Nickfromwales

Yes, but then you'd have said he went over budget

You'll need a buffer tank. You'll also need a manifold that does not rely on a cool / cold return to blend the UFH flow temp. See my last for the type of manifold you'll need. Choose your controls VERY wisely as you'll need a narrow hysteresis to regulate heat output with a thinner screed / slab, otherwise you'll be going hot / cool / hot / cool.....instead of staying 'warm'.

Only for hydraulic separation eg if glycol was present. After that, integral coil EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.

Get the DHW preheat as an integral coil!!!!! PHE and pump / flow switch = PITA.....losses......complexity......grief.

You'll be better off with a capillary probe / blending type then, rather than a traditional TMV. Check out the Ivar Dualmix for eg.

Looks like your the BH test pilot for those then

That one is staying .

Some other manifolds I've seen have been smaller bore and noisy when flowing. Be interesting to see how they perform. My difficulty is experimenting in customers houses, or fitting what I know works reliably.

The madras I had didn't help. Went beyond that lasers range !

You get what you pay for

No pressure then Jeez

Or we could go next level crazy with this extraordinary piece of technological wizardry

My fault for teasing. The DHW PHE pump sucks hot out of the top and returns it into the very bottom, thus 'stirring the pot'. That pump is controlled by the DHW flow switch, but seeing that cock end bypassed the relays that ran that pump ( and the HR pump ) and used the flow switch to run them direct it went into meltdown and ran the pump to its early death ( hence why the TS wouldn't hold heat for long after the boilers timed burn after cock end "fixed it" ). Out of the top and down into the PHE behind the DHW TMV. Out of the PHE, down through the DHW circulation pump, And into the lower 1/3 of the tank. Those little stats work well, as without that DHW pump running the heat can be seen to work its way down the tank. .

Could you knock something up on CAD for me ?

This photo shows the controls that we retained ( that cock plumber fitted ). Polyfiller time...........

Upper reading And the lower one. The weird world of the TS. Work that shit out. !

What insulation and thickness? What screed / concrete and thickness? Heat source? Hold off choosing the manifold because it's going to be decided by the floor construction and heat source / type ( not by your plumber )

Lol .

Enjoy.

.....is the right answer. .

Not entirely. On this one there will still be a hot return pump ( yet to be fitted in the pipe directly above that pump ) which only returns from the furthest hot outlet, the kitchen sink. For this installation I set it up so that the hot to the kitchen sink is the furthest manifold outlet away from the manifold supply inlet, so the hot return travels through all the large bore hot pipework from the water heater ( Sunamp ) and all the way through the hot manifold, and in doing so it pre-heats the whole manifold, thus killing off the dead leg that would otherwise exist. Manifolds, unless directly off the hot water device, still cause an issue because they need large bore runs tobthwm before they reduce accordingly, but they do reduce losses vs traditional series plumbed installations, so each case has to be designed specifically and will be unique.

City plumbing are very expensive on any tidy brand of bathroom ware. I have NEVER been able to use them and I have an account there. . Ask for the materials budget figure and procure direct, you'll save 4 figures. HR are a good brand, around the same as Vado. Middle of the road on quality ( which is ample and come with good warranty ) and plenty good enough. For the 4 rooms I'd order from Megabad and have the Grohe / HansGrohe stuff for the same money. You need to focus on this and not be steered by the builder .

At £20 for 5 kilos that bal works out £80 a bag . Way OT ( F ) T.

'Was' being the operative word