Nickfromwales

Well, shut my mouth Why on earth have they done that ?!? ?‍♂️ Email Trevor@cyliners2go and ask if they can relocate the immersion perhaps? Bespoke cylinders aren’t an issue with him usually.

Not for that one as the immersions are both left snd right hand loaded. They slide out horizontally which is in-keeping with the whole idea of a cylinder being installed in a reduced height compartment! I’ve not seen one with a top loaded immersion as that’s probably the worst possible place for it, what with heat rising etc. Do you have a link to the one you refer to?

If you use 16mm pipes for conduits for the probes, fit proper cap ends so they don’t back fill with the concrete slurry

Also, iirc, Wunda don’t do the uber low temp pump and blending set atm. Therefore, if you buy now, I doubt if that kit will cope with the intended application. Totally agree; pipes now, cap them off with self-amalgamating tape, not cap ends, and leave for now. No. Just a few 16mm elbows to daisy chain the loops one to the next, put cold mains on the first pipe, and a pressure gauge on the last one.

Ah, that makes much more sense, cheers for that. You should still have 2-port zone valves at each manifold though, as it’s those which should be bringing on the buffer > manifold pump according to demand ( as per my diagram / wiring / valve arrangement ). It really boils down to how often the heating is on with both manifolds routinely having at least one open loop each, simultaneously, for the duration of each heating on’ period. That will decide if you should relax or start cutting.

With the PV and batteries, plus the suggestion of an ASHP, you’ll need to get rid of the TS ( thermal store ) and fit a HP UVC. I’d fit a 300L UVC. Remember the ASHP will heat the tank slowly, so factor that in. Get dual 3kW immersions fitted and then you can boost for duress. The thermal store cannot stay.

Remove the word probably. We like to keep the forum factual

You can do it, Deeds.

This was who my last customer bought from. They’re all much of a muchness. Chinese things with crap instructions etc but was ok when built. I remember having to clear CT1 a few more junctions than they indicated to be watertight.

No it does not. Sheathing with OSB or plywood is recognised for racking strength. Plasterboard is friable and is not constructional, and is only mentioned as a beneficial reinforcement in most reference documents. A structure should stand on its own prior to internal 'decorative' finishes / laminations. The steam cabinets are free standing in every unit I've ever fitted, so you can go out of the wall to an external drain which is less complication.

You're at 4m wide, no need for such OTT measures. I'm currently specifying M&E for a 400m2 passive house which has between 25mm and 35mm service cavities for a family of 6. 70mm for what exactly?

MVHR units must have a trap immediately fitted on them, regardless of what’s downstream. After that trap its Carlto el Blancho.

Drive casually to work with them in the boot, and then, when nobody is looking, just hit the ejector button to jettison into the local canal.

What standard are you building to? Current regs with trickle vents? Box tick amount of insulation? Builder in on price so wants to get in and out? Ventilation heat loss from excessive infiltration is the enemy, more so than insulation in actuality. You can use UFH under carpet upstairs with good results as long as you fit a manifold dedicated to each discipline, eg one downstairs and one upstairs so each can have individual flow temps. Upstairs will need a higher flow temp to combat the TOG ratings. Having all GF UFH will convey a good bit of heat to upstairs, but is dependant on the layout, eg open plan hall / stairs / landing promotes this. Build to a good standard and you’ll find few of the upstairs rooms need big numbers for additional heating anyways, build poorly and the UFH may never get them up to temp ( unless left on 24/7 on ‘setback’ temp and then jumping via programming to ‘comfort’ for anticipated occupancy ). Cn be done with aluminium spreader plates between joists, just you’ll need the joists at 400mm centres to get the plates in between. Lining up the joists either side of steels / glulams helps a lot if they create intersections in the same room. Radiators = simple. UFH = pita, but well worth the effort in the end.

To save money for beer.

5 bathrooms, so each room to have either a bath / shower or combo? One just a cloakroom WC? Specific details are needed for advice on capacity / size / type of cylinder Number of showers per day, time they are taken, same with baths. Kitchen and utility. The size of the heat pump needs a LOT more info, eg heat loss calcs / DEPC and location / climate etc. INPUT!!

Try slowing down for the bends eh?

So many architects are fossils......... Much better results can be obtained from an architectural technician. They ( typically ) have more curiosity and ingenuity, and less bravado and ego. A lot of them need to yank their arses into 2021, but why would they bother when a lot of clients are stuck in the 00's or earlier. Try selling someone more insulation and watch when they realise that eats into the budget for the coffee machine they'll use twice.

Sober will do. Baby steps......

Me neither. Having a malfunctioning brain is a pita. Hey-ho. All you need is 4 small squares of 9mm or 12mm plywood, say 30mm square, turn a 4" screw into the corner of them ( like a bit of cheese on a cocktail stick ) and then use the 4" screw to allow you to insert the square and rotate it behind the fixing hole. Send the shower fixing screw back all the way through the shower and the plywood spacer and tighten up to the pinch pint, then relax it back off a bit. Repeat, and then let me know so I can get some shut-eye. Patience, so you don't fcuk the tiles up, would be best, so do it when you're sober and sane.

Makes sense. Go outside and play now. ?. Watch for cars, ok.

Answer one thing at a time. Loosen all the screws and see if the valve will move without really pulling stupidly on it.

Sorry. Too busy / lazy to scroll up. I’m trying to stop @pocster from going over the edge elsewhere. Appreciated.

But apart from all that, life’s good ?. What doesn’t kill you....etc. Chill, breathe, it’s just another day in paradise. Nowt will change it and stress is a killer. Yes, go for that if you know you have at least 10mm play in the plumbing? Don’t stress the pipework, it’ll just leak.

This is why we keep a good few spares, don’t we......?