Nickfromwales

Ok, so when do we move from ‘gentle nudge’ to screaming “that will look crap”? +1. But would need to have a cavity at the back so you can leave pipes in situ and cut out for that boxing -in. Beware ones which are flush to the back wall.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder....

With one hand on the angle grinder, ( fitted with a continuous rim diamond edge blade rated for porcelain ), and the other hand on your balls. Disclaimer : Holding balls is optional, but best to have both hands on the grinder. Slow and steady will do it, expect the porcelain not to like being cut.

Then deffo do not go for the semi-pedestal . IMO it'll look daft having pipes disappear into it after them being exposed below. I have cut a LOT of porcelain stuff in my time, to do things like this, but it's very unnerving and some stuff didn't live to tell the tale ?

Usually OSB3 these days for that?

I believe its because the monoblocks have a far less convoluted initial start up and run time so the split units tend to fire up 'for a good reason'. From the various suppliers and installers I've spoken to, the split units have to be justified for that choice of 'weapon' to be warranted. That's what I've picked up on from having many of these types of conversations over the years anyway. As always, anyone considering such an install should do their own due diligence and make sure the chosen equipment is fit for their particular instance rather than take generalised information from anywhere else. My experiences of this type of unit go back 2 years, and I see HP's have come on quite a bit in that period.

Buffers can be strategically positioned also, so you could get the much loved 'airing cupboard' to maximise on the 'waste' heat.

That's my understanding, yes. Not really as the buffer would only be inline with space heating and not the DHW, so adventitious heat given off by that vs nuisance heat. Very difficult to offer more to that post as we do not have client / dwelling specific parameters to hand.

Telford offer that with a lifetime warranty, and its 100% stainless. But yes, it was installed to be removed and replaced with spanners and a cordless drill in half a day or less.

Does it 'max out' when reheating the cylinder Dave? Whats the noise level in DHW mode is my point, with 5kw vs 300L?

Split units are a totally different beast to a monoblock, so everyone should keep that in mind and take that with a pinch .... Does show that the MCS scheme is good for that type of instance, but hard to understand how that ever became a problem because being an accredited MCS installer ordains you to do due diligence, way before executing the installation. Perhaps that particular install is simply missing a buffer tank.

I'm tired. Bugger off.

He means an open vented one like the Telford Tristor No need for discharge pipe then as it has a manual fill header tank, eg not pressurised, but a has a mains pressurised instantaneous DHW coil sat in the heated water to give mains pressure balanced DHW and plenty of it. Only ball-ache is it has higher standing losses which would be exaggerated by the lower external temp outdoors in winter.

It would need to be a big attic to get that upright and to bear the weight in that one spot? Is it too late to get a horizontal tank and put it up the attic? That helped spread the load out and keep a central walk through clear.

If it’s been surveyed first, a good plumber should do that in a day. So £160 plus materials I suppose should be ample. Will the tank have to have a timber plinth constructed to sit on at its new location? If so, factor in costs for that too.

As above. Inverter to take DC to AC, diverter to send it to specific loads at specific times etc. Yes. The reason a Sunamp has a mains 230v feed from the CU for the controller, and then a separate feed to the immersion ( via a contactor on the controller PCB which operates as a gate ). Lots of electricians were getting this wrong early on and some ended up blowing the SA controllers up.

And a system ( if not second hand from the outset ) that lasts 25 years minimum will therefore give 'free' electricity out for the next 15 years minimum. Most are warrantied for 25 years, Solarwatt for 30 with a 30 guarantee as well as warranty. The cheap stuff is likely to fail, so avoid the cheap seats where budget allows IMO. It's down to whether or not you can utilise it and not waste sending it to export eg maximum self consumption.

Unless your array is north facing, I cannot see how PV would be a bad thing?! Any PV company will have to give you a survey and forecast of performance / cost / break-even point ( based on deemed % of self consumption ) / and RoI numbers for you to consider. Have you had a proposal yet? If not, it would be a good paper exercise IMO, and should be free.

The Eddi is very versatile and a great bit of kit. It'll do most of what anyone would want / need. You would need to look at the minimum thresholds for diverting power, but, IIRC, the Eddi will do this proportionately. The equation can only be answered by knowing how much PV you have, it's expected yield, and what consumption ( and when ) you intend to offset or manage with a diverter. There is no quick answer I'm afraid. Excess can very easily be be diverted to hot water, for eg, but the ASHP needs access to power 24/7 normally so would just rely on taking that direct from the CU. As it's a multiplier, it's running costs are negligible and therefore rarely the focus of diversion per se.

If it's injected straight into the CU and not delivered through a diverter the PV will power anything and everything, when generation is sufficient of course.

That's better than 3kW so good news. Didn't think they'd have allowed a 6kW as that's a lot of heat in one place.

£3k for a 12? Where did you get that number? You’re not looking on the Fisher website are you?

Depends on how its read I suppose. Was only said in jest. I'll edit it to save the feint-hearted.

I can't answer that as it may constitute commercial content, which we never discuss on public forum. There.

That is an option, but check that won't stuff your warranty up first