Jump to content

Nickfromwales

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    31381

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    346

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    In all reality not many. However, we do tend to have a more aware, and conscientious crowd here so my assumption is that if someone spent their life savings building their dream home, they'd ensure these things were serviced and maintained accordingly. If they choose not to, then they have themselves to blame when it goes wrong, but we will have shown due diligence in stating that not only is it a requirement, but it's also just plain good sense to keep such system/s looked after accordingly. G3 has always required initial commission and sign-off by a G3 qualified person, and, afaik, has always required susequent annual inspection and testing of the safety devices etc. A lot of cylinder replacements and failures could have been avoided by this annual check. Not to mention the damage to property from such failures. Good luck claiming on your insurances if they can prove you've been negligent.
  2. Nickfromwales
    This would only be practical if you envisage using all, or more than the SAPV's can store, with any real frequency. If you estimate you will have excess pv then maybe your a candidate for one x SAPV and 1x SA Stack ? Preheat is deffo a good idea as long as you'll actually need it, so maybe consider a bigger vessel and a PHE as @JSHarris has done, and maybe just one SA Stack for eg. Another consideration is do you need the extra flow rate that 2 x SAPV's will give ( 2 x 15mm outlets combined to a 22mm delivery setup ) or can you manage with only a 15mm supply? Bearing in mind that the Vaillant 938 heat store combi chucks enough water out of its 15mm connection to get you adequately showered ( with 2 showers running simultaneously ) if the cold mains will support it of course.
  3. Nickfromwales
    You can. Reasons against doing it are about efficiency . The Sunamp has very little standing / latent heat loss vs say an UVC, so less lost energy = less energy required. An ashp will have a poor CoP when delivering DHW, but if your not a huge DHW user, say retired couple for eg, then you may just be happy to suffer a bit when the ashp is providing DHW. Capital costs is one big point, but deduct the cost of an UVC plus yearly G3 inspections, and its losses, and then the cost of the SA starts to balance out.
  4. Nickfromwales
    I was going to post similar tactics but got worried about how far i was willing to take things
  5. Nickfromwales
    Simple. Just stop lying down on your kitchen floor . Dont thank me, it's what we do
  6. Nickfromwales
    Aye, there's a good crowd on here, and amazingly diverse too. Take a seat .
  7. Nickfromwales
    Hi, and welcome . Replies will soon follow so just keep an eye on the thread. @Temp will be amongst the crowd I expect.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Pmsl.
  9. Nickfromwales
    Then drive over them when your hungover ? ?
  10. Nickfromwales
    @TerryE has the 'dual' setup . Details in his blog
  11. Nickfromwales
    What about one of those motion activated cameras to capture the wankers reg number?
  12. Nickfromwales
    If your arms are hurting.....your doing it right. ??
  13. Nickfromwales
    Yes, but certain configurations are required to suit differing heat inputs. @Stones iirc has one that will accept heat energy from an ASHP, whereas @JSHarris has one which will accept electricity only.
  14. Nickfromwales
    C'mon folks....let's get started with the meaty questions and get him sweating ? Hi, and welcome aboard Elliot.
  15. Nickfromwales
    Fyi.
  16. Nickfromwales
    We're pioneers, that's why ?
  17. Nickfromwales
    Crikey. One day of rain and you think you need a boat . You in the Everglades ?
  18. Nickfromwales
    Do all you can to connect to the sewerage. A Saniflow is going to cost a good few hundred so spend that on digging up a trench instead. Saniflows are the work of the devil, so avoid one wherever even slightly possible.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Page 4 Any stored water heater will need expansion and a PRV. If there is a very short run of hot water pipework before the only outlet then you'll also need to fit an expansion vessel, so the PRV doesn't nuisance pass. The manufacturers instructions ( MI's ) will give these particulars to the letter, and they differ with size and make. G3 is required for stored water heaters even under 15L capacity........ I thought under 15L got you off the hook for a DIY install but it doesn't seem so. So basically you'll need a pipe to atmosphere which falls continuously in accordance with D1 and D2 discharge pile work particulars. Again, these will be in the MI's. Maybe fit a bigger supply cable and fit an instant?
  20. Nickfromwales
    Ariston are the ones I normally come across / fit, but they are all pretty much the same thing tbh. Heatre Sadia and Redring are known names, along with similar offerings from the better known like Triton.
  21. Nickfromwales
    He's already been initiated Terry . I'll tag you and Ian into the pm now ? Been a long day sorry ?
  22. Nickfromwales
    Bar bill ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    Bird is the word. ? I'll order one and send you the bill if it burns out
  24. Nickfromwales
    ? Fingers crossed eh?
  25. Nickfromwales
    With the bigger holes I tend to drill the tiles before fitting them. I make a circle out of decorators caulk ( like a moat ) and fill it with water so whilst drilling the bit stays submerged and cool. I've got a 30mm bit which must have done 40-50+ holes and is still going. Cheap bits run cool seem to last quite well, but the 5& 6mm ones are a pita as your usually drilling fitted tiles so can't keep the buggers properly wet / cool.
×
×
  • Create New...