Nickfromwales

What make are they ? Just sounds like the flush plates have been pressing on the actuator rods which push the flush mechanism. They're on threads so you just turn them in a turn or two and try again. A pic of the flush plate may help

HG range has always been my choice. HG

Looking good

UFH aluminium spreader plate is what I'd recommend. If you can add 2x1 battens then you can leave a gap each end to loop the pipes which is 1000 times easier than looping under.

Isnt the 22mm one the original hot feed from the cylinder? +1 on the soft copper, not on there. Can you get to one of those compression couplers and swap it out to a compression tee?

Cheaper, but poorer performing, so not necessarily a good alternative. However, if you put 250mm of it in, it'll be cheaper and not far off as good, overall. If you have the oversight then you have a structural subfloor. That indeed means you can go 75mm of dry sand / cement screed. Over the geocell, im not sure if you would still be safer reinforcing. Yup. You need to make the two loops the same length each so they dont go out of balance, eg one side of the room warms up sooner etc, ( or as close as you can get it ). You dont want 100m and 25m making up a 125m zone Lag the flow of the longest runs where they pass through other zones to get where they're going. Thisll also help stop overheating the floor where there are lots of pipes coming from the manifold If going for thinner screed, go for tighter centres. Id go for 100 or 150, given that you can run slightly lower flow temps if you have more water volume in the floor. No formulas with me mate, im from the back streets Just use the force, me.

We'll just tear the last few pages out of this thread when were all done. Still giggling to myself. Quality. @newhome = new dark horse.

That just made my week mate.

I swear I haven't laughed so much in ages. My kids came and asked why I was crying PMSL x34

No, he's just tight

Wasn't it your wife who requested the arse-level MVHR exhaust outlets?

Thanks for sharing

Its all good The inks free.

@newhome Digressions are a part of everyday life here so dont worry, it'll all be ok in the end.

Does the immersion ever nuisance trip / overheat stat kick out?

Lots of ex girlfriends undies knowing Nick They're probably still wondering where they're gone. And no, you cant make this any worse, either of you.

I do worry about you. New T&C's coming soon......including a CRB

Prob best Lagging all the pipework is more critical than people give credit to. With a TS, and within my proposal to pull this system into line, will be the addition of motorised valves on the boiler flow, the 2x UFH flows, and the provision of an anti-gravity convection valve on the primary feed to the DHW PHE so no unwanted heat flow occurs the the system is in 'standby' eg between heating input events / summer mode, so the ST is kept purely for DHW. That TS has, if Telford's is anything to go by, around 40mm of injected PIR under the full metal jacket, so shouldn't be too shabby.

Isn't steaming fish healthier?

Speak to the plumber and ask. If you dont you may miss it for a song if its not free.

It fills a LOT of the inside of the TS. I used to think the same. I should add thats from the Telford ones ive bought with the 46kw 28mm coils. Of course we dont know with this one.

Thats bedroom 3 gone then Good news from the guys that supplied the boiler. It can be programmed to revert to open pipe and ignore the low pressure cut-out / fault switch. Thats the PHE and the PHE pump out of the window, and the boiler free to pump at full wallop directly into the TS. Why the feck they didn't do that originally is beyond me. Hey-Ho.

Once set up correctly you'll be able to run bath after bath. And an adequate shower would be able to be left running pretty much 24/7

Actually, id suggest the above is a good candidate for a Sunamp Dual-port, for the higher grade DHW production, and leave the far cheaper lower grade heat in the TS provide much of the bathing temperature water. Only a small amount of 'boost' is needed to get kitchen / utility / hand wash temp water so I'd seriously consider putting money into that rather than into the UVC, even more so if the money for buying the buffer has been saved and the size of the boost device subsequently reduced by the size of the 'new' buffer

Or when looking to max out the TS prior to the electric boiler switching off for 2 hours, in line with the E2000 tariff, too. When in service, renewables ( ST in this instance ) set aside for a moment, the TS wont ever really turn off. It'll be constantly pulsing heat in, as its removed by the space heating, and then again on top of that should DHW be needed too. It could be set to DHW priority, as the last job I did was, so space heating cannot be drawn whilst DHW is, so maximising the capability of the TS to provide bulk DHW with ease. A bit of an answer about sizing, eg you can cheat a smaller TS into behaving like a bigger one with a bit of clever control, so basically make it behave like a combi boiler ( which will only do heating OR hot water never the two at the same time ).