Nickfromwales

Just fit 40a or even 60a relays, simple. >Twice the CCC of the stock offering and much, much higher longevity. That's what I have had to do to 'load shift' SA's in the past on dual-fuel installs, fitting relays outside in project boxes and got my spark to fit the highest rating we could get hold of in a single module ( as it was a couple of tenners uplift for a lot of sleep ). On a previous SA install with their bespoke 'load shifting' controller, there was a time-clock inside the OEM equipment which made a lot of sense ( so the system only regenerated during the 3 x E10/24hr windows ). Options for that on the HW+I or eDuals would be handy as the electricity grid is becoming quite attractive for recharging, or at least topping up, even when gas is the primary fuel.

Wonder why there isn't something out there to emulsify it.

I've used 225x25mm a few times in passive builds where there has only been the 35mm service batten depth to play with. 300x25mm is also available if the runs are excessively long, but I know the dynamics for airflow aren't favourable with rectangular vs round so you'd need to do some checks for airflow vs distance inc deductions for bends etc. These guys do the fittings so assume the duct too? I am super-sceptical about retro-fitting MVHR into refurbishments though, at least anything worse than EnerFit standard refurbs, and would warn against it if you cannot get the 'air-tightness' addressed properly ( consistently ) according to the systems minimum requirements.

Dec caulk will be fine if it's not in direct rainfall. If you use silicone you wont be able to use any water-based products thereafter. Prob best to paint it all up and look at whats left. If necessary, then choose a product to fill with, probably frame sealant would be best at that stage and is over-paintable when you tart it up next..

The treads are actually wood-effect walk on glazing.....who'd have thought !!!!

"Dead man walking" ?

Ok. If it's directly on top of an insulated solid concrete slab, like 150mm of it, it will still work. I know, because I have done it ( back in the day when I was wet behind the ears, and the customer was 'always right' and it wasn't worth arguing...). That system is still in and working to this day, and is the only heat source for the ground floor. Is it efficient? No. Is it economical to run? I very much doubt it. Does it take a long time to heat up? Yes, but it also takes a long time to cool down so not the end of the world when you get used to its traits. The overlay systems work. they're just expensive for what they are. Your solution will certainly achieve what you are looking, for just on this forum we are all advocates of "fabric first" approach and advise as best we can to reduce heating needs vs increase the number of rads etc. So, that's where the resistance is coming from. So, if you have 60mm - 30mm PIR - 30mm of UFH pipes buried in liquid screed, what is going on top? I would seriously recommend a bonded engineered wooden floor or tiles as that will add to the thermal inertia and help with the way heat is injected into the floor and emitted into the room. My observations are that you are OK to accept some compromise here on running costs, as you don't envisage using it all year round to heat the room, and nor will it be the primary heat source ( at least until you see how the UFH performs without the rads ), so if you are asking id this approach will do WHAT YOU ASK FOR then the answer is 100% yes. You will feel the difference for sure, and the fact that you'll have a mix of rads and UFH on the same ground floor will help with any short cycling issues from the boiler. Don't ever dream of running this UFH on it's own as your boiler will hate you for it. FWIW I would use 12mm pipe here and run it at 100mm centres. That will give more volume for screed and greater total pipe surface area to conduct heat. You'll likely need 2 or 3 loops to make up the one 'zone' to ensure equal temperatures throughout the floor, so as to effectively offset how quickly the heat will dissipate from the smaller pipe. Bottom line is, it will work.

I used garage floor paint. Hard wearing and just nice to look at ( grey not terracotta )and cheap as chips. Also, it should act like a bit of a vapour barrier too. Moot most likely, but made sense to me and my small grey nodule. Takes a LONG time to dry so put on in lots of thin layers.

Stair porn at it's finest. We all salute you sir.

Stunning.....

The fan heaters I bought have a switch on the underside. If they tip over they cut out. Safety first, so if you’re working on cars you need to keep the fan heaters well away from the stuff that makes them go ! Also, if draught-proofing, you must watch for the accumulation of fumes.

Are you saying that you’ve looked at the UVC history over the last 20 years? I can tell you now, that isn’t a history that reads exceptionally well so I’d look at this afresh to be fair. Last terminally ill UVC I went to was in a £1m+ property and the results were devastating. This was completely down to lack of G3 maintenance/ inspection, and totally avoidable, but if Joe Public isn’t aware of how vital these regular checks are then they don’t know what potential there is for disaster. Or look at something which doesn’t have such requirements. UVC’s have been around for a long time, and if you go looking for the many tales where they’ve failed you may think twice! Would you choose a car which could break down and you need to call the AA, or would you buy one that could blow up and make a crater in the road ( with both needing replacing )

Not much uplift if you don’t buy the doomed ones first! SSR’s aren’t that expensive, and if purchasing on a large scale the bean counters can get that down a bit I suspect. Otherwise it’s pretty reliable.

....and you're soon to have one. LOL. Enjoy.

If you make the improvements as stated above, the fan heaters will become quite effective as there will be far less ventilation heat loss. I made my man shed super draught-proof and 5 mins with the 1500w fan heater and all is well. IR are fine if you are staying in one place, as they 'heat what they hit', so not what I would choose for my own needs. The heat is instant from IR though, so merits are plentiful either way TBH. I just prefer the whole space heated and clutter / shelving walls etc cannot be taken up by panels. The fan heater just sits in one corner on the floor and is plugged in on demand. I'm just not a fan of having so much local heat concentrated in one place only.

Matters not one jot. And your solution for someone needing..... .......is? May need a "shatoff" also next to the urinal for when someone 'overloads' it, typically after walking to it 10cm dilated only to find out you just fitted a pissoir

Did you bring a coat? if so, I can go get it for you?

Just like the wretched Portaloo, your idea will be flushed. Also, if you don't like banging sounds, best ask the carpenters to buy rubber mallets for knocking nails in.......

Any links?

OK. Just there's not much room in the SA controller for anything bulky.

Also means stocking a lot more spares for the duration too. They did use one same PCB but now that’s gone that’s another negative for sales.

No different to the contacts in the contactor or relay welding themselves in the ‘closed’ position. And so far the failings I have witnessed are the electronics failing and sending a constant ‘on’ signal to the contactor / relay, so 6 and two 3’s. SA fail safe, as with all other heaters out there, is mandatory, so that’s why they have an OH stat on / at the immersion location for such terminal failures. They also have a doomsday PRV on the PCM cell to stop it bursting. Seen a couple of units now where I was surprised that PRV hadn’t opened!

If DIN rail SSR option is available, what about heatsink? Issue or not?

That is now the OEM solution for any SA unit sent out in the last x number of months. They could just fit a bloody SSR and all this goes away in a 'flash'....... Yup, give or take. Seeing 15a is a worry, as it'll do the job but is still very close to the known duty. I know there's not massive shunt resistance with an immersion, but it should still have a lot more headroom IMO, even if just to promote longevity!

I always asked my screeder to go over slightly sunken strips and go dig them out later. Leaves him plenty of open m2 to get a 10' or 12' straight edge in when screeding. TBH, he does that and still manages to flick the end of the trowel in at either end of the strip so we can locate the stop / start points easily when tiling. Which makes it easy to locate them afterwards.