Nickfromwales

Hi. I would speak to a screw pile foundation provider, to see if this would be cheaper and simpler/quicker. If just an outbuilding, then you may be able to do away with needing any concrete at all.

Amen!

If you have a well insulated, airtight house, with MVHR, then the rooms will all try to get to the same temp, eg you'll be constantly fighting a losing battle. If the house in question is not the pinnacle of energy efficiency then you'll be fine having some rooms loitering around 19oC and others pushed up to 20.5oC for eg, but cool attracts heat, laws of physics, so a room that's cooler will be elevated by it's surrounding ambient. Not an exact science, and @JohnMo and I have very different views on thermostatic mixing valves, buffers, and the what-not, but there's nothing stopping us both being reasonably right. Take it all with a pinch of salt, is my 2 cents, there's a great bunch on here and every person who takes time to comment in their own time is simply trying to help and offer their opinion, no need to get rubbed up the wrong way as there are plenty of other forums you could join if you want to be subject to that type of nonsense, . The purpose of BH is for like-minded folk to share information, knowledge, and hands-on experience (from actually having already done it, so the facts are the facts). Sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride

It’s not a ventilated soffit, but the smoke etc will be evident on the brickwork, it looks like a bag of shit, and will majorly piss you and your neighbours off each time it’s lit from cold. If that went up next to my house, it would mysteriously vanish overnight.

You can switch it off, or just tape over the earth whilst you’re pulling this in, just so none of the dead conductors can touch. That includes preventing the neutral hitting an earth connection/tag. That’s doable if you want minimal disruption.

Neutral to earth got shorted. Unless you’re off an RCBO the phase to earth imbalance will trigger the earth protective device (30ma) but also will happen in the event of a neutral to earth ‘short’. An earth trip utilises a coil that is connected across L and N, and when in normal play the difference between those is zero. If you touch a live wire and start dumping some of that potential through your body, to earth, then the sum of that discharge is apparent across the L and N, so (roughly speaking) if you drew down >30ma then >30ma of current would flow through the coil. That would trigger the device so it ‘trips’. If you connect neutral to earth the floating potential in these cables (from EMF) does the opposite, and energises that coil, again causing a trip.

These are usually geared down to hell, so next to nothing for start up loads/shunt resistance. Was DC on the last few I installed (SELV).

Depends on how new it is. The LPG's use the same setup, just different jets iirc, so if a modern version then this should modulate; by how much would be down to the exact age/model, but modern WB modulate down quite low afaik.

Air-Haus.co.uk is the main one, afaic .com just redirected. Just cleared this up!!

They may have used insulation that's not UV tolerant/exterior grade.

Oh, I do apologise, I've been making a list for disaster management, but it's huge and I've not finished it yet. I'll double my efforts and get it to you by 08:00 lol. Just wondering if the posi's should be clad in a high-performance insulation where they protrude, as the cavity will be cold and the posi's are sticking their bare arses out into it?

This is the last Panasonic I fitted. Are you confusing a high temp split with refrigerant gas lines vs wet mono block A2W unit?

Eh? The HP has 1"1/4 unions on the back, so I fit 1"1/4 female unions > 35mm compression, with 35x28mm internal reducing sets or soldered reducers, and then 28mm pipe (minimum) to the plant room and UVC. Something very wrong there...??

Nope. You start at the CU (RCBO) and go to each socket one by one, a-la a daisy chain, and the last one on the line is where you terminate the run. I do all current rewires (new electrical installations) with all radials where possible, so each bedroom on its own 20a radial, study same, hall/stairs/landing/attic same, living/dining same, and then put obligatory rings in for kitchen/utility. Outside lights and outside sockets/power always on dedicated circuits so that nothing getting wet can shut off something inside the home. All in the same CU, in the same location, just more ways and more runs of cable. Pretty basic tbf.

You should be measuring the old unit, and then getting a direct replacement based of that.

@Silly Man Anything worse than <1.0 ACH and I'd not bother with MVHR for HR. It's just such slow airflow that the natural rates of infiltration may exceed the flow rates of the MVHR, so just an expensive ornament at that point, and one that'll be pumping cold air into living spaces and bedrooms all winter. Airtightness is #1 on the list, insulation comes after that AFAIC. You can have 1000mm of insulation, but in a draughty house it will still leave you feeling the cold with a big heating bill. Don't forget that if you decide to bite down hard on this subject, which I absolutely think you should, then you can talk to your doors and windows supplier to make sure they don't install trickle vents. If you can get the contractor to follow some basic methodology and build standards from the outset, then getting AeroBarrier involved will get you the AT result that you are possibly, currently thinking is out of reach. If you coordinate this well from Day 1 then you can achieve excellent results for very little extra £££.

AKA cable entry / stuffing glands. I use these exact same boxes on outdoorsy stuff, and like the fact the lids are click on / off. I always set the box in place, drill the fixings holes, and then remove. Then I apply a bit of CT1 to the holes and put the box back in place so the screws go through wet CT1 for belt & braces; even more so if the box is subject to driving rain. Apply just enough so that it gets displaced and comes through the fixing holes. You'll notice the 4 square tabs that are visible at the centre of each side. Ironically, these are drain holes, and you should punch out whichever one is the lowest point of the box, when mounted. This allows any water or moisture to escape in the event of some getting in there, howsoever. Basically so the box cannot slowly fill with water /moisture over time. I also seal 3 sides around with the same clear CT1, but never do the bottom edge, for the same reason so that any water that gets behind can run down and out.

Sacrificial, as it's part of the manufacturing process where the material is injected.

Great progress.

Expensive for what it is TBH. Check out Air-Haus.com for the price on a Brink 450 for comparison. I've been installing them for years, mostly on PH or thereabouts level projects (well insulated, very airtight (<0.6ach)) with excellent results. You'll have to pay for a design that's worth the paper it's on, but most will QS for a system based on a very rudimentary design (they keep possession of it) from your PP drawings, to provide an indicative quote, so you can get a yardstick. Some will only price design, supply, and fit, some design, supply and commission for eg. CVC in Oxford designed and supplied for all my jobs, and are knowledgeable and helpful.

Yup. 👍

No worries, just it’s a lot of money down the tubes potentially.

If it’s a smaller house they can look out of place, especially within eyesight of other 30” doors. In a bigger house the bigger doors are usually favoured as they look to be in perspective.

Hi. Have you explored options here for you to possibly become VAT exempt (zero rated) for your project?

+1. Smut hidden.