kommando

EDF have been strong armed to keep French Electricity consumer prices low, they are forced to sell at a loss to internal competitors. Next step is to renationalise EDF to ensure this continues without EDF going bust. So EDF will not be selling to the UK and leaving France short.

Our water pressure can get low so went DHW as if the combi pressure was low we could not rely on using mains pressure to replenish pressure. Now the DHW is heated by solar diverted excess it's advantage is enhanced.

I was a purchasing manager during the previous material cost explosion in the early noughties due to China buying up all the materials to build all their infrastructure. The prices paid by our customers were fixed (automotive industry) and the material costs were exploding and we were piggy in the middle. I had fixed the steel prices for a year but the suppliers were increasing prices just after the ink was dry so I knew they would be back. The steel suppliers played cute and first asked for a small surcharge per tonne on all signed fixed price contracts. To keep us afloat I had to keep those steel prices fixed, first letter came in asking for £10 a tonne extra so I consulted the company lawyer. I was told by the lawyer not to agree in writing and hold out. A lot of sister companies in the same group agreed to pay the surcharge (did not consult the lawyer as the amount was so little), then when the huge increase came 8 weeks later the lawyer told all of us. If you paid the surcharge of £10 a tonne you are stuffed, pay all and any increases you are asked for until you can get a new contract. If you didn't pay the £10 then carry on refusing to pay and point out the terms of the contract are fixed price and no previous variation has been accepted so the original fixed price is valid. What the small variation in price did if paid was to remove the protection of the fixed price in the contract, it was not longer fixed as it had been varied by a small amount which then left the door ajar for later increases. I had 2 steel suppliers, I sent one bust with this strategy despite them being the better supplier as their staff drank at the same pubs. If it got out that I had paid one then the other would know. But it was either they went bust or we did and I got paid to keep the business viable not to be kind.

A ten year warranty is a manufacturer's warranty, max from a retailer is 2 years. So you are relying on Growatt hanging around and honouring their warranty which with all companies is a lottery. Bimble stock their Grid Tie inverters, try to see if they can get the non grid tie,

Rey website is a con Google reviews are all 1 Star Reviews Write a reviewAdd a photo "Avoid and don't fall for any of the cheap prices." "Awful, attempting to mug people off." "It's a con, item listed at £50, checkout directs to Amazon where product is £110" And sure enough you end up at https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KB2WGQS?tag=prostech03-21 at £499

In the settings you should be able to define the battery voltage below which the AC will stop so no draw on the battery and the battery voltage it will stop charging the batteries at so they don't overcharge. These cheap no name Chinese inverters are reviewed on Youtube, plenty of them go through how to fix them after they blow up typically within the first year. A better approach would be to go for one of the Chinese suppliers with a good reputation like Growatt. This is a US review but you can look for other UK/EU based ones.

Thanks, been hanging off looking for quotes on an Oak framed orangery for last 2 years, will start ringing around next week. In every boom the seeds of the next recession are sown, just have to be patient.

My solar diversion immersion is a 3KW Willis (developed in NI I believe), it pulls water in from the bottom of the tank via thermosyphon effect and put it back in at the middle. I have temp probes at the bottom feed pipe, exit from the Willis and at the 3/4 tank point so I know what is going on. With the Willis at full bore the water goes in at 20C and exits it at 58C. The 3/4 tank probe goes up during the day and somehow on a hot and sunny day ends up in the high 60c's with only the Willis heating the water.

I too would recommend the outside route, MPDE above ground will not suffer even during Winter and lead pipe ages and then leaks so getting rid of much as you can future proofs as well as being safer. But if you do go inside make sure there are no joints ie single run of MDPE and keep a stop cock in the old position and the new, so if there is a leak you can isolate sections to see where it is.

The more length that is revealed the more slack you will have.

So assuming the retired surveyor is not the neighbour who does not live there and the BT line is furthest away from the retired surveyors buildings then go for the BT line route. Its marked as 300mm deep so easy to find as it will be even shallower and just reveal it and lay to one side and then finish the trench to the depth you want. Lay in the new services, partly cover and then put the BT back in but to one side.

Openreach have this power but enforcing it takes time and lawyers court fees etc, 3 days work on an alternative route was probably cheaper.

The local farmer cut my BT copper line when clearing drainage ditches, the line is 4 to 6 inches deep, so well above BT minimum depth, a bottle of whisky to the BT repair guy and it was reported as a line fault with nothing to pay.

That's been my experience, the existing plans are mince and cannot be trusted. I also have never cut anything I have found by a combination of a bucket with dull edge and no teeth, a good spotter stood by the side of the hole and using a spade and not the digger when an evidence of a service makes itself known to check what it really is. Give the neighbour the current plans, have you contractor confirm his best digger operator plus an extra set of eyes will do the job and plan in advance how to get the services reinstated as fast as possible. So when digging near a water main I had a full 1000l IBC with a pump ready to feed the house, knew where all the stop cocks were and had all the keys to operate then to hand.

The way to have your cake and eat it, ie adding batteries is a Fasttrack G99 application which is detailed here. https://www.northernpowergrid.com/fast-track-electricity-storage-applications is the combined capacity of your generation and electricity storage devices less than 32A per phase? As they look at the total generating power eg inverters plus battery power then I doubt you can get away with 3.6kw of inverters plus some battery power even if its on a single 16A circuit.

The French house consumption meters are way more sensitive than UK meters to the burst diversion technique, so it does not work with them as the toing and froing of electricity within the bucket is seen by French meters as consumption, in the UK it is not. For the MK2 PVrouter there is new software released for French users which gets round the problem. These are the changes, I will be trying it out as I have a secondary import/export meter installed to check for any export leakage and that is showing a 15W or 0.015kwh export when the MK2 PVrouter is diverting excess to the immersion element. If after installing this program it still shows 15W export then I have some other tricks to try which will be looking at the calibration of the CT clamp. Release notes for the change November 2019: updated to Mk2_fasterControl_1 with these changes: * - Half way through each mains cycle, a prediction is made of the likely energy level at the * end of the cycle. That predicted value allows the triac to be switched at the +ve going * zero-crossing point rather than waiting for a further 10 ms. These changes allow for * faster switching of the load. * - The range of the energy bucket has been reduced to one tenth of its former value. This * allows the unit's operation to commence more rapidly whenever surplus power is available.

5% phosphoric acid solution will remove the rust stains and change any iron/steel particles to iron phosphate, so stopping the stains from reappearing. Apply using a nylon scouring pad, polish after with chrome polish if the dulling from the nylon grates.

I looked online and then looked for independent reviews and then went local after reading the reviews. Too many cases of the wrong sizes turning up and no replacements.

Found one dated 2020 so verticals 3 years old at this point and top just put on, looking closely I had topped up the 2nd from right, column farthest right edges are fading but only the coating.

Goggle images is good for this but I drew a blank on what it is called, can only think its called trolley or door carrier if its the part with wheels. You need as Simon suggests start with name of manufacturer and then look for spares supplies who stock their parts.

Worked for me but they are east facing only and I am on the west coast of Scotland so they are relatively sheltered except for the morning sun. The wood has not faded but the Osmo will need another coat in the next couple of years which will be 7 years after the 2 coats. Its oak cladding on a triple bay garage, I used stainless nails so there is no staining from rusting nails. Will post pics later this week, one just after and a as they are now.

In legal terms a court letter is deemed delivered next working day if a First Class postage was used and proof of postage was obtained from the Post Office counter (a free service). So what's good for a court is good for a member of the public or a solicitor. Picked that up from helping people fight parking speculative invoices.

The diverter I use is a DIY build from a kit called a MK2 Diverter. I uses 2 CT clamps, one on the input to the meter and uses this to diverter any excess to a 3KW immersion heater and a second CT on the feed wire to the immersion heater to record the excess it sends to the immersion heater. It can handle up to 6kw so you can add a second immersion heater and the whole kit is controlled by a Arduino chip. So it can be reprogrammed to a different diversion strategy as long as you can keep to 2CT clamps. Here are the list of programs already available. https://mk2pvrouter.co.uk/downloads.html I have never used mine for anything other than the standard setup ie feeding a second immersion heater fed from the bottom of the hot water tank so its unlikely ever to trip the thermostat to stop it heating water. However I did read a thread recently which may include the answer to your need. https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/arduino-based-mk2-pv-diverter-being-resurrected/11713/2 To quote from the thread The user whom I helped had just two systems - I think battery and water heating, and his problem was the two systems oscillated, stealing power from each other alternately. I suggested that he ran the wire feeding his immersion heater backwards through the grid c.t. of the other system, so its current in the main cable was cancelled out. So it knew nothing about the immersion heater, while the immersion PV system saw the battery charger as part of the normal house load, which automatically had priority. That solved the problem.

3 years ago I DIY fitted a replacement oil boiler as the original 15 year old one had sprung a leak. The new one was a Hounsfield boiler, its condensing and the pipework was £20 over what came with the boiler, the oil pump on the burner is self priming so I could get rid of the Tiger loop I had before. I also reconfigured the flue from vertical to horizontal, this was the hardest bit as I had to drill through 2 ft granite wall with a rubble filled centre, get the hole done and then spend the next day feeding the flue through a hole that keeps changing size as the rubble moves around . As for fossil fuel the burner is already burning HVO at Hounsfield under test with just some setting changes. Total cost was £2000 including 2 160mm diameter diamond tipped boring heads, wore the first one out completely.

I sized my roof ladder so it sticks out beyond the roof by 2 feet or so, the angle of the ground ladder means the top will be enough in over the roof for a safe pass even using a standoff. You can position the standoff on a lower rung so the ladder only just misses the guttering. On the roof ladder I wrapped the bars that rest on the slates with pipe insulation to reduce risk of snapped slates as your weight does get concentrated on the one closest to you as you move up and down the ladder,