Nickfromwales

Nearly 5 days left on that auction plus 10m is borderline useless. . Chuck the length you have on here in the Marketplace section .

My £80 3-way valve has a chrome over solid brass faceplate The plastic Grohe faceplate is a good 1/4" thick, and prob made of plastic to facilitate the click in sliding push-button receivers. The shower select 2 is a stop / start shower so again may not be everyone's cup of tea, but the valve is restricted by design, so no jetwash problems like you get with the Bristan / other sequential valves.

Dave. Make sure you don't get a 2-knob valve which is "sequential". One in your OP says you turn the temperature control to start the water flowing and you continue to rotate it to get the temp higher. Crap. You get full flow rate from the get-go with no throttle control so the handset needs an inline restrictor to stop it being like a pressure washer. You can get a 2-knob valve which has temp on one knob and flow to either outlet on the other ( 12 o'clock to 9 or 12 o'clock to 3 ) but graduated flow say 25% to 100% so you don't necessarily need 3 knobs to get the same result.

A wet cutter is the first choice for the cleanest cut IMO, but when using the 4" grinder I always make sure I use a continuous rim blade so it cuts as smoothly as possible.

I had a Sigma, deliciously simple compared to Rubi, but on the day I replaced it ( after it was nicked ) I went all Rubi. The type of tile your referring to is 'riven'. A riven ceramic is a pig, as the peaks often shatter and you lose the surface pattern / colour. With a riven porcelain you won't have as bad an issue. Secret is, the correct sized cutter wheel for the application, not using excessive down-force with the cutter, and being committed to the snap action ( a good shove rather than pushing gently gets the cleanest break ).

If I can't spell it, I can't deny it

Can you PM me first, roughly 5 mins before I need to panic. Just want a head start

@ProDave Any chance you could copy these into the Glossary thread when you get a spare 5 mins please?

Don't get any on the flat mating surfaces of the pump or valves, ( where the rubber sealing washers press against ).

Just rotate the wee beastie before finally tightening the nuts up. Simples.

You can get a length of 15mm copper in by forcing it, and then straightening it back up when it's in there. Tricky at 300 centres but 400 & 600 isn't difficult. Something you have to do if running gas . 22mm is simply cut into 800-900mm lengths or whatever will go up and then joined with straight, soldered connectors. Standards for clipping cables and pipes is basic common sense from the relevant trades, so unless your doing this yourself you should really be asking your chosen trade and then double checking here that they're proposal is sound. With posijoists this really couldn't be easier, but the main consideration almost always forgotten is penetrations through the steel UB's ( for soil pipes / mvhr and other items that cannot jump over / under with reasonable ease / practicality ) so I think that should compliment this thread too as one affects the other. A couple of holes for pipes & ducts plus a couple of letterboxes in the steels for cables and small bore plumbing should be factored in at the design stage. Only made easy if you get the trades on board early to knock heads, or have someone do some basic M&E design on your behalf, or use a good PM and engage them early enough for this to be facilitated. Quite a major one imo.

Bombproof that way .

Maybe a good idea to have some 300mm tie bars drilled at angles ( dovetailed ) poking through the shuttering to tie the two slabs together after the initial pour, or you'll be left with a small floating section which won't be great.

Very surprised to see that they didn't spec or even insist on alu spreader plates to get the heat out of the loops upstairs. Should hopefully be able to cheat that by running the 1st floor flow temp a good bit hotter than downstairs. Make it a double

One of the issues you may be getting with the upstairs heating is poor performance as there are no aluminium spreader plates to effectively get the heat from the pipes into the flooring. . Deffo need the independent manifolds with their own flow temp control, so you can run the flow cooler downstairs and much hotter upstairs to compensate. Not ideal, but I think your getting used to hearing that now .

I take it you'll shutter off around the shower trap and the last 300mm of pipe to it? .

NEVER!!!!!!!!

And the pump MUST lay perfectly flat or the front wet bearing will run dry and burn the pump out prematurely. The pic seems to show it slightly uphill.

What are you pouring ? Remind me if your screeding / liquid / concrete?

Why not just run a SWA cable from each house out to the locality of the plant supply. A c-form socket on an up stand at the end of each and then a c-form plug on the plant supply. If one supply fails, you just unplug from one and plug into the other. Simples. Obviously it's a no-brainer, whilst excavating anyway, to fit two new pumping stations and sort this mess once and for all . Edit to add : Do as Dave says and have these as dedicated supplies direct off the mains NOT out of the CU's.

TLC Direct 200 degree

Following on from this post How many any of the rooms have the UFH piped that way eg just laying in between the battens over the insulation? Is the entire first floor piped like that ? Are all the ground floor loops in screed?

It may just be a case of adjusting the turn screw that governs how high the water level gets before the float valve stops the water from filling any higher. Should be an easy fix tbh.

Wireless or hard wired?

Let me know when the snow melts .