Nickfromwales

Yes, apart from you don’t need to check his gas, unless he has altered the gas supply or flue. Do you have a pic of the expansion vessel for the UVC? Should be white or silver, about the size of a football or a bit bigger. Let’s check the ? out of this eh ?

Ok woody. Just can’t believe it’s not been connected to the boiler Gas is way cheaper !!!!!

No. You can dry install anything you like. It’s when you set it to work the liability instantly shifts completely on to the person who commissioned it. End of chat. Hes not allowed to do either. Fcuking course is like £180 and under so guys a penis.

Long and short is, he’s not qualified to work in unvented and therefore he cannot sign it off or register it. Simples.

G3 is the standard. They make this so chuffing easy.

Should read.....then into the zone valve ? Immersion is direct from the spur and has its own 2 step thermostatic regulation.

Not.

Have the builder and the new guy meet so the new guy can list the fcuk ups Easier for you to get paid ( make uncontested deduction ) then ?

Jesus. This guys underpants are going TNT overnight so he gets them to wear tomorrow. I’ve never, in 23 years on the tools, seen someone cut into a boiler PRV to add D2. AND ALL IN 15mm !!!!? Needs to be 22mm to tundish from outside, as long as the hydruluc ( calculated ) run isn’t >12m. If you tee into the boiler PRV then that too would need a tundish / air break and the downstream pipe work upsized to prob 28 or 35mm. Scrotum.

The reason it needs bigger pipe on D2 ( the open part of the tundish ) is because the 15mm D1 is forced out under pressure, whereas the D2 only has gravity to rely on for the water to drain away naturally. With the invert so close to the tundish, I'd have run that in 28mm. At the very least the first elbow after the tundish should have been a bend pulled in a pipe bending machine to give a nice radius. Its so easy to just do right, when you're already there with your tools out.

Ninja ! Did you get any issues with 'squeaking' or 'creaking' at all ? What m2 areas were they if you dont mind me asking? Ive only done smaller spaces with that, as all of the others have been in spreader plates.

Check out the Wunda Overlay system, link. You'll need to bond this system all down, so the issue will be, exactly how level is the B&B floor ? You may need to get some sharp sand and slid the B&B first to get it like a mill pond, because whatever you lay modular material on ( like 8x4's of insulation ) will be the floor you end up with. Check out their YT videos The heat is diffused by aluminium 'foil' facing on the upper side of the overlay panels, and its pretty damn efficient at emitting heat upwards. A~s you'll be asked to bond the floor down to this in most cases you'll end up with a floor that feels rock solid too. You'll need either more pipe or two manifolds if you have two differing types of emitters, eg slab and overlay mixed in the same dwelling, as the overlay will typically require a higher flow temp to get the same w/m2.

And even then the penis cant do it right! Jeez x2. 22mm D2 minimum pipe size. Maybe print him a few copies off to give to his previous victims?

"anyone seen my UVC ?"

Just for a bit of sanity, not ONE of my UVC install customers has EVER had a drip through their ceiling, and EVERY ONE has a tundish. Loads have been in attics btw I may go and spray some underpants with gold paint and give this guy the 2018............... “talking out of my arse” award. ?

No and fcuking NO! This guys a total prick. He’s admitting going around making installations lethal. FM! The picture he’s sent you clearly shows water has been running OVER that tundish not THROUGH it. We’ve got a real live one here Im stuck for words, and that is some achievement I can tell you. I woukd 1000% be getting an independent inspection done by someone not known to either you or the fitter. You’ll soon see the rap sheet filling up. Still love to know if he’s done the balanced feeds. I’ll bet my spare ribs he hasn’t. If you ring Telford they’ll give you the number of a local G3 installation agent that they use for maintenance / repairs etc. My mate went through a divorce and let his lapse on a big job so I rang Telford and it cost about £160 to get a guy out to G3 it all. He went through every last nut and bolt. You need this looking at so deffo hold some money back. Guys a tosser.

My 2 cents says if you manufactured with a flaw, eg a cavity between the Ali and the wood where interstitial condensation is promoted, then that a poor design. My point about cold bridging was that ‘cold’ shouldn’t be able to get ‘around’ ( beyond ) the thermal break. ? Agree with @nod as when the fruits bead up on the external angles and they end up fatter than the opening, then good luck when you go to open the window ( after the fitters have squeeze them in ) as they’ll hit the reveals Good practice would be to discuss this with the plasterers well in advance and flare the reveals sufficiently to take the depth of the corner bead.

Oh, and best not to forget that the discharge only happens when there is a fault, so the longer that goes unnoticed.......... ”This message ( and your luxury HMO ) will self-destruct in 5 seconds”

Not too much I’m sorry...... If you had a catastrophic failure and the cylinder hasn’t been installed to the MI’s then your insurance could refuse to payout. I’ve heard that in a block of flats with around £30k worth of ( uninsured ) damage done. Next issue is if there is no integral air break on D1 then the downstream discharge pipe can freeze and block solid, then you have a bomb in your rental property. This really is not just a bad job but it’s very, very dangerous, especially with it going into winter. There is no ‘drip’ from a correctly fitted tundish. Water can pass through at nigh on full wallop if it’s been fitted with the correct size and length of pipe above and below ( D1 & D2 ) so a bit of scaremongering there. FYI, there are two intentional points of visibility for identifying problematic discharge from the tundish; 1) The chuffing tundish being alongside the UVC for periodic owner / self inspection / alert 2) G3 stipulates that the end of D2 terminates where it is visible, and that it terminates 100mm above outside finished floor level. The intention is the same with the old overflows from attic tanks where the overflow gives you a shower when it’s operating, eg so you do something about it sharpish. Reason being is that is potable drinking water that is being discharged so the water bylaws state that that cannot be happening ‘behind the scenes’, hence the open tundish inside the dwelling at the UVC and the external overflow discharging where it’s continued operation wouldn’t go unnoticed. The regs are there to be followed, so no slack for your guy from me, sorry. ? If everybody started putting ‘their spin’ on things then regs would be pointless. FYI #2, the Hotun tundishes have clear click on covers so can prevent your mans dreaded splashing if he’s that bothered. The only thing that make the tundish splash is not enough pipe above it and the same below / invert to close so it backfills. Nah, the more I type the less slack they get. It’s needs sorting. If your happy to be relaxed about it then that’s up to you. If you rang the governing body up and told them how it’s fitted they’d tell you to turn it off immediately. Your call pal ?

100%. Tell piss face builder to get ‘qualified ring-piece’ back to do the job properly. The installation manual will be handy to have to hand to demonstrate that the tundish MUST reside with the UVC, and his ‘interpretation’ of how it can be done, to make his life easier, is actually a breach of G3. The rules are there to be read and followed, not ducked and dived around. Jeez. Also, and this is VERY important, ask him if EVERY SINGLE mixer outlet ( showers / bath fillers / mono-block taps etc ) EVERY SINGLE ONE WITHOUT DOUBT have the cold water coming from the balanced output of the control group ( the multi function valve alongside the UVC ). If he shrugs his shoulders or cannot answer the question then the UVC is on borrowed time. Ask and update please.

Its only meant for commissioning Its for filling and draining the system when powered down. Where a motorised valve and cylinder stat are inclusive of the system design, you should never run a system knowingly bypassing the safety features ( the cylinder stat ). Also, for an ASHP installation, each flow ( DHW or Heating ) command different flow temps so another reason not to 'cheat' it.

Scores of houses are like this, no regs, no BC and no approvals. Simply value it less the room in roof, other than as posh storage, and then retrospectively convert it properly with BC application and then get the house revalued and insured accordingly ( if you need the attic to be a bedroom that is ). It can be a nice kids playroom or cinema room etc, just not a habitable space, but PLEASE do get fire / smoke detectors right the way through all 3 floors regardless. There are some great bluetooth connectivity smoke detector systems out there now which mean no interconnecting cables required, just get 230v to them from the nearest light fitting and job done.

Yup. Looks like a giant block of mahogany to me. End cost per m2?

If ph windows benefit from a cork / other thermal break in their construction to reduce the huge cold bridging, then leaving the face gapped at the sides would throw that straight into the bin. Ventilating to the cavity is great if you’ve got a cavity, but the thought of driving wind and rain not being deflected / otherwise arrested would not be a good thing imo, so for me it would have to be sealed. If those gaps were fully backfilled with foam after installation I fail to see how condensation could occur ? Afaic leaving the gap is what would cause / promote the problem, not cure it #confusedofwales