Nickfromwales

Hi and welcome. It seems befriending a local farmer is the way to get a lot of muck shifted for not a huge amount of money One cleared the side of mine for less than the ( empty ) skips would have cost. Best to buy a flat cap and some wellies now and start looking for trails of cow poo

Where does the hut get it's power supply? Umbilical from yours or fresh supply ( on the same phase ? ).

Can't help thinking that for 40 m or so, can't you get a cable there? Cat6 is cheap as chips, so you could bury 2 runs in cheap PVC conduit and enjoy hard wired performance. Maybe part buried / part arial run with catenary wire?

I believe you'd be better off asking them directly tbh, so as to be sure not to invalidate their warranty FYI, if you @ ( hashtag ) a member they get a notification. Just type @ and the list of members can be sifted through by typing the first letters of their username. Thus JSH would appear as @JSHarris He'll then get the prompt to respond.

I'd assume it would be by interrupting the mains power supply, via a contactor. Maybe some units have a set of zero volt contacts for external shutdown / control. Would be quite simple to do tbh.

If gasses are being produced in those quantities, it'll be from combustion created by a fully involved fire. Smoke will have been produced far, far sooner than this combustion will have occurred and will have subsequently been detected by the installed, linked, detection measures. By that stage there should be no real reason why you wouldn't be (1) alerted to the smoke generation, (2) up and exiting the property, and (3) removed from a position where such created gasses are a risk to life. IMO the focus here is on the wrong thing, hence why I'm splitting hairs. If there is a remit to tackle that situation, the talk should be of fire suppression and emergency / terminal escape measures. Its one of the reasons that 3+ storey domestic dwellings send a shiver down my spine.

With the steel supported on chairs, many choose to zip tie the Ufh pipes to the steel as a ready made 'clip rail'. I'd favour having the pipes clipped to the steel, and thus fully encapsulated in concrete.

Iirc, the plug in ones use the earth to transmit / receive. Voodoo to me tbh.

Netgear stuff is good quality and reliable. You may want an outdoor unit that can go on the outside wall, or one with an arial port so the antennae can go on the high point of the outside wall. @JSHarris may be able to offer some wisdom.

Hello and 'welcome back'. ?

Whilst I clearly hear your concerns and unpleasant previous experiences, it's simply not comparable to the safety you'd be afforded in a new 'regs-compliant' home. Kitchens will have heat detectors, and as the question relates largely to properties with mvhr, I doubt there will be issues from things as catastrophically bad in a fire as polystyrene tiles. Burnt toast in the toaster or a well done steak will set off my smoke detector by the front door, some 12m's away, let alone flames or a fire.

Can you give details of which make / type of film you went with please?

Yup, one of the major benefits. That job had semi-pedestals at each basin so more of a pita to get at them later. The other major benefit is being able to leave rooms isolated if they haven't yet been first fixed and then bringing them online, one feed at a time, to check for leaks / commission. Very handy in a part-complete build as you don't have to keep draining down and interrupting the water supply to already connected outlets. There was another 2-port manifold at the bottom of that pic ( yet to be fitted at the time iirc ) which serviced non-softened water. One to the boiler filling loop, and one to the kitchen sink cold tap ( for filtered water tap & cooking quality water ) plus it also tee'd off at the kitchen sink and supplied the outside tap. In an installation with a softener and an accumulator, the point where you tee the outside tap off from is of critical importance. It needs to be directly after the incoming cold stopcock and before the non-return valve of the accumulator**, or multi-block of an UVC arrangement. The outside tap should be before any pressure reducing measures so it influences the cold pressure to the house as little as possible. **You don't want the outside tap to be using stored energy from the accumulators,

You normally fit spacers ( door stop size timber ) between them to allow airflow. If it's just one or two then maybe worth trying, but it could go wrong tbh. 1-2mm isn't going to be something anyone other than you notices so maybe best left alone, or buy 2 new doors and gum tree the others?

Even more so on engineered as that likes to absorb moisture and respond in a worse way than natural, solid timber. Fitted solid oak work tops in a country cottage rental a few years back and the place was ice cold and damp. Customer brought the work tops to site a bit to soon and the buggers warped about 10mm end to end. I got some metal clamps and braced right through the tops, whacked hardwood shims in between the clamp bars and the high points and chucked a bucket of water over them. No method to my madness other than I thought it would cure them....and it did. I biscuit jointed hardwood end caps on ASAP and they are still there today. Tbh, 1-2mm warp for doors stored on site for a couple / few months isn't bad, you got off lightly IMHO.

The only reason for 28mm in that job was because of the accumulator. 22mm is fine on a non-acc install. No,point in going over what your cold main will deliver / is sized at. You can only get a pint out of a pint jar

Doubt it. How were they stored ? ( exact detail please ).

The lead work is a feature as well as functional. Clearly guys with pride in their work Looks really nice, but needs a contrasting colour to compliment, so it'll be nice to see the walls and windows finished to bring it all together. The roofer must be a 3 Weetabix guy for sure ! All neat work, you must be very happy.

32mm Hepworth? Was yours the ready insulated stuff ?

They were cheaper than that when I bought them, circa £30 for the 4-branch iirc. A quick ring around the merchants would get a proper price as nobody ever pays list price unless they're lottery winners.

OCD There was to be a plywood boxing-in to go directly above the manifolds and cover the cuts in the ceiling which are out of view. The problem was, how to fill the holes where the various pipes bent off into their different directions whilst maintaining fire cell qualities and basic neatness. The only reason for the stubs of 15mm copper was that's where the plywood was to be finger-cut to go over the pipes, thus not allowing melted plastic to compromise that transition. The 10mm's to the right hadn't yet been doctored to suit yet as this was the early stages of commissioning and testing and I was pushed to get some services working ( get the downstairs cloak wc working so the portaloo could go etc ) so I just needed to pressurised the manifolds and try's things for leaks.

A choice people make when deciding upon how they want their system to perform . Having the shower flow / temp fluctuating during use is something people wish to actively negate, and the pipe is cheap enough tbh. As long as they're brass or stainless then there's no real reason why not, just that the isolations aren't ideally suited to mains pressure / control of. Personally I'd not recommend it.

Pretty much what it boils down to. Hear the smoke detectors wailing, get up and get out.

For Hepworth installs.... Well worth a read