Nickfromwales

And before the crowd mobs me, that was the size of the plant room and the designer confirmed that those being close was a non issue (considering these can be in one dual terminal).

Fitted these on a good few jobs where driven rain was expected to be a factor to mitigate against. These were for 180mm ducts.

Not a real world issue afaic. I’ve fitted loads of systems, foam and rigid steel, and nobody’s ever reported standing water to be an issue. Constant airflow means these just suck or blow themselves dry, but I do angle the last bit of duct downhill before it gets to the external facade.

You can plasterboard, just don’t plaster, but only relevant on the exterior walls obvs. Are you dot & dabbing, if you’ve parged masonry?

Every day is a school day. My first direct experience of AB, but defo not the last!

Maybe keep a spare remote for a Velux roof light in the glovebox! Not ideal but better than the brick-toss through the cheapest one.

I reckon flow is choked. Usually a partially open valve on the jig, or a partially open gate (pump) valve.

Zoom in and see the two Amazon stats on the pipes.

More “professionals” to the rescue……not! Good that you pushed back and got this over the line.

This.

Ah, missed that bit! I think more the point that it’s getting to 70° as it’s unable to dissipate heat and therefore is overshooting?

Solvent weld if under floors etc is a must, for all smaller bore stuff. Soil / foul 110mm is perfectly fine as push fit. I use all round patent band to hang the soil pipes and it’s easy to do the falls this way too. You want to avoid connecting the soil pipe to the lower chord of the joists. For a previous clients build where I fitted a bathroom over a bedroom I used dynamat (Killmat) to directly sound-deaden the pipework, and another layer of the acoustic rockwool immediately above the downstairs ceiling (between the bottom chords of those posi joists) for as good a result as possible.

Over 2m it can be virtually flat. It’ll have the velocity of the flushed water to get you well clear of the first straight running pipe and off down south. I did an en-suite where a Saniflow was constantly blocking / breaking down, and the clients asked me to find a route to the manhole. Due to other services the 5m run had to lay pretty much completely flat, with a very slight fall for the last 1.5m; when I say slight, almost no distinguishable movement of the bubble on the level. Works perfectly, in my mates FIL house, and has been doing so for the last 15 years. Regs are wonderful, when life’s wonderful, but if you ask a BCO for a deviation, and demonstrate that it flushes perfectly 10 times in a row, they’ll just say “fine”. If you have b regs involved? If not, fit the 2m run with the absolute max fall you can introduce, and move on to the next problem. It’ll be fine.

How secure does it need to be? Can it just be like a carport?

Does the hot water cylinder get the flow temp displayed going to the cylinder when calling for hot water?

@EinTopaz Sounds like a restriction. Can you post some pics of the valves under the boiler, the ones that actually connect to it. This stinks of one of the flow or return valves being only partially open. Next check is to remove the head off the zone valve and move the spindle manually. Do this with the boiler at 70° and then see if the temp shoots up on the flow pipe stat.

So can be done with a pre-insulated underground pipe. Maybe better to have the HP away from the new house, and accept the additional losses from the UG pipe. Low temp for space heating will be near zero loss, but it’ll get a bit worse if you send high temps down it for DHW. Consider compromises which mean charging the UVC in the house off cheap rate electricity (solar PV?) and not off the HP. Dead simple, and very low stresses on the HP then too.

Cavity doesn’t really matter, it’s just about the wall profile here tbh. If you do a mock up you can ask the posi gods to dress the ends for you to sit on flat. They add the wedges and away you go. “Plonk & play”. Wall plate sits across both, flat, and posis made to fit on as per the above. We accept your apology. Don’t do it again.

Ah. Found you! Why are you all alone in this room, by yourself?

2x 45’s may give you more wriggle room then.

At least it’s not an AMG, or you’d be out there more often Bloody oil cooler this weekend and it’s front end off……again. Gotta love a V8 though lol.

@MortarThePoint You may need the 2x 45° option if there’s a sudden change in levels. Also, I’m sure most of these square pots drop into a round socket, so you can rotate the pot and the grille stays square to the house.

I'm not so sure your bespoke design would get through MCS, as it's very much away from a "standard installation". For BUS you need an MCS accredited designer and installer, and I think most would cry for their mummy when they are asked to do something that they didn't do yesterday, and the day before, and repeat. I'd buy a cheap as chips ASHP for the outbuilding, and feck the idea of a grant off, and install some fan coils. The go BUS for the house? If I've got this right.

Just order the posis with a longer upper chord Have that long enough to fly over the top of the wall so the OSB has something to fix down into. Then fix the longer chords to the wall plate. This allows a bit more movement between structural elements vs the OSB trying to contend with the movement of the posis vs wall plate. The edpm will heat up and cool down seasonally, expanding and contracting, so I’d consider creating some ‘give’ at that junction.

If R&D had said “let’s use emulsion”, or something else, one assumes they’d be using it? This was a concept born in the states and franchised over here, afaik. So it’s been around, successfully, for some time apparently.