Nickfromwales

Should add to the thermal ma........

Yes, but that’s only permissible up to a certain weight / load.

Different if it’s just a stud wall above, but clearly a lot more going on here.

Because the pozi joists don’t ( can’t ) take the load They stop and start at the beam on purpose as they have no compressive / load bearing qualities at the tail ends. The above loads need to be transferred directly to the load bearing stud wall, and that can happen if the header is a broken mix of overlapped joust rails and noggin in-fills.

To lay and grout that, including logistics, would be in triple digits for me. Cracking job on the grouting btw, and yup, a labour of love that is.

Once racked with OSB, a 98mm stud wall, with double header and footer, becomes incredibly strong. I’ve only ever seen 150mm used on walls which are excessively high eg divider between two rooms that share the same vaulted ceiling each side. The glulam is used here for plug n play construction IMO as two bits of C24 would likely need to be packed and trained into position due to natural timbers instability. Glulam beams are inherently flat, straight and uniform, when pre-cut and sent as part of a TF kit. They’re usually oversized in length and trimmed during installation in this type of instance.

Yup, cheers. A glulam is often used here as it’s more stable / quicker to install to get the full width cover at the top of the stud frame. Other options are 2x 44mm wide C24 solid timber joists which is a far less uniform end result ( and therefore non sympathetic to affixing pre-cut pozi joists to ) so that’s prob why it’s been chosen vs the requirement to take the kind of weight that it’s capable of taking. As @PeterW says, check twice drill once, as this is a new structure and you’ll need to preserve the frame supports warranties. The beam is not only supported by the double header of the stud frame, but also by the fact that the stud wall is racked with OSB for a huge uplift in structural integrity. Plating this between the pozi joists will do little to nothing, and I’m sure the SE will give you a green light to strategically penetrate that beam. I doubt they’d have any issue with you taking a 150mm section out completely, at one point midway, so you can then take cables through the gap there also. Smaller homes for MVHR and small bore plumbing can be made according to the SE’s advisories.

If you removed a section 120mm wide, you’d have no issue whatsoever. It’s a load well distributed / managed over the whole width of the wall vs any specific point loading. If you can drill a circular hole at 120mm diameter then that would leave meat above and below and he more than acceptable. If it was a glulam this would be totally different.

As long as there’s cold pressure presented at the cold inlet, the thermostatic cartridge will perform all the way down to the low / mid 30’s. You’ll be fine. Plus, the showers / baths won’t be on the HRC so they can have full bore hot from the cylinder ( or other hot water device..... ). Anti-scald ( zero water output from valve in that situation ) only kicks in if the cold is isolated / fails for whatever reason. Wallpapering the daughters bedroom atm, and the jury is out on witty lol. Minimal ale input atm as the pattern is a bastard to match up. 3 different batches of paper didn’t help, but that’s what you get when you buy paper 3 days before Xmas. ?

You need at least 300mm of vertical pipe above the tundish to have the water come out ‘straight’ eg without ‘turbulence’, which is usually the main cause of water splashing out / over the tundish. Don’t forget to ream the pipe internally to remove the cup end, formed by rotary pipe cutters. Even though you can get away with the factory supplied 15mm in > 22mm out jobby I alswsus upgrade to a 22mm in > 22 or 28mm out to alleviate any such issues

I’d fit the pump between the buffer and the manifolds first and try that, as it’s the easiest and cheapest path. That pump needs to be activated by either manifold wiring centre, so will need to be brought on by a pair of relays, each one connected to the pump on the output, and each individually triggered by each manifold. Ideally that needs to be off a 2-port zone valve at each manifold, so one that is off cannot allow return water to be pulled backwards ( sucked ) by the other ‘flowing’ manifold. I’d just try the pump install first and see what results that yields.

Those manifolds promote excess bypassing too, with difficult loops not being serviced as they would with a different manifold eg without the return having direct lino-of-sight with the flow

Poor kid lol. Better than breaking them I suppose.

4 kids bouncing off the walls, and heads shot trying to find new things for the chuffing Elf on the shelf to do each day. ?

110o dispersion means that doesn't matter. They're only really for generic 'flood' lighting and feature / accent / low level / wall lights etc should always compliment them for a good lighting scheme.

Yes, they have a non replaceable lamp which is front loaded, and anything with a replaceable lamp usually sit deeper in the fitting so the dispersion decreases with that. Cheers

Flat panel led’s are a standard size across the ranges ( 3-6-9-12W etc ) so yes, they will fail eventually, everything does, but, the lamp life is ridiculously long, the heat waste is tiny, and swapping them out takes minutes. And they’re cheap as chips. Flat panels for me every time for a LOT of the different lighting needs in my lighting design packages / proposals. 110o dispersion also makes for a very even spread of light vs spots which are on average 25-38o dispersion on a good day. I still use spots, mostly Aurora ( reduced depth plus acoustically dampened ), for instances where I do want pockets of light vs flood of light. Lighting design needs a LOT of thought and someone with experience who can say what did / didn’t work well in xyz instances. Another benefit of this forum where many opinions can be filtered and cherry-picked to suit.

7 hours is a long blink. Chill out and leave it alone for the 48 hrs. Have you checked the isolation valves are all fully open on the pump isolation valves / other valves? May he strangled flow somewhere simple. Check pump ISO’s first.

Not the case. Your body temp is fooling you so ignore it. If the UFH manifold loops feel warm or even ‘slightly hot’ it’s too hot. You need to set the ASHP as said to ~35oC and the UFH manifold blending valve to 22-24oC and bugger off out fir 48 hrs. Until then, nowt will change significantly. You’re ridding the house of a HUGE amount of ‘cold’ stored energy so patience is required and results will follow

Water not circulating through some loops and whizzing around others aka “bypassing.”. Just utter shite. Nu-Heats loop design was done by a 3 year old with lots of loops over 110m long, with 2 manifolds at one end of a corridor instead of one manifold each end etc. They went radio silent when it came to problem solving and passed the buck to every person in the company until I just ripped up their design and designed it all again from scratch myself ( with a pump for each manifold btw!! ).

Just spent a lot of time and a clients money undoing a similar spec Nu-Heat UFH job. Multiple failures on loops with short loops bypassing and more.....and no way of setting different flow temps for ground floor ( tiled over screed ) from upstairs ( engineered / solid woods over screed ). Train wreck. Nu-Heat insisted it would work, client paid the price when it didn’t.

Never comes out consistently and is a pita. Save money elsewhere

Yup.

One manifold per outlet, eg do NOT stream manifold to manifold if they have isolations as you’ll start to eat into flow rates. A single centralised hot manifold with the HRC to that only is quite economical, and a hot manifold means even long hot runs have to be very long before needing a dedicated HRC.

If these haven’t been blown through, aka ‘purged ‘ with cold mains, then this will be a non-starter. You can run the manifold pump for a month of Sunday’s and it’ll do zilch as even the max flow rates are just too low. There will be zero need to strip a brand new manifold down. Don’t do that.