Nickfromwales

Not accurately, and they’re all quite noisy when they get used like that. Just use flow restrictors at the individual outlet and keep the isolators for.........isolating

I have re-read, and yes, confusion reigns.......

The OP states the actuator rail gets hot first ergo they’re the wrong way around. The flow meters are like a flap / paddle over a tube end, so correct direction of flow promotes that paddle being pulled away to make way for the unhindered flow of water. Reverse flow actually pushes those paddles against the tube end and the higher the flow potential, the firmer they get shut. Things will improve when the manifolds are in the correct positions, and the loops have been purged. Get those done and order the eggnog

Which of those is flow? Eg which rail gets hot first? The rails are reversed, and flow gauges should be on the flow.

They’re not blocked, they’re air-locked. You need to use cold mains to force water through the loops, come off the cold feed to the boiler for that, and then a hosepipe to outdoors for draining. You connect the hoses to the valves at the end of the manifold rails. And make sure the manifold isolation valves are shut first. The UFH needs to be commissioned properly, and very few installers bother, instead assuming that the manifold pump will circulate the water and bleed all the air out. Wrong ! The water flows very slowly through the loops, and air remains in the pipe and eventually causes an airlock. That what your issue is here. Do you tinker, or do you need / can you get the installer back to commission it properly? Anything else is a waste of time and effort, and I’d recommend doing every loop to be sure this issue goes away and stays away.

It’s hard to find a reliable / robust inverter over 10kW as you’re then up at around 50a. For 18kW you’ll need to go 3-phase with a 3-phase inverter. 18kW is academic until you’re told you can fit an array that size......so cart is waaaaay in front of the horse atm. You can self consume everything that the inverter throws out. “Export limitation” is exactly what it says it is ?. Get 3-phase connection is the bottom line. AFTER you get permission to install / fully utilise it that is

What is the size of the inverter and what is its maximum throughput? Without that info there can be no answer yet

Mickey Mouse tools can also knacker genuine batteries so just buy genuine or cut things by hand I had my big recip off eBay, nearly new, for £60. Still going strong after 3+ ( maybe more ) years of rigorous abuse.

Feck off. Job done

Big question is then over warranty issues with a Tom, Dick & Harry installation. Panels are usually warranties for 25 years but you have to get the agent up there eg provide scaffolding etc ( which needs to be put up by a certified scaffolder with all tickets in place ) and then if the installer is at fault then you have to pay that agents fees plus the required repairs If you’re a self employed / qualified trade with building and electrical competency then crack on, if not think twice.

Prob a lot less than 4.5 in winter!!

You want to export little or nothing back to the grid . Consider not getting the battery system as you’ll own a very very big battery on wheels if you have or buy an EV. 6kWp array will deffo not be big enough to satisfy that lot, and you’d have to strategically utilise the PV to maximise the benefits. Has your MCS installer done a survey and generated numbers yet? If not, you need to do that eg before considering anything.

Might block the filter material up a bit too quickly?!?

No chance!!! Get him on video and send us the YT link.

I’d be more worried about painting the inside of that splenderific item with a few coats of oil based paint.

Dave. We’ve put flues through baffled sections of non opening windows before, blanking them with non-combustible material and intumescent mastic type seal to complete the picture. The reason they don’t show a non-opening window is because they don’t care about a non-opening window. Carry on with the 47’s and tell your BCO to suck it.

Export limitation can be employed to limit the max amount that can go to the grid. Some DNO’s will allow it, others may be particular or refuse.

It’s based on the array, and the panic is if the inverter fails and dumps the max to grid. Been there a load of times and its bloody annoying and crude.

If this is your first baptism-of-fire tiling job and you have turned out something that looks like that ( regardless of how much filing and dremel work you did ) then you should be standing 10 feet tall my strange avatar’d friend. ?? Have a beer on me, at your expense

The metal box has been utilised as a transition so the SWA can be made off to a bonded metal structure. A bit OTT but hey-ho. The earth lead does not service something else, it’s the critical earth bond strapper that bonds the SWA sheath and is functional.

Depends on too many things to give a useful answer tbh. Can you upload a plan with topology and measurements?

Deffo reuse for site power. Extension leads have dreadful power ratings and things like chop saws suffer badly. Always good to have a high power supply. Yip, just tape them off and cable tie them so they can’t go touching anything.

Good news, at least they've used the correct flue bends, and they've tech screwed them where required. One I saw at an eBuild members house was utterly horrific. The wrong bends used ( male and female push fit on vertical flue = jail, and when he said his son played up in the attic with his train set I offered to take a look as the combi was up there too. Client was not impressed when i put one finger under the flue terminal and lifted it easily off the top of the combi. And his installer was Vaillant accredited and a training instructor FFS. We rectified with a complete new flue, and the "training instructor" paid my bill ( very quietly and apologetically too ).

+1 to having; Existing socket > unswitched double pole fused isolation unit ( 13a DP fused spur ) with a 3 amp fuse replacing the factory fitted 13a one. Use 2.5mm2 Twin and Earth cable 6242Y for this. I'd have that where it was out of sight as they're a bit ugly tbh. Then I'd go from the low level spur ( next to socket ideally ) to a normal light switch ( then you can pick and choose to get one to match existing accessories ). Use 1.0mm2 T&E for that. Then from the switch to the lights in 3-core 1.0mm2 flexible cable or 1.0mm2 T&E, whichever easier. It is probably easier to run 2 bits of cable, eg one from the light switch to each of the lights so you only have to make one cable off in each light, rather that daisy chain through the first and then on to the second light . If we don't hear from you again, we'll assume it didn't go well and deny any knowledge of your existence

Errrr, yes..... Not very often do you open them when they’re hot