Nickfromwales

In a nutshell, yes. Would be dependant on the type of pv diverter if you can cascade from DHW to the buffer.

Hi and welcome Mike. Sounds like a meaty project . Take a seat, the replies will follow ( and we have some damn knowledgable folk here too ). Any chance of a site map? Maybe some lurkers on here who may be near you / interested.

I sooooo need a shedshop. ?

Ashp ? That with a large UVC seems a no brainer, coupled with a buffer and just drive the Ufh direct. Re the wood burning stove ( WBS ), you can have one with a ph, just fit it outside . Why build an airtight low loss house and then stick a chimney in it ? ? With 6 of you consuming DHW I seriously doubt that the SA stack would be the best choice. Pump all the Pv into the UVC, and the winter won't be a problem you just boost off E7 / grid as necessary. Check out @Stones blog. He's getting some really good numbers back off his ashp.

@SteamyTea On an extension I worked on, the customer bought fitted wardrobes from Sigma. The fitters weren't exactly 'precise' with the cutting of said £11k's worth of chipboard and MDF ( lol ). My customer complained so much that one of the area managers called around and apologised. He then went on to further apologise that they hadn't responded quicker, and said that the installation manager was out of action. Apparently he had gone to another site, got pissed off with the incompetence of the particular fitter, grabbed the jigsaw off him and proceeded to cut the offending bit of wood freestyle to demonstrate that it could be done. He had such a tight grip that it was only when the carpet turned red and the fitters started shouting at him that he realised he had, I shit you not, cut through two fingers and was half way the through the third. These blades cut bloody quickly when you don't want them to. In my youth, when Dewalt first brought out the 18v skill saw, I, in my infinite wisdom, turned it upside down and wedged it in a workmate as a baby table saw, jamming the trigger on with insulation tape. Got about 3-4mm into my thumb before I noticed I was about to end my classical piano career. Soooooooo stupid, but also soooooooo easily done. Looking back I still shudder at my various hair-brained shinnannigans How I've still got all my digits is anyone's guess, let alone my leg which I nearly chopped clean off with a 9" grinder ( that was a close one ? ).

Still bright red too, and no plasters, upgrading him to 'legend' status amongst trades folk "The show must go on!"

The second you can confirm that, we'll make you a staff member .

I'll decide that when it's finished . Yes to tiling straight onto that tanking. Cementitious powder adhesive ONLY !!

What I normally use

I'd have ST if it was free, and only use it for DHW preheat. Pv is a no-brainer. If MCS and fits aren't attractive you can still DIY with kits quite cheap now.

Chip pan method? With the pipes secured from inside ( foam / other ) you then use your hacksaw on its 45o setting and chop the pipe off near flush to the wall. Get an off cut of pipe, around 1000mm, and put a clip on each end. That'll act as a parallel guide to show you exactly where the outside run intersects with the bit sticking out of the wall, and mark your cut accordingly. Youll have to use an elbow not a bend, as you can't cut back enough for a bend, plus the radius will catch the render even more requiring more cutting out and making good. The render on mine is like kryptonite. Virgin guy was just watching nail clips whizz past his head for half hour before realising it's time for the tapcon bit and some yellow nail-plugs. . The youth of today.

Couldn't tell you tbh. I'd still use a compression type drywall anchor but it doesn't sound like that'll pull away from FC like it does with PB. Suprised that the BCO wouldn't want at least a 3mm skim, for basic conversion of the board to 'non-combustible', same way youre not allowed to hang a combi boiler on wood, or non plastered PB. It either has to be skimmed or an Ellis board has to be screwed on first and then the boiler mounted on that, so beware anyone mounting a boiler.....it can't go on a combustible surface .

A lot of the time I've done the inside stuff first so would have to put that on as I'm gluing the elbow on outside. Fack that. Foam the inside gap, coloured frame sealant on the outside. Silicone is the last option if I've nowt else on board.

Fermacell sounds the best option as its fire resistant and you can fix into it. The plant room is one of the places where, IMO, extra consideration should be given regarding fire, so best to completely contain it with FC on the walls and ceiling? Kills many birds with one stone, cheap as two layers ( timber + PB ) and can be painted / looks better naked.

Cant read the plan too well but space 009 shows a loop of its own. Really not necessary and could be fed by the return leg of the lobby loop for eg. Space 002 e/s and 003 dresser don't need their own loops either. Just use one loop and one stat mounted in the dresser and job done. An electric towel rad could fortify the e/s if necessary. Tbh, you'll have to insulate some of the flows where they pass through the lobby to stop it overheating / creating hotspots. 9mm Armorflex will suffice, and leave 50mm gaps between feeds to allow a decent bit of screed in between. 004a and 004b wouldn't go through the lobby, they'd just be sleeved and insulated for 6-8" and go under the wall behind the manifold, as the crow flies. If your going for rads upstairs, I can recommend using another Ufh manifold to run the rads and individual room stats for the upstairs spaces. I'd be more worried about controlling the heat in the rooms upstairs than down, and personal preferences are quite important in the bedrooms so I'd focus more on that. You can set the flow temp a bit lower so the rads don't get too hot, and just fit slightly bigger rads to compensate. I did this in a big property and it worked like a charm, Ufh down, rads plus one room Ufh up, and another dedicated manifold for the towel rads so they could have warm towels all year without heating the bathrooms, adjusted seasonally on the TMV. Out of curiosity, what is running the heating and hot water ? Gas and UVC / ASHP / other ?

Will P&P be a bitch? The only downside is this is going to be an item that more than one person needs at the same time. Boarding goes on for quite a long time. I Bought mine off eBay for £140. Quite a strong one with extensions etc. £40 P&P though. .

A lot of merchants do that, in fairness to TP. Cant help feeling sorry for Joe Public when they mistakenly venture in and get bitten. .

@Trw144 has a ST system installed so maybe can provide some facts / feedback .

If your going to prime it and apply a self adhesive membrane, then both and then some. If your going to paint on a liquid membrane then it can be rough as toast without any worry. Seeing as your doing a hand cast screed then the latter is your weapon of choice. Very forgiving too, so no need for it to be a complete work of art.

As long as it's got a pub. ??

A former to mould the screed to yea? Then remove?

Haven't you lot got bloody houses to build ?

Always best to use an mdpe stopcock on mdpe. . I'm an avid hater of anything ( metal ) compression going onto anything other than metal. The olives just chew through.

Are you using a stand alone gulley / drain and forming the fall yourself? Eg no former ? If so 25mm will be ample for the fall, but you'll need a uniform perfect floor to apply primer and the membrane to. You could add fibres to the medium you use to form the area, and then simply leather it with liquid tanking membrane. As it's not timber I so no real need for any decoupling medium TBH, but if you use a grp former then you'll have no choice.

Agreed. It's the batteries which are the weak link. Buy the cheap one and get 2 new ( above linked ) batteries. Youll get your money back, just put it here for sale after. . If it's on much longer I may buy it so chop chop.