Nickfromwales

The max lengths at 5m don't change from the weak output to the monster output ones so the laws of physics kick in here. High wattage and low voltage = big current. Divide the wattage by the voltage and you get your current.

You risk the voltage drop tbh. If you put one before the other then you'll most likely see the difference in the first and last led.

Yup. Digging first got mine out. Root system was unbelievable, and that was in made up ground with topsoil.

This one couldn't pull my hedgerow roots out. Wrapped a chain around the root balls and just watched it pull the digger over until the PTO alarm started wailing. If ithe stumps are 6" to 10" then you'll need a beast, I kid you not.

Nothing worse than the Indians running around without a chief.

I personally don't fit them. I don't like anything that spaces the pan any further off the wall than necessary. As far as actoustic isolation I'm not exactly sold on them as the noise of the flushing water in the pan is the only real noise / sound, and the fill valves are almost silent ( fit a flow restrictor where pressure is particularly high ) so I'd not bother with them. From my experience with them, they tend to stop the pan going back at a perfect 90o to the wall and the silicone line is then also much thicker than it needs be.

Yes, they're just little plastic pegs which slide in as upper and lower stops, and the pins click in so you have to purposely remove them.

Maybe an option to look at capping the max flow / floor temp to ensure it cannot ever be 'inadvertently' ramped up.

I'd tank quite a way beyond the 'tray' area too. . It's pennies for the tanking kit and the small ones usually do 5m2, with the larger doing 10m2. I'd get the bigger one and just give it all 3-4 coats ( or until the goop runs out basically ).

Oh yes......I forgot that was on Ebuild not here. My bad.

Another option ? Wont be cheap. The Fiora one I fitted last was £500 for a 1000x1000mm. If avoid the White / lighter colours too as the 'grain' seems to harbour the grot a bit. Not the end of the world tbh if it's cleaned after every use but certainly a point to consider if you have a life beyond the shower tray

It would be linoleum, mineral or vinyl tbh. On the pic I posted with the mosaic and the Amtico, I just took the tiles a bit further than I thought was necessary ( so the Impey former went in oversized too ). I can't help thinking that water and tiles are a good combination, for floors, but it may be worth asking if these resin floors can be used as they will be watertight, one assumes. We fitted a lot of resin based non slip flooring in showers aboard quite a few ships / MV's when I worked away and they worked well. They went over screeded steel decks though, so the subfloors were VERY robust / rigid. Best to ask the resin floors manufacturers tbh and likewise see what the options are for mineral / other too.

Sorry J, only just seeing this now. The flooring won't be problematic, it'll be more down to the type of adhesive, and if the floors were primered properly before the smoothing compound was laid. If these floors can withstand direct sunlight through glazing panels etc then a bit of Ufh should be fine. I really would only be concerned about possible smells from the adhesive, and then only if the floors are being run at an excessively high temp tbh. If the floors are screeded, rather than a reinforced slab, I'd make sure that expansion gaps at door thresholds etc were observed and that's about it.

Your neighbours must think you've lost the plot

Not to mention that in my neck of the woods they're not funded / subsidised any more. I've seen my apprentices through with funding, but I'm not paying them to become my competition. No ta.

"Hasn't my husband paid you?" and then when I ask him..... "my wife says she'll pay you, all you have to do is ask". Tossers

Am I the only one thinking "Peckham Spring" right now ?

You can tile 'over' it, but not to it . I'd not rely on it for expansion, but still fit the Ufh suppliers one after the PUR. At point it'll be soft, but over a few m's it'll be quite resilient imo so I'd fit both. On that pretence I'd prob go for 30mm + the Ufh exp skirt.

I believe PUR has slightly better value per mm so I'd go with 25 or 50mm of that.

Apologies for being late. I was looking at these the other day. May be an option.

Looks fine to me. Same low profile ( thin ) cable and doesn't look like it's two cold ends so go for it.

Repressurise and give it another 24hrs. There's a lot of pipes coming out of the slab, what's the method for pressure testing all those, and what are they all ?

The spray is a cleaner and a finisher. You can't lick your finger and wipe CT1 like you can with silicone, as this stuff works underwater too the multisolve is used AFTER preparatory cleaning of the surfaces has been done, and is basically there to remove contaminants that could stop the CT1 adhering properly ( and thus making the process a waste of time and money ). You'll also need the MS to clean up afterwards. It's a bloody handy spray which also removes cured silicone from tiles etc, and general cleaning where conventional cleaners won't shift it. DONT leave it on any surfaces as it soaks into silicone, for one, and dissolves it nicely. NOTE : The white CT1 goes custard yellow and looks terrible. Don't use it as a finish anywhere where it will be seen ! Use clear, wipe it all but completely off, as a sealant, and then go over the top with white silicone as a finisher The other colours are fine, grey, beige, black silver etc, as is the clear. The white sucks, but is still good for purpose.

3mm I'd go for as it's much easier to hide the siliconed joint for one, and it's much neater IMO for another. 5mm usually for floors but you could go for 4mm wall and floor if easier. Fwiw I usually tile with Rubi 2mm spacers for a clean sharp look. Iirc your mosaic tiles have a pre set grout line in them don't they?