Nickfromwales

Fyi. You can fit tanks in an attic and mitigate against leaks. You basically get a sheet of marine ply, make some 100x18mm pine up stands all round, and GRP it to make a giant drip tray. EDPM rubber membrane may be an easier DIY method. You then just run an oversized overflow pipe 32mm minimum to atmosphere ( roof eave etc ) from the drip tray.

A cold mains accumulator is the ideal solution here, or probably two of them to give you the 24hrs capacity requirement. They're passive, so no pumps and no electricity / electrical connection. I'm specifying this solution for a couple of clients with them residing in outdoor plant locations, suitably draught-proofed, and protected against frost. One of the major benefits is they are potable ( drinking quality water ) and comply for a whole of house solution, plus you'll have an artificially reinforced cold mains with phenomenal cold water flow rates to boot, so running multiple showers / other hot & cold outlets simultaneously etc will be a great side-effect of their integration. Storing water outside of the heated envelope is preferential so when you open a cold tap, the water is cold. Frost mitigation for the outside plant location would be via a simple couple-of-hundred watts of tubular electric heater via a frost stat. A pair of 500L accumulators would get you through a 48hr period with ease if your disciplined with your water consumption in the emergency times. Consider a large CWS ( coffin ) tank and running the WC's off gravity, but RWH systems would need to treat the water most likely as flushing loos with it would release small amounts of aerosol spray into the immediate surroundings. Best to check on that as I'm not fluent in that type of system. Id spend the money on accumulators and ditch the RWH other than for watering the garden. I would think twice about the cost / complexity of bringing that water into the dwelling.

A way to cheat out of lots of fixings with the cold feed going 'up and over' is to pull a 6mm catenary wire over first, spanning the big members / beams, and tighten it off with a Gripple. Secure the loose tail with a couple of U clamps and don't over tighten. Then you can zip-tie the pipe at 300mm intervals, cheaper and quicker imo. EDIT : Just looking at the picture, if your going alongside one of those big support beams eg left to right, stick with the Girder clamps

@Ferdinand Run a 22mm Hepworth pipe up and over with basic girder clamps and just lag it. Cover with white duct tape for aesthetics Do that with a 100m length if a 50m isn't enough. No joints on the main run is a no brainer. 2-man manageable without issue. As you should have 3 phase available, you'll need to provision to have a new 3-phase board to run the electric showers and water heater. Size the water heater accordingly with either a 15litre instant blended down to 50oC flow or if preferred just fit a Sunamp unit so you have no valves / complexity / discharge pipework to outside / annual inspection and known maintenance. SA = Fit and forget. . For showers, forget the accumulator and go for a single 50gal break tank, or two smaller 25gal coffin tanks if space is tight. Use these on a 22mm pipe 'common rail' reducing to 15mm to supply each one and use Pumped Electric showers. Instant high performance and they suck the water out of the gravity / break tanks. The water heater / WC / kitchen / utility can then run completely unaffected by the bulk water consumption of the showers. Triton T80Si These have integral run time limiters for 8-10-12 min showers or around those times afaic remember so members can't shower forever and run the break tanks dry. Also preserves water in the event that somebody leaves a shower running. They'll automatically shut off after the preset timer ( user definable jumper pins are located inside the shower to select duration ). 8.5kw is plenty but they are available in 9.5kw too iirc.

I just use nice big screws into a thick bit of timber. Between tightening the 3 screws a bit at a time, after they initially bite up tight, you can pull left / right and up. Easy to get it spot on with just a decent hand held screwdriver.

If its the one above, that crock of crap isn't mine

Which picture amigo?

End feed, remember

CT1 all the way. Silicone is not a very good product for this imo, and can skin over and lose adhesion from the underside of the tray.

Another heathen putting speed fit into compression. Two words id use for anyone doing that on one of my jobs.................."your sacked" !

Thats what I always use, and im pretty sure that ive never seen a tapered one. I often turn the shower arm thread all the way into this to start the first fix plumbing, and they spin in finger tight without any force, not how it would be with a tapered fitting Use an end feed one instead of compression and your bombproof.

No need to connect to a phone line for internal signal check. Just register two handsets and then start an intercom call between them and do a walk test. Crossover shouldn't matter for phone lines, thats usually just for data interference mitigation.

The chamber with the connections branching off in the wrong direction

Pictures ?

+1. Just remember not to exceed the REN ( ringer equivalent number ) of 4. Each SLT ( single line telephone ) typically has a REN of 1, so no more than 4 phones. If more are necessary, you can get REN boosters, but most folk will have one base station and a bunch of DECT cordless phones registered to that base station. Have you tried connecting a cordless phone to the socket there and then checking for DECT range throughout the house ? Id do that first and see if you need a remote phone elsewhere. Edit : DECT = Digital Enhanced Cordless Telephony aka signal jumping to use the best signal during the calls.

Hi Steve. Welcome to 'the' forum. That lot should keep you busy .

Take a seat Steve, someone will be along shortly

How it looks infilled with 3x2". Cuts around the waste to allow a bit of movement when connecting to the tray. Troughing out for pipework / cables etc. Happy days. Plenty of acoustic roll so folk downstairs can't hear the shower or tall people peeing . End result. Not a wetroom as this was a very small room. But all tanked and membraned so as good as. Nice level entry shower, compared to the 160mm step to get into the old one

If it wasn't a wet room you could use lollipop sticks tbh, but a wet room is a different beast altogether.

Any unit that has motors or fans should have flexis fitted to combat the "transmission of vibration" to rigid or fixed pipework. Deffo go for the flexis.

If I'm reading this correctly then the middle of the room is the issue. What I've done previously, so as not to raise the floor level at the door, is to lift all the floorboards and get the room back to the exposed joists. I then fitted full lengths of 3x2" on the inside face of each joist, as parallel ( sister joist ) rails, set to the height of the lowest joist -18mm. A laser is your friend here for sure, but you can use a level and get good results ( like the good old days ). So say the lowest point is your doorway. You measure down 18mm from the top of the joist, and clamp a full length of 3x2" accordingly, level it as required making sure your start point stays exactly where it should be. Double check as this will dictate the rest of the floor level ! Screw that to the joist using 10x3's and put plenty in. Gluing will help too if you can work quickly enough. Cut 2 pieces of 3x2" narrow enough to fit between the joists. Clamp another full length of 3x2" opposite the first one and repeat with levelling. Sit the off cut of 3x2" from the first rail onto the next and then sit your 600mm level onto that. That'll allow you to make sure that each rail on each joist is level with the previous one. The purpose of the 3x2" off-cuts is to allow you to bridge over the joists when you get to the middle of the room, where you should find the joists higher than the rails plus 18mm ply. Repeat until you've railed the whole room, then get a piece of 18mm ply on its side sat on the rails, to use as a guide for trimming the joist tops down to suit with an electric plane. Once you've got level rails throughout, and they're 18mm lower than the lowest point in the room, you can then rip 18mm plywood down to i film inbetween the joists. Once that's done, ( plumbing and tray etc omitted at this point as it's a separate subject ), you can glue and screw 6mm plywood in full sheets over the top of the lot. Loads of PVA spread around with a floor layers comb ( 3mm notch ) and 1"x8's BZP screws at 120mm centres to fix the ply down nice and tight. By the time you tile, and posibly UTH ( under tile heating ) wire too, you'll not have pushed very far past the existing door level. You can plane the joist tops down after the plywood goes down, up to you. My 2 cents. PS if the joists are at all loose or excessive movement is detected, alter the 18mm dinension to 38mm and I fill with 3x2" on flat instead of the ply. You can park a car on that

Off cut of 15mm pushfit pipe will do just not as easy to get a tight bend.

What size are the joists ?

With great power comes.......great fear.

Ok, you got me on a technicality. BUT....you lose the point anyhoo because you should have said so in that post . Joe public could have easily read that as staple the wire down, but don't beat yourself up over it, allow me to do it for you instead