Nickfromwales

@ProDave, you want the flip over type waste. Buy a good quality chrome over brass one and its bombproof. Do NOT fit the click clack type waste as my arse cheek pops mine open. A bad day in the life of a plumber trying to do his work and the work of others, and then choosing between happy wife...or happy customer.... By that stage I would have plugged the hole with an oily rag tbh

Just ring and ask if they do the solvent insert reducer.

TBH, I may be interested in buying it off you after your done with it, if you go the 18v route PM me.

18V will give longer runs between charges and be a more saleable gun afterwards. Downside, a little bit heavier.

How about 6mm MDF ripped into 125mm slices and chamfered to stop the top edge from fraying ? If you break the insulation away you'll have to foam it back and cut it when cured, which will be a pita.

Ive got the 780 XPS shadow line which is the dogs bollocks. The box said "convenient carry handle makes it easily transportable around site". MY ARSE IT DOES!!

Im mostly Makita for my entire collection, but the autofeed gun was not their finest hour at all Mine jams a lot, so much so that I carry a long nose pliers in my pocket all the time im using it. The Hilti one is very basic looking in comparison but seems to just keep going from when ive been on site and seen guys using them.

.....or could read "almost to be expected" when referring to typical mass-builders.

We'll always have Paul Potts !

Did you know we invented the handkerchief

Top advice. The only issue is if the door is being accompanied by the fitters.....to fit it. @j_s What the Bobby Moore with your door?

I just like the ability to yank on the waste pipe all I like after welding it all to the stack. With the rubber bung, you sneeze and out it comes. Theyre ok if it's all timber work and you can clip the pipes, but even then I just can't see any reason to use them when you can buy the all solvent solution just as easily and it's a far far better job IMO. I always worry about them pulling out......no such worry with solvent weld. The only con with solvent weld is you get one shot to get it right as the glue goes off very quickly. The way to avoid distaster is to mock up dry, number and mark the pipe and fitting at each junction and then you can just glue one pipe and one fitting at a time, gluing and twisting until the marker lines line up. Draw two or three lines ( across the fitting and onto the pipe ) as it's easy to get a single line not quite lined up properly, not so easy with multiple lines

That solvent filler works on most stuff, so I'll be suprised if it's not compatible with what you've already got. The issue is the compatibility of the reducer I linked and the fittings you already have. Likelihood is that you can source the matching suitable reducer to correspond ?

No need to rough them up tbh, just use a solvent cleaner first to remove any contaminants. Try to rotate the fittings after you've pushed them home, as that tends to give a good key. Shower tile / trap looks good to me.

Comments to follow after the pics .

Why buy a 40mm pipe and wonder if it'll be ok, when you can just buy a 50mm pipe and KNOW it'll be 100% ? Don't underestimate the effect that soap suds have when filling a 40mm pipe, as when the full bore gets filled you lose the air gap and drainage becomes laboured. 50mm for me every time, and nobody comes after me to fix my problems . Its a big fat NO to using the rubber 50mm bung, instead you want one of these and use this stuff to glue it all together. Once that goes off you can jump all over it and it'll stay rock solid. Only switch back to regular solvent weld when it's the waste pipe and fittings your doing. You may need to match the soil fitting and the 50mm insert / reducer manufacturer to get a proper fit / compatibility. If the shower run goes under the bath, and the bath panel is removable, then fit a sweep tee facing into the flow so it comes up beside the bath with a rodding eye so you can rod from the stack to the shower trap. Some shower traps can be 'opened' and you can easily rod from the trap to the stack, so adjust accordingly for whatever you decide on. Yes, with ease. Either fit an AAV ( air admittance ) valve upstream of the tee point under the bath, or fit an anti-vacuum / siphon trap on the basin, like this to stop any glugs from the basin whilst the bath empties.

I wouldn't take a pay cut for anyone ?

This one looks like it would be no wider than the straight solvent coupler ?

40mm x 32mm solvent Offset reducer, and then a 32mm rodding / cleaning eye.

Eh? Over studwork you'd be using screws ? Am I missing something ?

You'll need some foam to stop the board touching the block work. How much is dependant on how good the block work is, or if your going over cables etc.

Could you let him know I can do a far better deal for him than all the others if he's happy to pay cash. I've got one last unicorn boiler left and it's on a one-day only sale which lasts all next month. And the month after.

Looks a nice bit of kit. Which module connects the lighting, and how? Have you run parallel cable runs to a remote location i.e. where the switching / dimming unit would go ? I'd assumed the control panel would reside there, not the actual switches. In fairness the last scene setting lighting arrangements I fitted was years ago, in retail outlets on board cruise liners. Things have got a lot smaller and a lot cleverer since so I'll watch this with interest.

Same here. A good few of my 'qualified' mates still ring little ol' me when something complex crops up

£4k and up for anything tidy. My mates Grand Canyon 7- seater iirc was around £7k with all the trinkets. £280 for the crane to get it into his back garden. That got a few curtains twitching as it was a narrow street and about a 35o incline ! Crane was jacked up on a van load of railway sleepers. The crane driver was a legend.