Canski

What are you asking for ? I have no clue either. I’d just put a 145 x 100 mm prestressed lintel in. If you want to over egg it go for 2.1 m long instead of the min 1.8. Is the blockwork going to be rendered or timber clad ? I’ve had many a discussion with the NHBC about the need for cavity trays and weep vents with walls that are faced with waterproof render especially when using a PC lintel to the outer skin. If you put a tray in then your weep holes end up 150 mm above the top of your opening. Not pretty things these weep vents. NHBC are 50/50 on the need for cavity trays in this situation.

Your bricklayer knows from experience that a 65 mm will deflect over that span especially with a ‘wet’ load. Either prop a 65 mm lintel in the middle while they build over it and then let the first course set before continuing or spend the extra £’s and use a 145 mm lintel with no propping.

I just use the battery for mine. I have a spare that is always charged. It’s a 5 second job to swap them over once you have dropped and lost the fiddly little security screw.

Egger protect is what I used. They claim you can tile directly to it which is what I did without any problems.

Good luck to them😂😂. The hire should be included in their price.

Who hired it in ? You or the contractor ? I see unused hired in plant on site all the time. Such a waste.

I planned a garden office from the start and built it in sections inside the old house while we waited for the invisible bats to disappear. Once we got the go ahead out it came and was plonked on to the ready made base. We the. attached a temporary toilet to the side. It was a God send. The saving in hire charges was significant and all the lads used it and kept it clean. Far better and cheaper than chemical toilets.

How about a vertical RSJ against the existing wall with a pillar built around it to conceal it ? I had similar a few years ago when the groundworker cocked up with the foundations that were sliding downhill into a ditch.

Hi all, This is a only a temporary solution until my heat pump is completely installed. I'd like to install some way of controlling the timing of the immersion heater independent of the heat pump. I was thinking something similar to my Taco smart plug that I use to heat my garden office with a 2kw electric heater that is timed to come on and off as I need it and also using alexa. I realise that they need to be capable of 3 kw for the immersion but they are only rated to 2990 . What are my options or would they be ok ?

You can do all this then put a 3m wide uninsulated garage door in it. The rest seems to defeat the object of the exercise then. If the long term plan involves closing up the door opening then its worth it. Otherwise I personally don't see the point.

They usually do go down to the foundation and are painted with RIW up to DPC level. In this case the foundation will need extending to accommodate the new steelwork. I recently worked on a renovation and they had about 6 of these.

Without lifting the lid you don’t know what’s below. It will expose your options or lack of them. The lid could possibly be reduced in size and/or rotated/ moved.

I see your problem. Have you listed the lid to see what you have inside ?

And spoil my lovely brickwork 😂😂

I have some ‘bandstands’ and boards left from my build for sale if you want some. In Evesham for collection.

Requirement 3. Our warranty provider also requested this. It has taken me a year to get this off the roofer. It is site specific so not a thing that is covered by the roofer. This is in case the roofer goes bust and can’t honour his guarantee.

and what is the cost of the door replacement ?

youre welcome. Roof on ?

No technical info from me but … we used sound bloc plasterboard to each side and rock wool insulation between the studs and don’t hear anything through the walls except light switches

I didn’t have to get a SE to do mine. Just dug and got it approved by LBC and my private warranty company.

100 mm ?

I thought I had a photo but no. I’ll get one tomorrow. A quick sketch ( road to the bottom) red arrows indicate the fall

I have a plan. Am I thinking this through correctly ? Particularly the drainage bit. Im not sure what to use. All the other drives in the road have a road type gulley into the tarmac drives and none have channel drainage across the threshold.. All of a sudden I need to block pave my driveways. I need to leave a temporary boarder of about 450 mm between the footpath and the start of the driveway. This is because the pavement and its edgings will (hopefully) be replaced in 2026 when I get the dropped kerbs installed. With this in mind I wanted to install a new bull nosed edging approx 450 mm away to retain the new driveway. This would be temporarily infilled with MOT until a later date. The pavers would then be laid to the lower edge of the bullnose to assist guiding the rainwater from the drive into a road type gulley at the lower end of the 2 driveways. I wanted to connect this to the new (existing) storm drain on our land that then runs to the road then to a large attenuation pond system before heading down into the Avon. It's complicated ( as always) I now can't get the dropped kerbs installed to the pavement until 2026 at the earliest. The length of pavement has just been repaired and re surfaced ready for us to dig it all back out again. This was done by the developer that we bought the plot off so that they can start to try to get the roads and pavements adopted by the council. We offered to pay them the going rate for the final dropped kerbs to be installed while they did this work but they steamed on regardless and replaced like for like. There is now a 12 month maintenance period before we can request the council to provide the dropped kerbs. When the new design installed the edgings to the pavement will need to be removed and replaced to adhere to the council spec. at this point I plan to infill the void with granite sets. We have one dropped kerb for 2 properties which we can manage with for now.

A day or two. Just make sure that the mortar bed has gone hard before removing. Also make sure it is properly packed in with a full bed below the padstone.

They will need changing to the spec given by the SE. Don’t let it stop you putting the roof on though. They can be changed afterwards.