Nickfromwales

And the pump MUST lay perfectly flat or the front wet bearing will run dry and burn the pump out prematurely. The pic seems to show it slightly uphill.

What are you pouring ? Remind me if your screeding / liquid / concrete?

Why not just run a SWA cable from each house out to the locality of the plant supply. A c-form socket on an up stand at the end of each and then a c-form plug on the plant supply. If one supply fails, you just unplug from one and plug into the other. Simples. Obviously it's a no-brainer, whilst excavating anyway, to fit two new pumping stations and sort this mess once and for all . Edit to add : Do as Dave says and have these as dedicated supplies direct off the mains NOT out of the CU's.

TLC Direct 200 degree

Following on from this post How many any of the rooms have the UFH piped that way eg just laying in between the battens over the insulation? Is the entire first floor piped like that ? Are all the ground floor loops in screed?

It may just be a case of adjusting the turn screw that governs how high the water level gets before the float valve stops the water from filling any higher. Should be an easy fix tbh.

Wireless or hard wired?

Let me know when the snow melts .

What make are they ? Just sounds like the flush plates have been pressing on the actuator rods which push the flush mechanism. They're on threads so you just turn them in a turn or two and try again. A pic of the flush plate may help

HG range has always been my choice. HG

Looking good

UFH aluminium spreader plate is what I'd recommend. If you can add 2x1 battens then you can leave a gap each end to loop the pipes which is 1000 times easier than looping under.

Isnt the 22mm one the original hot feed from the cylinder? +1 on the soft copper, not on there. Can you get to one of those compression couplers and swap it out to a compression tee?

Cheaper, but poorer performing, so not necessarily a good alternative. However, if you put 250mm of it in, it'll be cheaper and not far off as good, overall. If you have the oversight then you have a structural subfloor. That indeed means you can go 75mm of dry sand / cement screed. Over the geocell, im not sure if you would still be safer reinforcing. Yup. You need to make the two loops the same length each so they dont go out of balance, eg one side of the room warms up sooner etc, ( or as close as you can get it ). You dont want 100m and 25m making up a 125m zone Lag the flow of the longest runs where they pass through other zones to get where they're going. Thisll also help stop overheating the floor where there are lots of pipes coming from the manifold If going for thinner screed, go for tighter centres. Id go for 100 or 150, given that you can run slightly lower flow temps if you have more water volume in the floor. No formulas with me mate, im from the back streets Just use the force, me.

We'll just tear the last few pages out of this thread when were all done. Still giggling to myself. Quality. @newhome = new dark horse.

That just made my week mate.

I swear I haven't laughed so much in ages. My kids came and asked why I was crying PMSL x34

No, he's just tight

Wasn't it your wife who requested the arse-level MVHR exhaust outlets?

Thanks for sharing

Its all good The inks free.

@newhome Digressions are a part of everyday life here so dont worry, it'll all be ok in the end.

Does the immersion ever nuisance trip / overheat stat kick out?

Lots of ex girlfriends undies knowing Nick They're probably still wondering where they're gone. And no, you cant make this any worse, either of you.

I do worry about you. New T&C's coming soon......including a CRB