Jump to content

Nickfromwales

Members
  • Posts

    30686
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    310

Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Whatever has been added to the very original house is another bite out of your PD. Why aren’t you just simplifying this by going for a full planning application? If they refuse at least you’ll know why and what’s not ‘acceptable’, but nothing stands out as offensive or domineering so I doubt you’ll have issues; unless the planning officer was bullied at school.
  2. These are difficult to get right when they’re planned and executed to suit. Retro-fitting these will be crazy difficult, but not impossible. You can do anything in reality, it’s just time / cost / quality and this will need a boatload of filling and sanding to get it looking right. If someone rang me to ask me to do this as a paying job, I’d be adding a few zeros to the bill and clearing my diary for a month.
  3. Yup. Zero chance of getting anything in from outside. Seems an ok job so prob just needs the air to stop moving about under the unit and BINGO. Have you used a foam gun before? It’s such fun (not) if not?
  4. Not how to live, but I’ve had to do similar in cheap rentals when me and the missus moved in together 30 odd years ago. Laws / regs / acceptable minimum standards have changed now, so this just shouldn’t be happening. 16°C is terrible, they keep prisons warmer than that.
  5. Exactly the type of property that should never have had an ASHP installed on to. So many useless tossers happy to take the money and say nothing. Whats the EPC?
  6. Or ICF Sorry mate, there's only room for one. 10/10. Consider AeroBarrier for the airtightness of the existing. Just done a hybrid masonry / posi joist roof refurb, and got the AT score down to <0.20ach as I am a fecking wizard lol. Norrsken doors and windows, blown cellulose in the roof + AVCL and the parge and liquid airtight membranes where necessary to get the results. ASHP and UFH now operate at crazy low temps, tres bien!
  7. Defo a new slab and footings, as b regs will not allow space heating in non-insulated spaces due to terrible energy losses. You're not even supposed to put a radiator in conservatory as they have open ventilated ridge details. You could sample the slab and see if it's robust, and if so you could just bond PIR to it and build up to the level of the doorway, less the thickness of the floor covering, but in honesty once you disturb this for footings there will not be much worth salvaging. Better to lift the footings and lay the slab so you step up into the new porch, to weatherproof it, giving ample opportunity to insulate and then heat it with less losses.
  8. Why PD? Why not go for the original design if a downstairs additional WC is required / of long term benefit? A planning application isn’t likely to fail here imo.
  9. This would require a LOT of EWI, to get these two sections (old and new) to be anywhere close in comparison. Have you included increasing the soffit and roof overhang to accommodate this properly? Seems the new extension will massively out-perform existing, eg you’re in Passivhaus territory with the new, so without airtightness and MVHR (assuming this?) are you sure this isn’t just a little OTT?
  10. Some pics please.
  11. You should be insulating the slab somehow too, assuming you’ll put a radiator out there. So I also assume you’ll know you’ll need to dig the pathway up to install footings for the brick walls? A new slab will be needed with insulation and DPM to form the floor. Insulation needs to go against the brickwork, so use Marmox boards (minimum 40mm) to clad those, stopping short of where the cavity gets closed by the external leaf of new brickwork. Then drill and fix the timber studs / frames to that, using foam and fixings. You'll need to fit DPC everywhere to stave off any future damp issues. Not contacting the pillar would be best, as per your previous.
  12. Every days is a school day, for all of us mate
  13. Standard window and door frames are solid material, wood or alu, or PVC etc. A thermally broken frame will have a layer of something (cork often used in wooden windows) as a means of separating the exterior and interior halves of the frame. Pull out the compriband and set it to one side. Use kitchen roll etc to remove any obvious moisture. Get some Illbruck 330FM foam and seal up under the threshold. Have you used a foam gun before? On amazon you can buy disposable tips which give you a means of getting the foam much deeper into the cavity, LINK, which you fix onto the gun by pushing them on and then tape in place with a good few turns of pvc electrical tape so that it doesn't fall off 'mid squirt'. Any residual moisture will be absorbed and dissipated over the following few days, so don't worry about 'trapped' moisture, it'll find it's way outta there by itself.
  14. Or around here…”sex pond”.
  15. Make the hot tub a-la ICF?
  16. KISS. Stuff a load of A1 rated loose rockwool down the garage side of the ducting, and leave it 20mm below the slab. Then pour some SLC in as a cap. Will stop rodents too.
  17. Add some counter battens and take the FR plasterboard down to 10mm shy of the slab, then fill the void with intumescent mastic. Then put a skirting on top for mechanical protection.
  18. I’d say the tape which is exposed to both ice cold and room temp is now a place for condensation to form. My money would be on the frame not being fully foamed 360°, preventing cold and drafts getting to the rear of the tape. Look from outside and see how well (usually not) the unit was sealed up from weather, and report back. Dont forget the time of year!
  19. If you alter the sides then it’s a complete new set of structural engineering drawings.
  20. “If it don’t fit, it don’t fit” 🤠
  21. Anybody want to have a stab at how long an ASHP will last, vs a good quality gas boiler? This also needs to be factored in.
×
×
  • Create New...