Nickfromwales

4mm if it were me. SY all the way for ease and uniformity.

I did. She didn't give two hoots

Spill the beans Harold. ? I don't see the advantage of DP TBH.

Thanks. My mate says hi.

Ah! Ok, Same room = oky-doky. Seems good to go. ? U/S sockets on a ring is plenty good enough TBH. Just going radial in mine so I can knock rooms off individually. Cable runs are a breeze too that way.

Yup. Doing my bedrooms all on radials. Work in progress . @Onoff will know what I mean. ?

A, er, friend of mine wanted to know what a Tony Tray is? Thought id ask, being a good mate and that

Often referred to as "night-latch" where it's partially open but the locks are still fully operational / secure.

Anyone actually know what brownie points are?

That should get you some brownie points .

This with a non-return valve so it stays dry. .

He can't, sorry, due to copyright laws I just made up

Let me save you the squabble. . Hep is just fantastic stuff. No matter if it's a 90 or a straight your talking fit and forget if youve assembled it accordingly ( rounded and de-burred copper and inserts where required ).

This is all the solution you need . Water so you'll see leaks straight away and just top it up with air to get your target pressure. Would it be better to bend copper in that corner and have straight connectors outboard ?

Any radials for fixed equipment I've ever put in have always been on either a 16a or a 20a breaker / rcbo and in 2.5mm2. The derating always got done at the termination point eg fused spur. There you select the fuse rating accordingly for the connected equipment. My choice here would be to install it so you can hook anything up later without worrying about loading. Fwiw I've never run a radial less than aforementioned, only ever deviating when it's outside lighting etc where I use 6a or 10a accordingly. Just can't see any point in running such a low powered radial unless you plan to run 2.5mm2 anyway ( which would leave you the option to upsize the breaker later on if so required ). I'm a bit old school that way tbh, but that's how I got taught as an apprentice spark with SWALEC. If your 101% sure it'll never be needed then take what I say with a pinch, but better to put it in now than later. Remember that you'll need a fused spur or a socket anyway ( so as to get localised fused connection at the termination point ) so not much more money tbh.

Make the boiler feed a 16amp x 2.5mm2 radial and fuse down at the termination point. 6a is too close to the wind imo, with due consideration being given to future proofing. Pennies difference so better to do now.

Stick them on gumtree. . If they've helped you then pass the good luck on. Maybe to another self-builder who needs the lifeline .

Nope. It was 3 for a fiver . I live in the posh part

Last time I saw that written down it was in a phone box

I would have a couple of big signs saying "Smile, your on camera 24hr remote monitoring of this site in progress". A couple of very bright led security lights wouldn't hurt. More disco, less intruders .

Make sure you have sufficient airflow into the cistern to release the water during the flush. Most cisterns aren't airtight on purpose, as whatever volume shoots down the flush pipe must be able to flow ( with near zero resistance ) into the cistern simultaneously or you'll get a slow and useless flush with reduced velocity. I went to a student let once where they were messing with the toilet for whatever reason. I decided to put a small bead of silicone around where the lid sat and bonded it on. A couple of hours later I get a phone call saying the toilet won't flush. Turns out it would flush but the water was slowed down by the vacuum now created in the cistern. Cleared the silicone away from the rear half and it was sorted. @JSHarris I assume ethe mvhr / extract would cope with that issue? Or did you just not go mad on sealing up the cistern?

?

Clear CT1 for that. White silicone will tear and come away if there any movement whatsoever. DONT USE WHITE CT1! It will go custard yellow If you want a cosmetic ( coloured ) finish simply tool / baby wipe + MultiSolve spray the excess clear away and allow to cure, THEN top coat with a silicone. You simply peel that off every time it gets grotty and the CT1 stays mint for life underneath.

Plus it doesn't stink of burnt oil Was this a non-inverter ASHP being used on a 'high energy' property ? E.g. It was going flat out a lot of the time?

Putting a vacuum anywhere on the cistern will draw air back up the flush pipe. Does the cistern have a knock out anywhere to facilitate a connection? I assume you'd need to look where the newer type have this connection and check to see if you can replicate it. Not seen one myself afaik.