressing note avoiding a fire in your house will save you money. Even with free timber the payback for our passive house to install a stove was 22 years compared to direct electric. Today my task is to install our entire heating system for our new build. Here's a snap!

no nonsense questions only nonsense answers! yup it can be done like in the below picture with airtight paint. the trouble is thought that it’s difficult to join to your roof airtight layer. if you’re joining to the windows with an external parge coat you’re very weather dependant to get tapes to stick. it’s impossible to pinpoint leaks using a depressurisation fan afterwards too. Have a look through Philips from prodomos blog, i found it useful. I also bought all my airtightness kit from him although i’m not sure if he can supply GB post brexit. https://www.prodomo-ireland.com/prodomo-ireland-s-blog/

Here's a snap of mine.

The best thing you can do is make sure your builders understand the concept in that case and the level of detailing required to get a good result. I'd scour eBay and buy a car fan, wire and some crocodile clips to make up a test fan in a sheet of OSB or ply for one of the windows. Clip it onto the car battery to depressurise the house, (best to leave the car running I found as it draws a lot of current and flattens the battery). Go searching for leaks with the back of your hand. This will do more explaining about the nature of airtightness than anything else I could say. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-2011-LEXUS-IS220-2-2-D-RADIATOR-FAN-422750-1620-/203184726071?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

You're playing catch-up by the sounds of things. Don't worry persistence and patience will get you there. How hands on are you with the build might I ask before I start making suggestions?!

Ace. When's the komatsu being delivered to site??

Perhaps approach the contractor with a fairly easy to achieve airtightness spec of about 2 ACH50 and insist that it's verified and written into the contract. My guess is that they'll tell you that you 1. Don't need it 2. They'll do a great job but there's no need to test it 3. It can't be done 4. It'll cost £100k more. You can build for 1990's money but you'll end up with a 1990's house. My other gut feeling is that the contractor is giving you a low price to get their foot in the door and as soon as you're building they'll find all sort of "unexpected problems," ( Not unlikely TBF) and alter the price accordingly. Ask your architect about some reputable contractors they've worked with and get a few more quotes .

Can you fix straps to the rebar and pour the slab over them.

Prehaps I should have asked what the plasterboard was fixed to? If it's the bottom of the joists then you'll have to deal with plastered blocks between and for the thickness of the plasterboard below the joists. If you use a service cavity then you'll have the thickness of the blocks unplastered in the service cavity. These are potential leakage areas.

Very Smart looking. I'll have a proper look later.