Nickfromwales

Only as long as the board will go back down to the floor, but not ideal as you'll break the tanked seal. Go with option 1 IMO. Youll also not be able to get screws back at the absolute bottom of the board, so maybe not a good idea at all.

Get on with it then All sounds / looks good from here. If you tank the wall up to 300mm and leave it dry, then fit the tray, you'll need to use cement to patch that wall in after. Mask the tray with insulation tape, so the trowelling doesn't scratch it. I assume you know to peel the protective layer off just enough to expose the edges / top 30mm or so and leave the rest on for the moment?

The aforementioned legislation may still kick your arse then

I wonder how much actually gets enforced? ? Did your BCO ask for ( G3 ) certification for your UVC install?

And don't buy a TS ?

Nope, it was a TS. Open pipe one with a header tank. Referred to, IIRC, as a combination tank. Good point about the inherent additional losses with that though, apples with apples

You would do yourself a favour if you read @JSHarris blog as he did exactly all of this, and then binned his TS. At the very least fit an UVC, other than that a SA ( as Jeremy fitted ) will have the lowest losses in the marketplace. About 2x the cost of the equivalent UVC though. Edit : SA = Sunamp

T'will be shitted up with the scale, and the seal will likely give up. Change the seal at the very least, but they're not expensive tbh. If you've no PV and don't use it then fit the existing one back in. New seal though, as a leak would be 'not nice'.

It should descale a little on the heat exchanger with heat / cool cycles, hence the pile of crud in the bottom that @ProDave has to scoop out. Just whip the immersion out, use a wet and dry vac with a soft end and suck the crud out. You don't need G3 unless your fiddling with safety valves etc. Needless to say, don't re-fit the same immersion Buy a new one.

OK, what exactly is the question? From the above it sounds like you've dry fitted it into place already, as you sate it's a tight fit. Are you able to lift it vertically from the 'front' edge and hold it there whilst you squeeze some goop underneath / over the floor? You can buy some clear rubber / silicone hose and tape it to the silicone gun nozzle to get into the back / far corners whilst the tray is up at an angle for eg, but that can be done away with if the tray will go fully vertical. Needless to say, you shouldn't be doing this on your own, so don't be a dick and get some help. Just someone to hold the tray from dropping whilst you squirt the goop about. If using CT1 / similar ( thicker than silicone ) then you'll need £2 coin sized blobs every 100mm to support the tray sufficiently. Anything less will not support it whilst the goop cures, for eg, if it was silicone used then the tray would just naturally drop as the silicone displaced, so the tray would not necessarily stay level but just follow the floor as it displaces too much. Prior to fitting the tray, have you tanked 300mm or so up the wall? You using tiles or panels?

Hi @dnb Why would you not broaden your options and fit a water softener? The aggressive hardness will not just affect the hot water device, but everything else there too!!

But what a collection of pants he must have.....

And there was me thinking it was causing bar fights, moaning about scaffolders and scratching your over-exposed hairy asres. I've got it so wrong......

Welcome aboard

Strange, but true ?. Doubling up on the sole plate it is for you then. ?

Nothing wrong with that, as long as that cupboard doesn't house perishables. Dont fix to the unit, fix to the wall so the cupboard doesn't turn into a drum

Assumed the question was about if the studwork was already in situ. @dpmiller ?

If I'm studding, I would lay 2 pieces of stud ( so same width as the sole plate ) and give myself something decent to fix the skirting to later down the road. Quicker and cheaper to do 2 pieces stood upright to give you the most height for fixing, and just work out what thickness of plywood ( usually 6mm ( 44mm stud x 2 = 88mm so 6mm short of the average stud depth of 92mm )) to fit in between them to keep the infill flush to the stud-work. This is normally done from waste / off cuts anyway so should have little cost impact. Remember to use DPM / DPC between the screed and the timber !

I’ve always used normal ply and regular PVA as I’m the one doing the job. If there’s any doubt, then change over to Hardie backer board and go balls-out

6mm minimum screwed at 100mm centres. If it’s a big room then you may also want to use a 2mm notched trowel and bed the ply down into neat PVA. 23 years on, and I’ve not lost a patient yet. Add thickness to the ply if it makes sense eg to help marry the tray / floor junction, but 6mm will do it no probs. ?

I think I agree with @ProDave, in that it should just pull back. Even though it will distort slightly, you can simply feed the screen in at the top where it isn't distorted, and then push it in as you work downwards to get the whole screen into the profile.

D section. Smaller size if poss but ripped down to make long bow shaped infills.

Stick with the thicker slab, and save the worry. The additional losses with the Poitier insulation may translate into a few quid per year of wasted energy, but to have cracks in your polished floor will be irreparable or cost more than 10 years worth of losses to have put right professionally. The losses will be divided by 3 on average also as you’re using an ASHP to provide the heat energy, which is a multiplier. Go for E10 if possible and heat the slab in those off-peak windows and then it’ll be cheaper again to run. Have the stat set to do setback temps during the peak rate times, so it runs at a lower temp whilst peak rate is available further reducing losses. You can squeeze a few more drops of efficiency out by a bit of thoughtful use, and that’ll offset the higher losses, but remember that you’re not going to be all that much better off in reality adding just another 25mm of insulation If we were taking about adding another 50-75mm then I’d perhaps say you should reconsider.

A bit harsh ? As you said a bit further on, just pack the middle with something non-ferrous ( steel washers vs alu might have an electrolytic action? ), mask the wall and the channels, pump the void full of clear CT1, square off with a plastic scraper, de-mask and then pvc D-section both sides to suit. Not pretty, but 800 times better than whothefeckever suggested cutting a slot into the tiles ??????

It'll require some effort, but is perfectly do-able