Nickfromwales

There I think

@AliG had some nice stuff going that route iirc.

First point is moot as single pole switching in a central heating system is always either upsteam or downstream of suitable means of double pole ( dedicated ) isolation. Your precious contactor will, in normal service, be fed by a single pole MCB and not even that will be seen as routine isolation as a well designed system will not see you going into the fuse board to isolate for servicing. MCB are fault devices NOT isolators. Most MIs will call for such equipment to have “a means of LOCAL double pole isolation with a contact separation of at least 3mm” so the solid state relay would first be fed from either a 13a DP fused spur or a 20a DP switch which would be identified as the equipments means of local isolation. Are you saying a SS relay wouldn’t do the job? Without the clunk? A brief tutorial and please see the section on Solid State Relay Output Circuit where the primary example scenario is based on switching heating loads. Game, set and match.....”New balls please” ?

You like the arc’ing and clonking of the contactors ? Electormechanical vs solid state ? ?

For reliability I’d go for a solid state relay to switch the Willis heaters. One relay per Willis.

Infinitely more problematic and complex as you’d need floor probes to stop the slab getting too hot as well as a blended manifold and room stat. The problem would be the higher w/m2 that would be required, and that can only be overcome by chucking more heat into the floor. Theres only so hot you can make the floor in a domestic dwelling so your limited. Also you’d need to put much more pipe into the floor to facilitate the higher energy input, eg more loops and bigger manifolds. Plus you’d need VERY accurate room thermostats like @JSHarris has to stop any over / under shoot. I’ve walked away from a LOT of retro fit Ufh jobs where the punter remained unconvinced that Ufh was a very bad idea a) off fossil fuel and b) in a high energy consuming dwelling. Rads are quick and cheap...... and effective too.

A bog that projects out halfway into the room. Trust me, I’ve fitted some weird shit in my time.

Just not going to happen. The soil run in the attic is brand new and run way above the standard normally done by ‘plumbers’. Chill Winston.

It’s going in facking BOLD next time I’ve got to say it. ??

It’s not us, it’s the ceramic suppliers worldwide and different types of bogs. Close coupled / semi back to wall / fully back to wall / super deep etc etc and then all the designer labels. 7” centres from floor to centre of outlet horizontally is a standard throughout though.

No such thing as standard I’m afraid. What I do is have the soil pipe right back against the plaster / allowing for a tile etc and buy ( fit ) whichever WC you want at the time. If a direct bent pan connector won’t reach, simply go to a good quality flexi pan connector.

Tossa ?

Where in this lovely warm country are you ?

Rear tile went on first. Then chrome trims ( cut slowly in the chopsaw between two pieces of sacrificial PAR timber to minimise F.O.D. ). Then the left and right tiles. Leave to set. Then the base tile. Leave to set. Then the head. All tiles colour matched siliconed into place so when I pushed them home the excess silicone squeezed out of the trims / mitres / and gaps between tiles and trims. It gets everywhere but the baby wipes clean up in minutes.

You LOVE a few stickers.

Watch the film "Karate Kid" 1 & 2 and be ready to attack. ?

110%. That would be my number one worry with metal roof and no dense insulation. That coupled with a 30mm layer of PIR foil faced and taped would make the roof a lot easier too detail too imo. Plus you really would want to clear the cold bridge, again imo.

??

You dont put a thermostatic head on those If you did, and the plant room got hot, the TRV head would expand and close the feed to the entire pump / manifold set. They are for shutting the UFH on/off and have an actuator on IF required. In this instance they just need to be hand tight. Good point though as @lizzie can check that the one thats fitted is loose and not part tight eg part chocking the flow. Its the one under the Thermo head ( with the coiled pig-tail wire ), one cap is on and one is missing. The one thats on needs to be finger tight so turn anticlockwise until it spins freely and then just one turn back clockwise.

You can have a few cheap tile cutters. they'll be at the end of the Mumbles Pier under 12' of water Bring your ( no doubt home made ) snorkel and flippers.

Rear first. I'll upload some pics in the morning of the one I did yesterday ?

I think id be asking them to remove the wires chop chop. DNO's are a law unto themselves and constantly dictate to and piss on 'the little people'. FYI the pikies use 4' lengths of heavy gauge chain to drop OH lines so they can nick the copper. They swing it furiously whilst standing directly under the lines and then fling it upwards whilst its still spinning. Wrap > flash > loud bang > £300 worth of scrap Kick some ass in a lady-like fashion of course.

Tilings fun isn't it I swear if I never have to tile anything ever agin it'll be too soon, ive done my fair share

Yup. Tile the vertical wall all the way up first and then mitre bond the trims on so you can set the mitres perfectly. Then do the two side tiles, then the base tile, leave to set and do the top with stilts to hold it up off the base tile.

Big nasty gun that fires short nails into steel. Dont point at your foot lol.