Nickfromwales

At least she can now see your frustration Cant you get labourers and be there with them?

Ahh, the old "foot through ceiling". I've done that twice in 18 years, and remember them well Are the lights led or halogen, as per the previous comment ? I hope you bought your hubby a pint after he let you off the hook? I mean, poking a hole through the only ceiling you could retain is a pretty minor thing, but the warped wooden floor........unforgivable ( us guys have to stick together you know ). Keep up the good work !

Yea, it's making my head hurt Temporary building but can't be made of panels ? I thought that was the whole bloody point of it being a non-permanent structure, as in you could demonstrate that it's fully demountable ?!?

It's a big shed TBH, ? Prob need 4 of those to be on the safe side ?

Will you make me a helicopter, please? Use the motor off the electric wacker

Ok, so two L sections bolted at opposite corners to form the structure ?

I'll post a pic when I move my most recent consignment of firewood off the ring beam . Quite a bit came out of the current job, 2 transit tipper loads of bone dry sawn 3x2 / batten / laths. Ive done a ring beam 6.1m x 3.8m ( iirc ) and it's a 5x2 treated timber, sistered to get strength but with less depth / height off soil so it's flush-ish with the patio. Its on made up topsoil, 500-700mm in places so I dug down with a post hole shovel / tweezers thingamabob, until I hit clay, and made short concrete pads. On top of those are stilts I made out of treated 100x100mm fence posts, doubled up on the runs and trebled in the corners ( an L shape of 3x100x100mm sections bolted together to support the corners of the sistered 5x2"'s ). I part buried these in haste, but will dig them back out and make the depth up with blocks on flat until above ground. Live and learn. . Soil pipe underneath to take an outside WC and rainwater runoff from box gutter and shed roof downpipes.

How is the osb holding up to being exposed? Did you varnish / seal it?

So what constitutes moveable? If I build mine so the sides are bolted together as loose panels, and the floor is a stilted platform, what about the roof? FYI I wanted one 7.5m long mono pitched roof from end to end, over a 6.1m shed, so short overhang road side and long one door end.

Mines going on a timber ring beam ( already done ) suspended up off the soil. 5" of eps in the floor. My question is do I need to sheath the underside so nothing burrows upwards into the eps? @Ferdinand, good point about the cat gap . Noted, and will be implemented.

Not quite... Firstly, is your bathroom all in one room? If so ( assuming you don't have a cloakroom with separate bath / sink ) it couldn't be easier. The 15's come off, balanced, from the UVC and multi-block, then they simply feed the shower and basin, teeing off accordingly. Feed the WC off the same unrestricted branch as the outside tap, and if possible also use that to feed the washine machine. Same balanced 15mm pair to the kitchen sink. Flow restriction to the WC is the main thing imo, but with only 3 bar coming in I'd not lose any sleep if you don't do anything other than tee off where easier.

Yup, not a job I'd have been envying, but looks better than some I've seen done by builders ( on their mothers side ) round here. ?

Static or automated ? Saw one that size which closed itself if it rained ( didn't ask how much it was though ). Rumour has it the A8's are powered by nuclear reactors. They're beasts.

That reduces the flow rate though so not always best practice imo

Not just that, but it also reduces the flow velocity making modern basin taps much less aggressive when inadvertently opened fully. No more unwanted fountains. .

It depends on what the difference is between your incoming mains pressure ( static ) and the pressure of the PRedV. If for eg the supply is giving you 4 bar and the PRedV is set to 3.5 bar then there's little to worry about, and preventing damage to the UVC from back-flow ( pressure ) from mixer taps can simply be dealt with by fitting a 22mm single check NRV on the DHW outlet of the UVC. That's applicable if you choose NOT to fit a second PRedV at the stopcock, so will have an potentially unbalanced system. NOTE : UVC manufacturers will stipulate all this in their respective MI's so this isn't a topic for choice, were just discussing differing ways of satisfying those requirements If you have multiple WC's then it's worth the effort of taking the cold feed from the unrestricted cold main ( so directly after the stopcock and supply NRV ) and, if the static incoming main is less than 5-6bar max, feeding the WC's off the unbalanced cold feed. Then you'll ideally want to fit flow restrictors in each WC to stop water hammer, reduce fill related noise and arrest the unregulated flow so as to have as little impact on the dynamic flow to the UVC and balanced house system.

I only land the joints if it's 18mm flooring, but tbh I don't bother with 18mm flooring any more unless it's over joists at 300mm centres. 22mm deck glued and fixed down properly will be rock solid regardless, as its no difference really between the long joint being unsupported between joists vs the short as they're t&g all round. There is a little argument if the joist are at 600mm centres, but that's rare as most TF houses I've seen have been 400mm anyway. I did one where the joists were at 600mm but the flooring didn't bother me, I was more worried about the huge amount of detectable deflection when bouncing on the floor Plumbers and sparks delight .

Perfectly good for a couple of quid more.

Re the shower. Just fit a surface mounted bar mixer. Any one that uses standard 150mm centres, so changing it is a 5 minute job ( and change of £100 ). ? Keep remembering "it's a renter, it's a renter" .

Yup. Unfortunately G3 requires the PRedV ( multiblock aka control group ) to be mounted at the UVC location ( iirc within 500mm of the cold inlet for some MI's ). Therfore you have to take a balanced cold feed, tapped off said block, back to any mixer outlets upstream. I combat this by doing what J suggests above, but for G3 you MUST have the manufacturer supplied PRedV at the UVC as it also incorporates a 5 or 6 bar cold mains PRV to mitigate against the PRedV failing. Regs folks, wonderful regs. Fwiw, @Crofter can easily choose between either discipline as his hut is quite small

JG SPEEDFIT has inherent flaws imo. Firstly it's not a single action install. You have to loosen the 'nut' to free up the moving parts inside, then, after inserting the pipe ( with insert fitted ) you then must fully re-tighten the nut to grip the pipe. After that, you need to then fit a separate plastic circlip between the nut and the ring to stop the fitting from accidentally being released and failing catastrophically. Now with Hepworth, Cut pipe Push in the ( much thinner ) insert. Push pipe in. Drink beer. Theyre chalk and cheese.

Not a problem TBH, as with an UVC you'll need to fit a PRedV and have it set at 3-3.5bar max . Modern plastic is rated at 10bar cold so you'll only ever see less than half its max operating pressure.

A PHE is a PHE, so, ahem, put it where you like. . The helio unit doesn't look that well suited to a low temp input to me, others may think differently. It's basically a TS with PHE's instead of an integral coil, ( admittedly with the added benefit of the better heat transfer characteristics from the PHE ), but will still start cooling quite quickly. That would need a dual cyl stat arrangement to ensure the HP kicked in nice and early to maintain the set temp accordingly. At that stage you'd just fit an UVC . If the buffer is disconnected from space heating then that Helio unit is a way complicated and high maintenance option.

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Hi and welcome .