Nickfromwales

I can put you in contact with a chap who provides multi-disciplinary trades to my company, based in Sheffield, if you want? He would know a good roofer most likely. PM me if you would like his contact details.

As we continue to preach here, you need a good foundation!

The wasp hitman, lol. Loving the artwork

That is a thing, but usually caused by the flush pipe not running downhill, eg it wasn't cut short enough so there is a trap of water that then sits in the horizontal bit between the bend and the pan. Agreed, and will be the decider. Don't forget that for this to be a true test you need the cistern full of water, so there's weight on the seal, so don't empty it and isolate the feed.

If propping from the underside, there would (should) be zero disruption to upstairs life. Sounds like you need folk who make solutions instead of problems....

130mm prep under the main tile sounds ok to me, but it's a complete unknown tbh as the underlaying ground will dictate if this should have been tiled over a concrete slab, or just whacked sub-base, or other. Laying the perimeter ribbon tile on to mud doesn't sound like it'll last one winter tbh.... I would have expected the sub base to extend out past the ribbon, by a good 200mm or more, and then a sand and cement haunch to be used to tie in with the same wet course of bed used to set the tiles in (so these were one wet mix vs two sat alongside each other). I think I'd be asking for this to be done again, peeling the turf back to do so, but it depends what you agreed or didn't agree with the landscapers.

Just meet the manufacturers installation criteria and you're good to go? Nothing stopping you at all. Standard 'flat' non-openers are simple and robust, but tbh you'll prob want at least 1 to be openable. Not sure how the light would travel through multiples of sloped units vs one big central lantern, but that's your choice of course. Also consider lighting plans and how this arrangement would affect that.

So few people get this..... IMHO excess (potential export) should go to an immersion via a suitable diversion controller so it can be fed in proportionately, if you don't have a battery. If you have a battery then the whole game changes, and using the HP (routinely and strategically) from self-generated electricity becomes a 'thing'. Batch heating an insulated raft foundation is best, done overnight and in pockets of off-peak TOU windows, but folk with thinner emitters (screed over insulation or rads) will suffer a bit less efficiency here due to near zero 'storage heating', such is life; you have to pay something for heating so this isn't exactly news. As far as DHW goes, I am an advocate of putting in a bigger cylinder so it can be heated from an HP at a cooler (better COP) flow temp, and still have huge additional heat energy capacity for when it's winter and the PV has go ta-ta. Then you can 'super' heat it via the immersion to say 75-80oC, once overnight, and then that will have enough to get you through the day (assuming at least one more off-peak window during the day, which you'd then use to top up again if so necessary). Advice for this will change according to the available tariffs of course, so it is quite difficult to plan to cover all eventualities as some are variables. Go large is the one that is the wisest choice, for future-proofing, AFAIC.

Make life simpler.....as once they're in and life has moved on you likely won't ever give 2 hoots whether they were 100mm either way . Too many people I work for seem to get lost in the minute detail, and forget they've a home to build and move in to; the sands in the hour glass don't stop either, and time is always money. Simplify, move forward, go to pub.

Purlin, or purlin struts have to sit on something that connects the roof to the founds? This is normal.

@LSB Spammers and hackers love personal details, please use the PM system for that Mods.

Ah, pyramid roof no gable end wall....? First pic I saw up top, I thought was a gable. Still doable with some steelwork or a bloody good chippy, assuming a dual cylinder platform could be formed to sit on the masonry wall. Depends on how badly you want the accumulator, as the minimum I'd recommend without pumps is a 300L. To be honest, these are the kinds of jobs I used to love doing, especially when someone told me it can't be done .

Just trying to work out if it's quicker, and easier, and a better job to prop the 1st floor up and just drop that wall so you can do the job properly?

Nope, that’s completely wrong information, sorry. UG stuff is near idiot proof and extremely robust, and as it’s not got UV getting to it has the resultant longevity. Plastic soil stacks rising externally have been fine for 30+ years in direct sunlight. Not sure where you’re getting your information from, but it’s duff. 🫤

Yup, just get the end as thin as possible, and use that as a ‘leader’. Otherwise you’ve the combined thickness of the whole cable dia, plus the thickness of the rod taped to its side.

Usually you just use insulating tape and bind the two together, or the rods are threaded ends and you have a hoof or eyelet accessory that you use to fix the loose strands of cable to. Best to strip some of the sheath back so there isn't a nasty shoulder that meets each turn, vs having the strands (parted cores) and the rods first, then the sheath etc 300mm further downstream to make pulling it in easier.

Ok, we'll ignore you lol. Sometimes with a tile like that centring the gadget over the tile can mean that you then end up with a skinny rip of tile in the corner or end of wall, so you favour the shower being centre, and the tile cut being whatever, depending on your level of OCD; freakish to stratospheric etc. That make sense, #strato-boy?

Can you tell is why that section is so wide? Is it an old fireplace? Or a cavity wall with a chunk of dot and dab etc? Props will only shift if they’re on something soft, and also if you’ve not used enough of them.

If PB and skim, you only need to deal with it (internally) for FR, unless otherwise specified by the BCO. You need to get some clarification here tbh. If they’re happy with the rest of it painted (external element) then happy days. If you need a structure to affix the alu cladding to, then another option would be 9 or 12mm cement board which would negate the paint (you’d have to check with BCO but they should be happy with that), as long as joints are sealed with FR mastic

There are options for 22mm chipboard routered out, or insulated panels routed out (for the pipes), so get some googling done and check the responses here for related content

Who invoiced you? Subby or OSO? If you want an accumulator you can bolt a frame to the brick wall and mount it on to that. Local steel stockist should be able to fab something for you with ease, and then just bolt in place. Entire weight supported by masonry; I usually do outriggers to rest on timbers too, to help out, but would need more pics and details to advise. That’s doable. If OSO billed you, they need to put it right and you should only be dealing with them; after they middle-man’d you out of your money. If you went to a local all the money would have gone on the job, not have got split between the guys and OSO……

Maybe a IR thermometer will help. If you start at ambient and run the water to recreate the issue, if cold (street temp) water mixes through that valve you’ll be able to watch the temp of the brass dripping all the way down. Grab one locally in Screwfix or cheaper on Amazon etc.

Is the steel exposed to the room? Or will you stick PB to it so you can paint cosmetically?

You are allowed “deviations”, so that may well be in check. We do all often jump too quickly to the pinnacle, but life is life, and 80mm will have to suffice if that’s all you have. At this stage id defo explore doing away with the screed as you do not “need” it. Then the entire build up can be insulation.

If a refurb or addition, folk don’t have the luxury. 100mm minimum if heated, 120-140 would be much better. @paro I’d ditch the screed here and beef up the insulation. Fit an overlay UFH system (see Wunda website, good vids/info there) and then bond your hardwood floor directly to that.