Nickfromwales

In isolation I’d use S&C for strength and longevity.

It could only be reported to the police as criminal damage. Council won’t do anything as it’s on private land, unless it’s hazardous. If it’s inert you’re on your own. How are they still there if you owe them no money??

Best to ring their customer support number and they can talk you through it. There’s not enough info here for us to help, as it could be a few different things, as it’s a wireless system.

Yes, they both can be on one run, up to 4 WC’s iirc. You can get a Y branch and a T branch, and this needs thought and planning. Ideally you’d have a Y branch with a 135° male to female bend in it, which then picks up WC 2, so the flushed water is already heading in the direction of flow. If you’re too tight for space to do this then you can use a T branch, but it should be lower than the outlet which is difficult to do with a standard, close-coupled WC. If you’re using framed units (like a geberit) then it’s really easy as the pipe centre for the WC outlet is much higher than the standard 7” centre of a regular UK WC. Best to get some fittings and see what will won’t work by doing some dry mock-ups. Are you using framed (floating) wall hung or regular WC’s? Using one of these at WC 2 would make life a lot easier for you.

You’ll be fine. Done plenty of bathrooms back to back like this on one stack and sometimes no SVP at all, just an AAV (air admittance valve) to ensure functionality. Green light from me, and I’ve been joining pipes together for 35 years.

Model number please!

I’m in complete agreement.

Agreed. But the insulation values wouldn’t pass grade either so all likely to be ‘off the radar’. Good point of course, and something further for the op to consider. But all soft furnishings are combustible in that room, and the XPS would be behind the skim, so if an open flame was removing the skim to get to XPS a) you’d not be alive to watch in reality, or b) would be standing outside waiting for the fire brigade.

Are you looking to get MCS / grant here?

I was going to say a roof, but you got one in before me you bugger, lol. 😂.

I’d ask the designer, first, and not make such assumptions, just saying. My comments were based on the information provided. Did you not read that these are ceilings at roof level? If this was a ceiling of the ground floor then it wouldn’t need insulation, but regarding fire regs I’m not sure this would be that much of a concern. Building control would confirm, but at these levels I’m sure they’re not calling the shots…. Afaic, the carpet would pose more of a threat to the preservation of life here.

This is nothing short of insanity. I can’t believe these people get paid more than me. I’m done.

Everbuild do a version of CT1 called “crystal clear” lol. We’re on the same page

Zero cutting of anything! Whoa! I am referring to setting the tray on the deck, with the CT / OB 1 under it, and then you pull the tray away from each wall of multi board by about 5mm, and then pump the gap full of CT1. You then push the tray back to the wall, displacing the excess CT1 and wipe the excess away (baby wipes, lots of them, are your friend here). Check for level, and leave to cure for 48hrs.

@ProDave squeezed one into his static, so I guess there’s a way

Yup. 👍

Ditch the plasterboard and use Marmox / Jacoboard / other (cheaper but just as good) XPS boards, and plaster over those. Then you have 30+15mm of insulation then just skim.

Ground floor one is sat on your slab, so zero issue there? Upstairs one can be sat on something like Compacfoam or Bosig, as the weight is at the centreline of the glass and frame, so around 100-150mm of ‘meat’ at the ICF core is already ample. Spread out over the core and the EPS means 400kg is lost across the surface area with complete ease. The detail in your above section shows this half over structure and half over EPS block, so you should have the same detail for the window openings afaic. I’ve never done / seen timber bolted into the ICF core for a window before.

Or to folk making a whole new home Who will then do £5k on worktops Value is in the eye of the beholder, so each to their own, ‘matey’

Plenty of options out there, these are what I suggested to the client for this particular project as they are far less conspicuous and the lighting plan doesn’t need anything competing with it for ceiling space / flow. £75 isn’t much money, and I only suggested these where they’re in the ‘eye line’.

Your detail there seems way OTT to me! Is that what your SE told you to do for a window?!

Levels of chlorine for a domestic pool are only a few notches up from drinking water tbh.

The image shows a deep recessed modular box which allows the lid to be shut with 2 items plugged in. You’re into 3 figures there I’d guess, as with these setups you buy a skeleton frame and then load in the modules as required.

HSE wouldn’t agree lol. 55v across for 110v supply, so a big jump to 230v and 🪦

Yes. And then you’d need the equivalent volume of incoming air available, via a transfer grille to outside, to allow that mode to be used effectively. The transfer grille can be a motorised damper which is used when the MVHR is in double extract mode, or otherwise it can remain closed to allow the MVHR to function in push / pull (normal) mode. What are your plans for space heating of the pool hall? Water usually sits at 30° or slightly above, so the pool hall will need to be higher than that to not make it feel cool or cold to bathers. UFH obvs not the best idea there. You need the garage and the pool hall to be two separate compartments, if using chlorine, and store the chlorine in an outside store and NOT in the garage.