Nickfromwales

Also, the FCU is entirely permissible, and then you could add as many sockets after it as you liked. Caveat is, after you’ve pulled more than 13a you’re on borrowed current and will eventually pop the fuse in the FCU. Ideal solution if you’re adding lots of sockets in a bedroom which will only have a hair drier, tv, lamps, pc etc, so run that radially off a FCU off the ring (which can still be a spur).

Not afaik. C is the ring, so C1 is a single radial spur, and C2 is a single radial spur, each from the ring. Technically this is fine and the terminals in the back of a socket are designed to take 3x 4mm2 or 4x 2.5mm2 also. As an apprentice electrician the instructor took great pleasure in seeing if anyone had cut strands out of the 3x 4mm2’s when we had tasks to do 4mm radials with multiple spurs. Trick was not to twist the strands, which you learned quickly. C1 and C2 off C is a go afaic, no problems there whatsoever, but obvs opening the ring for at least one of these would be the better job. Good news these days is there are usually no 3kw electric fires with 13a plugs on them any more.

Oh, and if drilling steels overhead, get some comfortable eye protection and keep them on all the time. Worse thing to catch you out is the wind blowing the swarf off flat surfaces, after you’ve drilled, but are still loitering about.

Yup. Buy some good HSS bits from a fixings supplier and you can get them 120-150mm long so you can go through the wood and steel whilst all in situ. If @nod and I could make our lives easier by using a nail gun, with that being in a commercial setting, then we would….. With 25mm batters etc this could be considered, if the timber is 2” thick or thereabouts then you’re just going to struggle; a) to keep the gun perfectly square to get the full energy from the bang to go nail>steel, and b) to get the wood and the steel pulled together. Also you’ll only get one chance of doing each fixing perfectly well. 12mm is a lot of steel. 44mm is a lot of wood. I wish you luck with either option, not being obtuse.

You can have the steels modified before installation, to create holes and/or letterboxes for MVHR and small bore services to go through. You can do a surprising amount of this, as a good SE will specify welded plating to fortify if needed, to put the strength back in. You can also strategise how the steel is installed, eg by having a 100x100mm or even just a 75x75mm box section post somewhere alone it’s span, going down through a GF wall to founds, you can further expand your options for chopping into the steel. Plenty of options here, if you get a professional who finds solutions vs problems.

Do you have a section drawing of that junction?

1m is plenty tbh, as the temp of the water won't change much at all whether it's out of the boiler connection/1m away/1.5m away etc. The biggest factor is what is written on the side of the pipe; (x)bar at (x)temp, and most modern boilers will shut off at 85oC. You can go into some installer-level settings and reduce this max temp to say 70oC, to reduce the issue quite significantly, but not with all boilers so choose well.

Give @craig a PM and he will point you in the right direction

What you're proposing is permissible, just needs a good eye for making the connections in to the socket that will have 4x2.5mm2 cables in it. No need for the FCU as you can spur off a ring with 1x 1G 13a socket, or 1x2G 13a socket, or 1x 13a FCU feeding whatever, and the only time you need an FCU here is if you planned to take more than 1x the above from the ring. Is it ideal, no, should you expand the ring main, yes, so the question would be; if you can get single cables to these extra outlets then why not run two and make it one big ring? You'd just Wago the cables in the back-boxes and open the ring up, quite simple to do and you can ask questions here if you need support. If you're as much as 10% weary of what you're doing then give the job to a sparky. Just do the chases yourself in advance, install the back-boxes, and ask for them to just run cables and connect. A one day visit most prob so budget £250-300 for labour and consumables if you do the "donkey work"

You need to have balls of steel to go using one of these. I was fitting aircraft seating from a 737 into the resin coated steel deck on a P&O Challenger inspired ferry conversion, 1" thick mild steel + ~20mm of stone resin 'self leveller', and every time I squeezed the trigger I considered if my will was properly in order. Sell it. Go buy these type of things and live long time. https://www.toolstation.com/techfast-heavy-duty-self-drilling-torx-roof-screw/p96795

Star generation put paid to that anyways lol. N/E....Tomayto/tomato.

All the odd shorts-wearing NICEIC electricians (in obligatory overpriced VW Transporters with aftermarket alloy wheels) will hunt you down and make you eat those words. Quite strange standards with these lot, considering not one of them will pick up all the cable clippings etc after them. I guess living at home with mum places this type of thing well above them, but they do hate getting dirty tbf.

This is just folding a membrane, needs no flashy name?

You'd be shot on sight mate. Black is earth these days, grey in neutral. I made the same mistake on a job and had my lead electrician losing sleep; I had to grant him permission to go around and undo my "mistakes" so he could stop from shaking.

I've looked at this a few times before commenting further. This just needs some strategic use of AVCL membrane, a bit of DIY OCD, some tape, and then some of this LINK if you want to go bat-shit-crazy. The foam spray will get you insulated between the metal webs and across the inside face of the rim board, (you just cannot get insulation into these spaces without punishing yourself unnecessarily, and probably will be a reasonably crap job in comparison), and then you only need to friction fit some rigid rockwool batts to fill the voids between posi's up tight against the rim board. The place this will likely fall down is when the joists are installed against the membrane that needs to be laid flat on the upper surface of the GF walls, as if it is 'moved about' excessively or dragged on the membrane it is likely to damage it. If this can be managed on site then the issue seems to be moot, but we must make allowances for real life and 3rd party lacking of understanding, education (or GAF) I suppose! Easier route maybe is to install the requisite apron of AVCL in anticipation of the joist going in, and then simply add an additional sacrificial layer atop, required length x width, folded over so it's double thick, to act as protection for the functional AVCL. Perhaps simply adding a couple of strips of AT tape at each joist location could suffice here. That tape is pretty damn robust stuff tbf. Once the upper deck and rim board(s) have found their final resting place, I would take the same approach from the top down; joining of the layer(s) would happen with AT tape at the outer face of the rim board, immediately prior to fixing the external sheathing boards and breathable membrane. Tony's trays in a masonry wall = no brainer, great methodology, but for TF the installer can have pretty much any forename imho. Oh, and if I ever see anyone suggesting that airtightness can be fortified by using mastic sealant at the skirting boards, I will completely lose it. WTF!?? Utter horse manure, served in a satchel made from tripe.

I forgot this was a timber frame. 😵‍💫 Tony’s trays aren’t needed in this instance? If so, why? @G and J?

As long as you pull long radius bends then defo a winner. I’ve used 16mm pert-al UFH pipe to send temp sensors down, buried in the screed etc, and works a treat. If you can get a fish wire up it, then the fibre will zoom through.

Bigger box helps, as it’s just punishing to struggle with a smaller box with everything in such close proximity. Also gives you the option to add to it later without losing too much more hair.

Yup. I use it a lot. Closed cell (unlike the knee jerk foams from the builders sheds), doesn’t bridge damp, and when it cures it’s very robust (unlike the shed foams which crumble like a bit of honeycomb). Every project I’m on is airtight, so I also use this for cable/pipe penetrations too, or any awkward junctions where tape or membrane is impractical to use. Just wondered if a squirt all round with this would negate installing Tony trays and membranes etc. Can’t really see, if injected properly, why this wouldn’t do the job. I assume the one benefit is to not have the ends of joists exposed inside the cavity, but not so sure that’s actually an issue. Me personally I’d just fit a wall plate and attach the joists to that vs making loads and loads of penetrations in my new walls.

WiFi’s getting better and better too. Very impressed by the WiFi7 Ubiquity WAPs I put in a clients build last year. 2 units gave excellent cover for a 320m2 build (MBC PH TF). 👌

Would the Illbruck 330FM foam not suffice here vs the Tony trays?

A bit like when you get caught looking on cat6hub? 😜

A bit late to start the 11 steps then. I can’t save them all lol.

No idea whatsoever. Sorry. Maybe patch in with regular bricks, and then do a thin coat render over it to make it look a little easier on the eyes? Not the prettiest of walls, do you want to invest time and money to make it look this way? My 2 cents, please don’t take offence.

No way josé. You’re just panicking now because you’ve been rumbled for hiding in the comms cupboard; after convincing the better half that without these things life will cease to exist. You’re a dead man if she ever reads this. Lol. I’m going to pm you with some institutes that can help you through these difficult times. Stay strong, you can make it back ok. We all believe in you, “go champ!” To clarify, the ONLY time this is justifiable, is when the wife is watching 90 day fiancé and hadn’t notice you standing in the (normally closed) doorway to the offending comms room, desperately trying to justify the massive time and money over investment in what…….just didn’t need doing whatsoever. Plug the god damned cat6’s into the switch. Ffs. With the time saved, go visit the coast and take some pics instead. That’s value. Patch panels in your home, = zero value. Just “No”. 👎.