Nickfromwales

There would be a significant 'shoulder' if you used that upside down. Its a no I'm afraid . I genuine can't think of a job ive ever done like this, without using a sleeve.

It'll go into cast and leave PVC out the top, but I'm not sure of it'll do the other combination. Why are you going back to cast? Just renew the vent in PVC ?

It can if it saves Dave £100

Set of jump leads, a bit of digging, and violá......off grid with as much free juice as you want .

For £15 you can't really argue, but my OCD is kicking off with the hose going up.

Post a pic Dave, you know you want to

Just bin those and buy some standard flexis ?

The Soudal family of products is good quality and I use them regularly, mostly the L/E foam. We are all complicated, strange creatures of our own reasoning. ?

I'm still unsure as to where it's actually leaking from sorry. Is it where the sections join ?

I don't use white CT1 for ANYTHING. It goes near custard yellow. I will only, and reluctantly, use colour matched silicones to give a job the cherry on the cake IF I can't do the cosmetic / final sealing with a clear bead of CT1. This siliconing is done over a fundamental seal and accepted as 'sacrificial' sealing for aesthetics only. That can be quickly and easily removed and replaced as the silicone gets tired / grotty. The reason for the mix of makes is that I've not actually seen a clear Sikaflex tbh ( and haven't really looked for one either, for whatever reason ). Also, comparing the two, I maintain that Sikaflex is unrivalled for use as an adhesive, complimented with excellent 'sealing' properties, and stays white. You could quite easily tool and finish white Sikaflex and have it as the final product on display, but definitely not so with white CT1. Fwiw, the colured CT1's seem fine and maintain their colour so a shame the white goes 'off'. Hold the press....Bingo I'll get some and give it a whirl.

£300 doesn't sound too bad tbh, once you factor in all the grief you'll be avoiding trying not to fit one Simple, straightforward, looks the nuts and is a 10 minute fit. Get your wallet out me thinks

A picture with an arrow pointing to the leaking part would be helpful

Tough guy eh?

I have to do exactly the same thing next week......Tap washers gave up the ghost so the carcase got soaked over time and it all swelled up so I have to remove and refit the sink and renew the cabinet. Not looking forward to it tbh, and it's a riven, ceramic tile I'm going to cut the unit into firewood and remove one bonded side at a time. I hope the tiles stay on the wall !

I'll read that later if the Coors Light don't blur the words too much. Work in the morning so only a 6-pack ?

I did.....up to the point I was sweating, effing and jeffing, and looking like a cheerleader. Cant be done. End of. Anybody know what I'm on about? And split one ? Just me then ?

Panel all 3 vertical walls. If you have an 1100 tray then an 1100 wall panel will have very little meat left for screwing / fixing the chrome wall channel ( for the glass ) to. I don't like the idea of water ever getting to a painted plastered wall. At the very least I'd want an Upstand of similar material for the tray / wall junction.

I'd buy 1100 or 1200mm wall panels for each end and make a splash proof area, in the interest of longevity. I don't like to see the cubicle finishing tight on the edge but that's just me.

Neither are silicones. These are marketed as combined sealant, adhesive, gap filling goop. Sikalfex is extraordinarily good stuff IMO and is my weapon of choice for setting in and fundamentally sealing shower trays / formers and bonding baths etc into place. The merchants often have a 'sample' box with two pieces of wood bonded together with a ~6mm bead of sikaflex and the challenge is to get the two apart. It can't be done, I've tried twisting and tearing it and it just doesn't die. CT1 is pretty much as good but can be torn / pulled apart. I use the clear one for sealing between trays and tiles as it doesn't degrade, go mouldy or fail like clear silicone does. For 'chemicular dissection', don't ask me .

If you have the handset and the rainfall head, and the diverter, you can do what I do. Select handset, aim it at the wall, turn on and retire until it's warmed through. With your radial setup it shouldn't take long anyhoo ? Fyi, I'd never go for JUST the rainfall head as the spray / handset is too damn handy for washing the glass and tray down after showering. SWMBO may well agree .

Telescopic / flexible waste, water, power connections ?

Say what?!? Even when I piss my wife RIGHT off, she doesn't chuck out 350w . If she did, I'd rip the boiler out and bring some cheerleaders home. Free heat . If I could find enough cheerleaders would that be considered 'renewable energy' ? ?

From what I heard from the last intelligent lighting install, A LOT! Supplier was charging the punter for light fittings, and the spark and I were comparing what was available through the merchants, like for like, and the markup was something like 300-400%. That's before buying the system and paying the spark a lot more to run several hundred metres of cable. My favourite was the system supplier doing a design ( for a PH ) which included a load of 120w halogen uplighters ?