Benpointer

Cheers. I'm going to rely on the triple-glazing to keep me asleep... and my wife manages to sleep through my snoring, so she'll be fine too 😉

Sorry, by 'fully closed' do you mean down and shutting out the light?

Regarding Seconds and co, they advertise their PIR boards as being 70/80mm or 90/100mm but I want 100mm, not 90mm nor do I want a mixture of 90 and 100mm. How do I know what I'm going to get?

Thanks on both counts. Got it! Were we live the rainwater is pretty clear and not at all grey but I was not planning on pushing it through the STP. Thanks for the clarification.

Wait, does the grey water need separating from the sewage for a STP? No mention of that in the Klargester Biotec installation instructions. https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/files/pdf/2698_1014179-03-biotec-2--3-installation-manual.pdf

This is exactly what we are aiming to do, and I have a good plumber in a similar position. Is there a hint in there somewhere? Just need an MCS umbrella scheme to cover the Panasonic... ('cos: £7500 innit)

I just used Midsummer Wholesale Heat Pump Kit Builder (Samsung 8kW + UK cylinders 300l tank, + fittings = £6657) and the Underfloor heating store (180m2 kit - £3486) to get a rough price, then added a generous amount (too much probably) for labour. Take your point though - should be able to get it much cheaper.

Brilliant thanks - looks like just what I need. I've already called Cool Energy and they are sending me through details. Build Hub comes up trumps once again! (Can I still use the word trump?)

...that is the question. Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous profiteering from an MCS registered company, Or simply buy the ASHP and UFH kit myself for our self-build, and have my local trusted but non-MCS plumber install it? Quotes so far from a couple of local MCS registered companies for an 8kW ASHP, 300l cylinder and 170 m2 UFH pipes, manifold and controls are: £16k or £20k... those are after the deduction of the £7500 grant. Or with my local plumber I could buy the kit myself and have installed for £14k, no grant. (It would be nice if I could find an MCS person to check and sign it off for a share of the £7,500 grant.) Regarding cooling, I had this classic suggestion from the £20k company who clearly don't understand the basics of physics: "A simpler approach might be to install marble worktops and insulate the room to minimise unwanted temperate gains". Who'd a thunk it, all you need is some stone worktops, what a marbleous suggestion!

As per the title: Klargester BioTec+ 2 and Clearwater BioAir CW2 - are these the same unit just badge engineered? I am struggling to spot the difference tbh. https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/klargester-biotec-2-sewage-treatment-plant-6-person/ https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/clearwater-bioair-cw2-sewage-treatment-plant-6-person/ Anyone know?

Fair point but we have zero interest in ever doing that so will leave it to those who follow to worry about. It's 170m2 house, which is plenty for us.

I am struggling to understand how the 'coefficient of friction between the die and the workpiece' is going to affect my foundations... I an only conclude that Yr Afin a L1/2

@SteamyTea These days when Elton comes round ours for a cuppa he doesn't do so much jumping up and down on the piano.

Ok thanks for all the replies, especialliy Gus's - very imformative. So... We are not engaging an SE for the foundations because neither our architect not our groundworker think it necessary; the ground is pure, solid, Kimmeridge clay (for hundreds of metres down). We have one nearby oak tree, 15m high, with 10.2m radius root protection area, and the tree is 14m from the nearest edge of our foundations. So I am thinking we can use the NHBC foundation tables (https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/4-foundations/4-2-building-near-trees/4-2-13-foundation-depth-tables/) which gives 1.75m depth in the corner closest to the tree, reducing to 1.0m deep once we get 20m away from the tree. Hopefully the BCO will agree.

Hi all, I have this from our TF co's designers, which will presumably dictate the foundation depths. Can anyone help me decipher it? I don't absolutely need to know but as part of our self-build journey, I'd like to understand it if at all possible. Presumably "15/5" "12.5/5" etc. means something important but what? I assume the loadings are all quite light, at it's a single storey TF construction clad in a combination of timber and render/cement panels. Thanks in advance for enlightening me! 1829 - 01 Frog Lane-LP.pdf

I would, I will... just as soon as the council's legal team get their finger out and send our solicitors a version to sign. (We already lodged the £1k racketeering charge legal fee with them.)

I would but... that would probably cause a few more week's delay and every week is costing me c. £500.

Yes, you're absolutely right - my mistake. That's why I'd never make a successful lawyer! And yes we will make sure to satisfy this before we start work - thanks! Since there is no CIL in our part of Dorset it would have been much better for us to opt for the non self-build route and have a BNG report done. But this was not a requirement when the application went in - the goalposts have been moved. To change course now would inevitably cost us many weeks delay. Feeling very aggrieved but we not going to kick up a fuss because we just want to get the PP signed off as quickly as possible. 😡

Update: we now have a draft Deed from the Council's legal team, which I attach if anyone is interested. Several things jump out to my non-legal eye: There appears to be no 'get-out' for exceptional circumstances - we appear to have to continue to live in the house even if we die or it is demolished by a meteor or similar. No mention of the sanction if we default. I can't actually see what is to stop us selling the house before it is occupied and putting the buyer's name(s) in as occupiers under schedule b. Anyway, we're probably just going to sign it and cough-up the £1000 in council legal fees for this marvellous contract. self build unilateral undertaking - redacted.doc

Hi all, We have a timber frame shed on our site approximately 9m x 4.5m, which I would plan to retain for a workshop. The shed needs a bit of TCL. It needs re-cladding and an new roof finish put on, and ideal insulation adding within the walls when the cladding comes off (it's plastered inside and the plasterboard is mainly fine). My main concern is the floor which appears to be crushed type 1, about 25-50mm ventilated gap, then 6x2s spanning across 2.4m or so from block walls, with a sleeper wall running down the spine of the building. On top of the joists (which appear sound) is 18mm ply, nailed down. In one are the wall plate has rotted our due to soil being piled up outside but we're hope the rest of the wall plate and the frame itself is ok. There are plenty of ventilation holes drilled in the walls below the floor. I was planning to rip the floor out input in an isolated slab but... costs and the TPO are putting me off that idea. The issue is I have some heavy woodworking machines including a planer thicknesses that weights 220kg. Assuming the ply is sound will the floor be ok for a workshop or should I strengthen it? Also any insulation option or should I just live with a cold floor? (the ply is pasloded down so will be a right pita to lift). Here are a couple of pics of the floor structure. Thanks!

Yep, he's done a comprehensive review for our build, identified one issue, and given us two options to address it. And we have a report we can wave at HSE, BC, and potential insurers.

I used Grant Barker http:// www.grantbarker.co.uk Happy with what he has done for us.

We haven't seen the S106 yet but I am expecting it to stipulate that we must live in the house for at least 3 years after completion, presumably for some get-out clause in the event of the death or serious illness of one of us. I will post on here as soon as we see it. We intend to sign it if at all possible. Had we known we would have to do so at the time we applied, we might have opted for a BNG. Rather aggrieved that the goalposts were moved after our application went - I suspect that is challengeable in the courts but... delays are the very last thing we want.

Update: The Council's legal department have been in contact with our solicitors. They state that: "I understand that _____________________ are looking to take advantage of the self-build exemption from the Biodiversity Net Gain (BNG) regulations. I have been asked to put in place the paperwork to secure the necessary planning obligations. Please note that that the Council have a standard Section 106 Agreement for this purpose and amendments will only be accepted on a site-specific basis. I would be grateful if you could forward your clients evidence of title to the application site so that I can produce a draft for your comments and approval. Your clients will be responsible for the Council’s legal fees in this matter for which I anticipate being in the region of £1000 (no VAT). I should be grateful to receive your undertaking to pay these fees, either on completion or within two months of written demand. The undertaking should apply irrespective of whether the matter proceeds to completion. I reserve the right to increase my fees should the matter become protracted or more complex. Thank you and I look forward to hearing from you.“ So, to unpack that: it's a standard template that we can't change and they are going to rinse us for £1000 to put our names and the site address into that template. The words 'robbery' and 'daylight' spring to mind.

I'm no expert but I'd have thought the main living area is the obvious place. We're currently in a rather drafty rented place that is impossible to keep at a sensible temperature - it's either too hot or too cold. It's got oil-fired CH with rads in every room. The boiler/pump is controlled by a single wireless thermostat that you can move to wherever you like. This suggests two things to me: I am not convinced a single thermostat controlling a whole house or most of a house is a good thing. If you're going to have one and can't decide where to place it, how about a mobile wireless stat, then you can decide where it works best in practice?