Nickfromwales

Ardex A38 dry screed can be ceramic tiled in 4 hours. Cementitious tile adhesive is completely different to the type of adhesive that the Amtico layers will use. There is an even quicker drying dry screws available, but I can’t remember the bloody name of it. I’ll ask my mate, he’s my got to screeder ( who will travel btw ). He laid @Russell griffiths screed. PM him if you want a reference. Top guys. You need to petition the fitters to find out what they’ll use before getting any more advice based on unknowns Ask questions about warranties if laid on liquid screeds vs dry screeds etc

@Robert Clark I assume you’re referring to Amtico aka LVT? ( Luxury Vinyl Floor ).

Understood. That means they are for “auxiliary” heating then eg supplemental Firstly you shouldn’t tile directly to a wooden substrate. I typically use a binder layer of 6mm plywood, glued and screwed at 100-120mm centres, and then flexible tile adhesive over that. If you score the caber deck then you may get away with using something like Bal Superflex, which proclaims its ability to negate a decoupling membrane. That stuff is good, but expensive. If it were me, I’d want a minimum of 6mm insulation board under the UTH, but in a near Passiv / PH it’s quite academic tbh as these dwellings tend to sit at an extremely acceptable average ambient, and the tile heating will be strictly a comfort thing vs providing any ‘heating’. With the insulation boards you’ll be able to time this to come on as little as 30 mins prior to you using the room, but if it has to heat the substrate also, then you may need an additional 30 mins or more to achieve the same result.

That's going to cost a few £££ to run. What about radiators? +1 to fitting a pocket for the probe, that's standard practice.

Forgot to say you need to depress the pin to allow flow when the system pressure is up. D’oh. You’ll hear the water rush through and that needs to flow for about 3-5 mins. Air should be visible coming out of the hose with water, which will then eventually run quiet.

Not quite. Shut the system down and turn the power off. Then, take the actuator head off the loop in question. Then use the filling loop to pressurise the system to 2.5bar. Open the drain off so water is free to leave via the return of the air-locked loop, and, before the pressure bottoms out at zero, you open the filling loop so you keep blasting cold mains water through the loop and out to drain. That should have enough velocity to blow the air out and have the loop completely occupied by water only. Shut the drain off and close the filling loop simultaneously so the system pressure stays above 0.5-1 bar, Power back up and check for flow ( heat ) and let us know the results.

Does the return pipe get warm as well as the flow? If not, it’s air-locked.

ACH isn’t it? Air Changes per Hour.

Yup. Never screw them down when the adhesive is wet. You can get the floors like glass with that technique. If going for UTH then consider 10mm for better local heat insulation. Faster heat up times can be achieved with a few minor tweaks / attention to detail.

So, did you eat that Yum Yum then fatso?

ACH.

Hmmmmm ? Pies…..or Daddy? Pies…..or Daddy? Pies it is. @Russell griffiths can wash his hands in cold water. 15mm hot and 10mm HRC are both inside the same piece of ( 22mm dia x 25mm wall ) Climaflex from start to finish.

Shall we we if we can set a new record of how many perfectly good threads can be ruined pointlessly by pettiness……. Serious tampon change required folks. Really lowering the tone today. ?

??

Ok for a shed though.

Apparently Ring ( as an alarm ) is the equivalent of you nailing a Kinder Egg to the wall.

Just have a spur off any ring circuit. You can have the Texecom with all wireless equipment. Not sure about the bell box and remote keypads though. Just about to buy 2 full systems for clients so will know much more when their tech support do me a diagram of the typical topology / cable dependant components etc.

Hi David. The 6mm SWA would be way too inadequate, so you’ll likely need go for a 16.0mm2 minimum ( due to the distance ). You’ll need to come off a 50a breaker at your parents house ( probably will require a temp hook up to their tails depending on what loads they run at home ), and then come into a CU at the caravan with an 80a isolator ( RCD ) and then whatever size & qty of MCBs to suit. You’ll only need a 2-core SWA as you will have to have an earth rod at the caravan. That 100m distance is too far to export the earth from your parents house. Issues with the termination of the SWA cable and isolation of the subsequent differing earth potentials needs the sparkies input immediately, so get them to spec the job, to give you a shopping list, and then you go get what they need not what you think they need Otherwise you’ll still have wasted time. This requires a lot of input and a survey of your site / parents house. Get the sparky involved now.

Italian stuff is about as good a standard as you’ll get tbh. “Rectified” tiles are as flat, regular, and as flawless as you can get hold of, but not one I’ve come across yet are perfect. At 1200mm you can bend a porcelain tile, same at 600, believe it or not, so for that size of tile using a lot of the levelling spacer / clips will give you a billiard table for sure. All down to the tiler, but with Justin having done the screed A1 the job should be a relatively easy ride. Just upset the tiler and tell him your going for a herringbone pattern. ? A big question will be to ask if the tiles are directional, eg have arrows on the back which all need to face the same way. A lot of rectified tiles are 2 tiles cut from 1 ‘master’ tile, just look on the back of a typical 600x300 and you’ll see a ribbon around the edge that goes 3 sides around but the 4th ( usually the length ) can clearly be seen to have been a cut and polished edge eg it started off as a 600x602. If it’s a polished tile you’ll need a tiler with off the chart OCD, but if satin or Matt / other non-reflective finish then you’ll be fine with a regular decent tiler. Levelling clips will bend the tiles, but get / see some samples and look how good they are before signing up. Also, remember with a big order you either need to get the same batch number, or get odd batches put into different rooms / quantities to suit.

Still in trauma therapy chief…….?

Yes, and when it does it is no longer visible until it either settles or is conveyed elsewhere. Hence the condensate drain at the MVHR unit.

Steam is visible, ergo folk deem it more of a problem than it actually is......eg vs invisible water vapour / humidity. When it comes away from the heat source, it ( steam ) cools down and disappears. Larger rooms make this seem less exaggerated, smaller rooms far more exaggerated. The rate of extraction doesn't need to be much higher for a much larger room, eg a 4" fan in a small kitchen will be the same one BRegs ask for in a room 4 times the size. Drawing 100M3 per hour is the same for all size rooms. Correctly installed and sized MVHR will always promote adequate airflow through the room towards the extraction points, so the constant moving curtain of air will keep this to a minimum, particularly when on boost.

+1. Doing that in the other projects, also.

Just about to install mist systems for 2 clients' builds ( England ). I have had sprinklers fitted for previous clients ( in Wales ) but what a total and utter ball-ache in comparison with a mist system......pumps, tanks, digging up for bigger cold mains at 32mm and more. The mist systems are timed output so will not put more than 90L of water into a property, so a full activation and suppression cycle will be the equivalent of you filling the bath and flipping it on its side. No big deal in the grand scheme, but microscopic in consequence compared to the deluge and material losses suffered with a sprinkler activation. Main control box / pump set for mist is about twice the size of a shoebox, needs a 13a fused spur, and only a 15mm cold mains with no crazy ( often unachievable ) criteria for supply pressure and flow rates as will be the case with sprinklers. Mist system is a no-brainer, and not much more expensive than sprinklers, sometimes cheaper if you need to dig up and replace the main / install a pump etc etc.

I'm currently specifying a few Brink units for various projects, and they come with a pair of volt-free terminals which you can connect a switch to for initiating an early 5 min boost. I'm utilising that feature to cover the brief period before the MVHR unit realises the higher humidity for itself, eg when a shower is running, and also as a pre-evacuation initiative for when something steamy or smelly is being cooked. For the kitchens I intend using a timed latch-on contactor to hold the volt-free terminals closed for 30 mins to an hour ( can be adjusted easily to do anything from 10seconds to 24 hours ) so you never have to forget to / have to release the manually selected boost 'event'. Comes in handy for ablutions if deemed necessary, but an excellent idea IMO for cooking / kitchen. A simple switch ( retractive ) which is press and release does the trick.