Nickfromwales

Over-thinking ? I did a knock-through in a 3 storey brick town house where the single skin brick wall separating the 1st and 2nd reception rooms was in fact continuous to the room-in-roof where it was further loaded by purlin struts. SINGLE skin On top of all that was of course the bearing of the 1st and 2nd floor joists which lapped through this brick wall at each floor junction. Go 140mm block as @Brickie suggested and sleep well, or go single block 100mm and create a nearly full height buttress the other side of the wall where the head of the stairs drops down, so a bit like a feature newel just around twice the width. Will look like it grew there. Will the stairs be open-plan or stud and cupboard ?

Some porcelains stain too Had a customer order 110m2 of 600x600mm jasmine and we did the full tests on it....permanent marker pen, red wine, tea bag, and a dollop of spag-bol. FAIL ! The wine and tea bag stains were there for life, we tried everything to get them off but in the end Porcelanosa had to exchange them and bring a similar tile, which passed with flying teabags colours. Sealing a porous tile once isn't a lifetime solution, they need constant re-sealing throughout their lifetime, the frequency of which is dictated by the traffic and the type of. In a shower area you'll be sealing them at least once a year, in an entrance lobby, even as much as twice a year. How long had those tiles been down in your friends house, and have you asked them about cleaning / maintenance ?

I mentioned a job in a very expensive property, where their upstairs UVC turned into an indoor water feature due to incorrect installation. When I got there I put my pressure gauge on the outside tap and it went off the scale and destroyed my gauge in an instant. Over 10 bar I recon, deffo not less than 9 thats for sure, coming in on a 50mm supply. You could have run a hotel off it. Cause was; No balanced supply to the cold side of the mixer outlets, so UVC was getting back-fed <10bar whenever the mixers were opened slightly. Result, EV ruptured internally, then slowly rusted out, and then the EV burst catastrophically. When I corrected the issue by putting a second ( primary ) PRedV at the stopcock, all was well. I then got a phone call from the guys wife saying the showers were miserable compared to how they we're before ( no bloody surprise there luv !!! ). Same issue you have, made worse when a couple of outlets were opened simultaneously. Cure; I opened the primary PRedV up by another .5 bar ( from 3 to 3.5 ) and that increased the dynamic flow considerably. I explained to them that the wonderful pressure and flow they had been "enjoying" is what caused the system to fail and the house to be flooded, so they then accepted the lesser but still adequate flow rates. Try adjusting by 0.5 bar and see how that affects things, but don't forget you need to adjust it with a balanced hot or cold outlet flowing slowly to get an accurate reading. With the outlet flowing, adjust slightly, close the outlet and let the pressure settle. Repeat until you get it spot on. Once happy, adjust the EV pre-charge pressure to suit the new inlet pressure. Always a good place to start.

Did you put that one through a lathe ? ?

Cool. Just beware of any mediocre attempts at fobbing you off with something that isn't tried and tested for this type of situation. Please keep us posted !

Mange tout, rodders, mange tout.

Drawn on a chip wrapper.........that I borrowed off someone. The joists need bolting into the webs. Then you retrospectively add the joist hangers to connect the existing joists to the joists in the web. No potatos were were harmed in the making of this post. Well, just a few. And the sausage won't be the same ever again either. Can't argue with that ?

If no walls etc above then why not go for steel, load the webs with 6x2" joists planed to make them fit flush, cut the existing floor joists out to the width of the steel, and push the steel up into the 1st floor joist void? Flush ceiling down below, and then if you want you can make a false oak beam that's purely cosmetic.

Cos if the battery is hot, the charger will refuse to charge it until the fan cooling built into the charger ( which blows air through the vented battery ) brings the temp down. That can take 5-10 mins before charging commences. Also charge times are only important if you run a battery down soon enough to make it a problem. Im flat out on a good day so have a dual charger, a single charger and 7 batteries. Dual charger is the mutts nuts and has a USB port for your phone etc.

That's what I meant ?

I would put full sheets of 25mm PIR under ( so on top of ) the joists to stop the cold bridge, and use foil tape to cover the joins and create your VCL. Two birds, one stone, and a far better job IMO.

This one is vibrating already so bin it is. Caught a piece of 5" MDF skirt in it and the offcut literally exploded. Had the afternoon off after filling my nappy. I think it's the only bit of kit that I genuinely fear. ?

DeWalt DWS 780 XPS 305mm x 3mm tooth, 60T x 30 Extreme blade. Was not a cheap blade, so sharpen or bin ? Thought was to keep this for blasting through 4x2 but TBH a cheap blade with a lot less teeth would suffice. Need a 60T for the fine work ( as I'm starting to look at getting back into the swing of things ) so dusting off the big toys now and a few things need servicing / attention. ? Bonjour !

Step from the dark into the light, brother Dave.

That's basically a posh version of what was on @newhome's solar thermal system. A PRV that just terminates in the empty 5 or 7.5 L glycol container. That's all it needs to be tbh, so @ProDave you could just plonk one behind the UVC and have nowt outside. Your simply never going to blow off more than a couple of litres or so, plus nothing horrible or blue to discolour the landscaping outside.

Yup and yup.

Just going by what Telford said guv'ner, put away the cat 'o nine tails . Maybe they just gave me the current order I have in which has the larger coil in it.

Good save lol .

You can get a fitting that'll go 25x15mm iirc. Link "Stick that in your pipe and....connect it".

Just too much heat, it's blatantly obvious so no need to think about it . Just re-solder as per my last and it'll be all gravy, baby. ?

~ 21 L.

I'll put money on it that they don't leak ( after you doing the remedial post-soldering ) but I'd be quietly confident regardless.

Yup, hence my previous regarding putting it inside the ASHP with a pipe to ground. As you can't do that, just an insulated blow off with a street bend facing down and zero pipework will be A1. Rain based frost will be your enemy, possibly seizing the operational head of the PRV, but at those temps your pipework should be warm to hot anyhoo.

I very much doubt you've caused the weld to not form by overshooting the sweet spot. They may not look it, given that you've actually started to anneal the copper there, but the weld would have formed long before that. Re-solder as per my instruction and report the results #2. .

You need the strap not the bracket for the lip-less smaller vessels. +£10 to go to the 18Litre version.