Iceverge

This is what I was thinking of. I suspect you'd be unlucky to have it leak anytime in the near future but there are more areas of vulnerability than built on panels with a full roof covering below. They'll run more efficiently with ventilation behind and be easier to upgrade in future. Arguably less handsome however. I don't know about the total installation cost comparison

I'm a bit sceptical of build in panels. Will replacement parts of the same size be in available in 30 years or sooner if the panels fail? The more holes and fiddling and flashing you do with the roof the more likely it is to leak. Maybe not tomorrow but some day. With that in mind our PV is going on the garage and there's not a single penetration or hole in our hip roof. No lead no joints no nothing. Paranoid maybe!!

Avoid making any holes if at all possible. Service cavities in all external walls and ceilings. Duct in services through the slab and backfill with fine sand around cables pipes etc. MVHR ducts were solid ducts and taped/ airtight painted to the walls inside and out. For the cables to the attic I drilled holes for each wire in a piece of ply and placed sealant around each hole.

The design looks lovely I really like the style. I think £300k is tight given the complexity of the building. You could do it for this if you’re content to live in a building site for literally years on end. We’re 17 months into our build and it’s really dragging on. I can’t imagine the stress if we hadn’t aimed to build a €220k house within our €300k mortgage. (I think we’ll end up at about €280k by the time everything is actually done) You have lots of unusual angles and junctions and the surface area of the house is quite large for the floor area. In short unless you buy excellent windows, put in lots of extra insulation and are very particular with the workmanship you might end up with an expensive house to heat. In terms of size I certainly wouldn’t make it larger, possibly smaller and simplify the shape of the building. Reduce the external wall surface area and all the hall space and other dead space. If grandkids do arrive simple bribery will certainly suffice! Good luck!

Don't forget you can use different thicknesses depending on how much space you need in each room. battening at 90deg to the rafters makes it easy to run wiring and if you insulation inbetween it cuts down on thermal bridging of the rafters. For my money I'd use 50x50mm battens with 50mm mineral wool inbetween.

I think you'll be fine.

Yeah, maybe you're right. Scraping through the SAP by hook or by crook isn't a great start.

No heating at all upstairs. In a new house you won't need it.

5 years is a long time and a lot could change by then. In terms of energy saving the lowest hanging fruits to improve on building regs are. 1.Triple Glazing 2. MVHR 3. Airtightness Added insulation is only an incremental gain in comparison. You could probably ditch the rads upstairs too in all but the bathrooms.

The building control in Ireland is done by the design professional e.g. Architect/engineer. The process is less than rigorous and the hazards of incorrectly installed UVC's are not widely understood. I spoke to the manufacturer and he's OK with the expansion arrangement however I'll at least get them to take the handle off it. He was ok with the over temp line dimensions and length too but I can't see any reason not to redo it as per MIs when the tundish is being fitted.

Thanks @PeterW We are in Ireland and believe it or not Bregs are silent on this. I can imagine that'll only change when there's an accident. 1. The discharge pipework into the main wastewater pipework. Will it need a trap to prevent smells or is this not allowed? 2. Understood 3. Would thermostatic mixers for the bath count? I want to have the option of storing water at the max tank temp anyway so I'll insist if only to keep the basins safe. 4. Understood. I'll get him to insulate.

Hi All, The plumbers put in our UVC cylinder yesterday. I have raised a few things I spotted with the main contractor and he was getting in contact with the plumber. Could those of you with more experienced eyes please have a glance at my picture and let me know anything else that needs to be rectified. What I've noticed/questioned. 1. There is no tundish fitted and the over temp valve discharges via some 16mm pipework over a long distance to a hidden pipe into the main waste water system. 2. Does the tank require an overpressure valve on the cold feed? There is one on the cold main entering the house. 3. Does the tank require a thermostatic mixing valve? 4. Is it safe to have a switchable valve on the expansion vessel? Thanks in advance.

Be cautious of thermal stores as well combining your DHW and heating. You'll inevitably end up with complex, expensive system and the prospect of the UFH stealing all your bathwater. Using water to store heat isn't very efficient as it typically needs to be done at high temperatures and even the most pricey cylinders leak lots of energy. Your heating requirement also seems high. Is the house old and poorly insulated/draft-proofed/ventilated? This is your first point of call. I'd stick with an UVC for DHW. The larger the better, as a large cylinder will lose less energy than a smaller one for a given amount of energy stored. If you need to "bank" cheap overnight heat just dump it into the slab. With a slab thickness of 100mm you'll have about 20,000kg of concrete. This will store 5.5 Kwh for every degree you raise it's temperature. If you had a large 500L buffer tank you'd have to raise it's temperature by 10deg to get the same effect. This is dependant on decent insulation below your floor however. Search @TerryE blog to have a look as how to achieve this.

They were 150mm diameter acoustic silencers from BPC ventilation, 500mm long. I would recommend them for build quality and ease of installation but I can't comment on their efficacy as to sound attenuation, they seem to be working. Yes perforated inside as best I remember. They're pretty cheap also. https://www.bpcventilation.com/quiet-vent-semi-flexible-silencer-range I'm yet to see any evidence of it ever happening so as of yet I'm unconvinced it's anything more than a theoretical issue. If I was to build again I'd consider not bothering with a specialised terminal. One thing that I took some trouble over was fashioning the insulated ducting to run from the MVHR to the exterior. As you can see I taped the joints with airtightness tape to back up the internal seals. If you put your hands against these joins you can feel it's colder than the rest. I'm going to wrap more insulation over it when the builder is finished filling the holes in the plasterboard. I'd hate to see ducting being left insulated. It'd be a huge heat sink in a well insulated house.

For the look you hope to achieve I think you'll be disappointed if you don't change the roof covering too and while you're up there it'd be a shame not to re-insulate Could you post a dimentioned drawing of the facade along with a picture perpendicular to the front and I can try some ideas if I have the spare time.

We have one from Proair in Galway. No issues so far although it's not the prettiest of contraptions. https://www.proair.ie/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/1305-proair-fex-terminal-brochure.pdf I have my suspicions that you could probably put regular the terminals right next to each other but intakes and inlet staggered by a few cm and it'd be fine anyway. I intend to take off the cover and test out the theory some day if I get a chance. One of the greatest advantages is that you can have a minimum run of inlet and exhaust ducts inside the heated envelope. Here is a snap of ours from the inside during installiation. The two ducts on the RHS are for the external terminal. I reckon there's less than 1m of ducting run here in total.

Do you own the property or are you just feeling it out. Before going much further down the line I'd get the views of someone with the authority to analyse structure and see if its possible to salvage. Without knowing any more my gut is telling me that it's a non starter given the problems with the existing barn.

The building sounds like it would need a lot of work to take to a habitable standards. Your remaining internal space would be small, especially if you use block inner leaf. Where do you sit with planning permission, conservation status etc? Pictures or drawings might help.

More info needed about the current structure. What's it made from? How thick are the walls? Is it in good condition?

Internal leaf you mean? 215mm block on flat downstairs and 100mm upstairs. Talk to the precast floor suppliers. They'll let you know as it's dependant on ceiling height. I seems to remember something about 12 courses of 100mm block being OK for first floor with precast floors.

We have a 250mm blown bead cavity in SW Ireland. No issues with cracking due to the beads but as the cavity is wider and less stable than standard you may get more settlement cracks. As mentioned above most installs are only compliant with plastered external leafs so you may need to change your brick. Here is a list of approved operators. As usual the key is avoiding the cowboys. https://www.nsai.ie/search/insulation/eyJyZXN1bHRfcGFnZSI6InNlYXJjaFwvaW5zdWxhdGlvblwvIiwia2V5d29yZHMiOiJCZWFkIn0/

Avoid the white one. The blue one is fine but beware of the low flow rates of smaller sizes. (Noise) In essence a duct should be non collapsible. This includes the ducts on the intake exhaust (Outside) side of the MVHR.

Proceed with care or you could end up with a worse building than what you started with. Fundamentally you want to prevent anything getting wet or even worse wet and cold because it will fall apart in shortish order Internal insulation is making the structure cold and unless you install a perfect vapour barrier (almost impossible on a retrofit) it'll get damp. Ideally external insulation would be the best but if you can't do that a considered later of breathable insulation between the studs (woodfiber being one) covered by a breathable layer of lime plaster and breathable lime paint will keep you warm and preserve the house for future generations.

No issue so long as it's specced correctly. They are easy to DIY and eliminate cross talk. Just avoid this style of flexible ducting.

It's not difficult, just take your time. After various experimentation with a beesmoker, Joss sticks, talc etc I found the easiest way was the back of your hand for the larger leaks, it's surprisingly sensitive. Then I shoved a long candle into a piece of conduit for the minute pinholes. This was remarkably accurate at finding weak spots with the added advantage you don't have to do any climbing or bending down No special equipment, some on here have DIY'd manometers but it's not easy to make an accurate one The guy with the blower door did the proper measurements Are your joists built in already?