Canski

Given the quality of the brickwork was it the same builder who filled your cavity with all the left over materials on site ? Just how high above ground level was the cavity filled ?

I can’t see any harm in using them on the basement ceiling as long as you have fitted the flexi insulation between the joists. This was the design for our integral garage to insulate the room above. Works well here. For other rooms it seems like a waste of effort as there is no need to provide a thermal break between gf and upper floors. External cold walls maybe but not ceilings. or for your not yet built garden room ?

It may not be there but it is known where it will be. It is quite normal for heights to be worked out from FFL either upwards or downwards.

Just as I explained previously.

No. Concrete or uninsulated steel there.

Rather than re invent the wheel why not stick to tried and tested routes. I'm pretty sure that the 50 mm of concrete is a structural topping. There are other insulated beam and block systems on the same website. I used these on my 2 builds without any problems. Well that was until Stevie Wonder arrived to pump the structural topping.

Does it fit cavity bats ? 😂

https://www.litecast.co.uk/products/robust-upper-floors/

During my 8 years over in sausage side we used to get this problem on a weekly basis. Why oh why do they not remedy the problem at the design stage so it can be built as per the design ? A bit like imperial window sizes in metric builds. 🤯

Did you have a Topo survey.

maybe lower the finished height of the structural slab and put your heating pipes and screed on top ?

Usually from finished floor level ( FFL)

only if it is supported from below i.e. sleeper wall. Unless your SE calcs and passes it. There is a lot of load in a 100 mm concrete wall and it sounds like it hasn't been allowed for when they designed the beams. How about stud ?

I'd fill that with gravel ( more granular shaped than round) now sloping down to the house but with a roll of DPC against the wall up to the house DPC. It's not the best job but maybe the least disruptive way out of this. You are correct he should have known better

Put a temporary timber prop under the lintel ( I use 4 X 1 ) and the same length as the opening in line with the blockwork each side. Then prop it each side from below, if the opening is longer than 1500 mm you may need extra props in the middle. Lay your course of blocks on top of this and leave it until the mortar has almost set (overnight is ok). Do not go any higher than one course over the lintel. The next day you can remove the props and scrape back any excess mortar from the toe of the lintel. If it’s still soft put the prop back in and continue.

Just the same as that white Cavity Therm T@G shite.

Mine is at £1444 m2 for 2 x 190m2 plus a 20m2 garden office. Brick and block with full fill insulation 😛 Includes everything except the land purchase costs. (includes the £14 k estimated section 106) I did a hell of a lot of the work myself.

I think the one I spoke to last week uses zoopla and a car phone. He Couldn’t be arsed to look at a property to value it.

Beware of Batman. He can be the cause of long delays and much expense.

In my experience ……It will be on the last stretch of foundation that you pull prior to concreting. Your heart and wallet will fall into it when you find it. Save a couple off the old bottles that you excavate it down to a very deep depth. They will remind you of your discovery for years to come. Back up your first load of concrete and watch it disappear.

@ruggers yes fig 26 is your friend in this case. Due to the gap between the PIR and the brickwork any water would run down the inside face and find its way out of your weep vents providing they are kept clear ( good luck with that) I see no need to form a slope.

When you have cambers in the beams the screed would be very thin at the high points. What is your reason for wanting to do this ?

Done and I agree with other comments about eco features.

We usually aim to have the top of the beams level in this situation unless one part of it is an attached garage where the floor level needs to be reduced. Even if the rest of the foundation is in blocks there are always concrete coursing bricks that you can use to reduce the level of the walls below beam and block. However this needs thinking about at the design stage. If you have two different depths of beams bearing on a 100mm wall you will need to increase the width of the wall to 215 mm to allow you to split the beams.

I can’t identify the brick and I think you would be better going to a merchant that offers a free brick matching service. However the brickwork in the photo is known as RAF brickwork.