Nickfromwales

Nothing worse than putting lipstick on a pig Pay for disposal and start afresh. I wouldn't want to spend a lot of time in there tbh with its ( the asbestos' ) integrity unknown.

Hi. Assume you mean to remove and dispose of the asbestos sheets and start from scratch?

Wring them for some vouchers. Reply that you are looking to be compensated for their incompetence in restocking an item that should have gone into the discount bin and sold as parts missing / unknown returns, as you took an unpaid day off work to complete the job. Send it to the CEO, its only going to cost you 5 mins at the end of the day.

I think that flooding the cell with thermistors and getting an accurate cell-wide average temp reading could work well. Do away with the 50/90 setting ( for the PV > DHW model only ) and just have one max threshold where anything at or close to 75oC ( cell average temperature ) allows electrical input. 75oC or above = satisfied. This remains open-ended though, as you really need a SoC indicator to correctly identify if you still need to perform a manual boost or not ( insufficient excess PV in that 24hr period ). Other than that, boost is a guessing game. At least with a load of thermistors the ctrl PCB would have the ability to gather and offer this info to an LCD display, giving the end user at least some indication. With a bit of additional logic and an integral clock, the unit could self diagnose and perform its own boost cycle where it knows it hasn't received sufficient PV input. I imagine SA would reply that you don't get that with an UVC or dumb copper tank, but with those there is no box of tricks actively stopping energy input at any point, just excess PV chucked at a dumb immersion heater that has its own thermostat. I think SA need to adopt that simple approach and bin the complex control logic ( and the not so complex means of temp referencing that they currently are suffering from with the seemingly unreliable 3 thermistors on the daisy chain ). This isn't so much of a problem if SA is an excess only device eg pre-heat to an UVC or Combi boiler, but very much so if this is the only means of providing DHW to a dwelling.

Ok. This is getting beyond complicated. Lets cut through the thicket and get to basics. First off. Have you actually ascertained that you need active cooling or is it a comfort requirement only? If so, my 2 penneth; Keep your gas boiler as backup and add the cheapest ASHP you can get your hands on. ( Also you referred to this as an open flue boiler, which I don't believe it is. Could you please clarify that it does indeed vent to atmosphere via a coaxial 100mm flue through the wall? ) Use the ASHP to provide background heat from PV when required, and to provide cooling when the sun is causing trouble. FYI, you do not drive cooling into a buffer tank, you drive that directly to the slab as you don't benefit from a cold tank ;). Switch to gas when the sun is poor / infrequent so any PV generation goes towards your base loads, lights, plug in loads etc. Best of both worlds then, as you'll be fully utilising PV and burning cheap gas when necessary. I wouldn't suggest this tbh but as you've already gone and bought and fitted a gas boiler its now an exercise to make the most from what you have. I'd recommend just adding a Sunamp, mostly for size but also for simplicity, and feed that with pre-heated cold mains water from the buffer DHW PHE. That way you can use the ASHP to provide uplift, use PV to fortify both the buffer and the SA, you can reduce the size ( and cost ) of the SA, and you can keep the existing buffer tank + PHE ( as I assume these are also already bought? ). You said earlier that you don't like / want and UVC as you wanted this to be a DIY hot water install. WRONG. When you heat a cylinder ( unless its an open / vented TS ) and that cylinder has a volume of 15L or more, it requires a G3 installation and sign off + ongoing annual G3 inspection. Exactly what type of cylinder do you currently have ? ?

Naaah, probably the handset was too big and wouldn't fit between their legs when they were trying to wash their arse crack. ?

I don't usually bother as they have an adverse affect in the winter. Their the crudest of stats and I haven't fitted one for prob over a decade, other than in rentals where the Tennant only understands noises.

You said you opened it and checked Should have gone to Specsavers?

Water would have come out as they're wet tested by QC At least you can wash ?

Not really good enough for PH or UFH afaic. Wiring doesn't affect the hysteresis, it just makes it work

And the symptom of crap room stat with huge hysteresis giving over and under shoot of the stat set point.

I could always take them hostage, then you could sneak in and repair it in stealth mode. ?

Good girl ?

Should be a relatively easy fix though.

Yup. I wonder how long the chrome plated plastic will last ?

If the room is toasty at 5am then the flap is not shutting or the boost is not set to minimum. No, it would have wasted all the heat instead of storing it, and then left you with nothing to use during the day.

A pic of what you've got I meant

Get the screwfix one, I can't wait that long

Q1 Do you have two switches on the wall / skirting board ( next to the heater ) or one ?

100%. Fit a new mixer and start from there. I think all the problems will go with a working unit. Flow restriction on startup will be minimised then too, so should negate the holding down of the handset to get things flowing. Or change it to a tank-fed electric unit.

Erm.....by the auxiliary switch I kept mentioning? That'll bring it on on demand. Other than that it is already turned on, as the primary switch is turned on is it not? I think we're banging our heads against a brick wall without pics as if you're setup is not generic then we're pissing in the wind here Also it's a convector heater not a radiator.

If you went fishing for 4 hours and drank 1 cup of coffee an hour then you'd need 4 cups worth stored in the flask. If you need a lot of heat the following day you need to store the max amount of heat in the 7 hour window between 00:00 and 07:00 so you don't run out of stored heat. That's simple. "FOCUS!" Heat rises, so the the flap that were on about is not the flap on the controls. It's a full length metal flap at the underside of the heater that stops air getting in thus massively restricting convention heat flow ( hot air out ) eg keeping it stored in the heater until you actually want to let it out ( by opening the flap via the boost control ). Once you open the flap, cold air gets sucked in the bottom of the heater and gets heated by the bricks. That is where the hot air flow out of the top comes from. What comes out must be able to get in, so the wider your flaps open ( ? ) the more heat ( warm air flow ) you'll get out. The more you get out, the faster it'll run out of stored heat energy. Disclaimer : Thats the most number of times I've used the word flaps without my alter ego Finbarr Saunders making it onto the stage.

Change to E10 and then you'll be able to use offpeak rate between 1pm and 4pm to warm you again in the afternoon. Order of events, as is, on E7; cold heater from previous days use 00:00, Off peak kicks in and starts 'recharging' the heat bricks until 07:00 slight heat output as the heater heats, so the room should not be 'freezing', but that can be incrementally increased by setting the boost to 2 instead of 1 ( minimum ) you accept the fact that storage heaters are utter shite and wear a jumper all day at 17:00-18:00 you select 3 or 4 on boost dial and release more heat into the room for the evening until the aforementioned box of shite runs out of stored heat you freeze at night waiting for ABOS to reheat enough to start giving off incidental heat again from ~01:00 Or you use peak electricity to boost in the daytime. There should be an auxiliary switch at the side of the heater which is connected to the peak rate meter. When that's switche on you can get electricity ( heat ) whenever you want it, but use it at your peril as it'll cost ya! Oh, and forgetting to switch it off will be equally painful when you get your electricity bill. Or..... you get E10 and enjoy the 1pm to 4pm on cheap rate e.g. No need to boost with the auxiliary switch and no use of peak juice. Poost a pic of your heater thing at yours as I've no clue what it is or how it works without something to go on

Did you think this thread would be either a) simple or b) straightforward ? "sucker!"

Can't you just feel which pipe gets hot ?