Nickfromwales

If you removed a section 120mm wide, you’d have no issue whatsoever. It’s a load well distributed / managed over the whole width of the wall vs any specific point loading. If you can drill a circular hole at 120mm diameter then that would leave meat above and below and he more than acceptable. If it was a glulam this would be totally different.

As long as there’s cold pressure presented at the cold inlet, the thermostatic cartridge will perform all the way down to the low / mid 30’s. You’ll be fine. Plus, the showers / baths won’t be on the HRC so they can have full bore hot from the cylinder ( or other hot water device..... ). Anti-scald ( zero water output from valve in that situation ) only kicks in if the cold is isolated / fails for whatever reason. Wallpapering the daughters bedroom atm, and the jury is out on witty lol. Minimal ale input atm as the pattern is a bastard to match up. 3 different batches of paper didn’t help, but that’s what you get when you buy paper 3 days before Xmas. ?

You need at least 300mm of vertical pipe above the tundish to have the water come out ‘straight’ eg without ‘turbulence’, which is usually the main cause of water splashing out / over the tundish. Don’t forget to ream the pipe internally to remove the cup end, formed by rotary pipe cutters. Even though you can get away with the factory supplied 15mm in > 22mm out jobby I alswsus upgrade to a 22mm in > 22 or 28mm out to alleviate any such issues

I’d fit the pump between the buffer and the manifolds first and try that, as it’s the easiest and cheapest path. That pump needs to be activated by either manifold wiring centre, so will need to be brought on by a pair of relays, each one connected to the pump on the output, and each individually triggered by each manifold. Ideally that needs to be off a 2-port zone valve at each manifold, so one that is off cannot allow return water to be pulled backwards ( sucked ) by the other ‘flowing’ manifold. I’d just try the pump install first and see what results that yields.

Those manifolds promote excess bypassing too, with difficult loops not being serviced as they would with a different manifold eg without the return having direct lino-of-sight with the flow

Poor kid lol. Better than breaking them I suppose.

4 kids bouncing off the walls, and heads shot trying to find new things for the chuffing Elf on the shelf to do each day. ?

110o dispersion means that doesn't matter. They're only really for generic 'flood' lighting and feature / accent / low level / wall lights etc should always compliment them for a good lighting scheme.

Yes, they have a non replaceable lamp which is front loaded, and anything with a replaceable lamp usually sit deeper in the fitting so the dispersion decreases with that. Cheers

Flat panel led’s are a standard size across the ranges ( 3-6-9-12W etc ) so yes, they will fail eventually, everything does, but, the lamp life is ridiculously long, the heat waste is tiny, and swapping them out takes minutes. And they’re cheap as chips. Flat panels for me every time for a LOT of the different lighting needs in my lighting design packages / proposals. 110o dispersion also makes for a very even spread of light vs spots which are on average 25-38o dispersion on a good day. I still use spots, mostly Aurora ( reduced depth plus acoustically dampened ), for instances where I do want pockets of light vs flood of light. Lighting design needs a LOT of thought and someone with experience who can say what did / didn’t work well in xyz instances. Another benefit of this forum where many opinions can be filtered and cherry-picked to suit.

7 hours is a long blink. Chill out and leave it alone for the 48 hrs. Have you checked the isolation valves are all fully open on the pump isolation valves / other valves? May he strangled flow somewhere simple. Check pump ISO’s first.

Not the case. Your body temp is fooling you so ignore it. If the UFH manifold loops feel warm or even ‘slightly hot’ it’s too hot. You need to set the ASHP as said to ~35oC and the UFH manifold blending valve to 22-24oC and bugger off out fir 48 hrs. Until then, nowt will change significantly. You’re ridding the house of a HUGE amount of ‘cold’ stored energy so patience is required and results will follow

Water not circulating through some loops and whizzing around others aka “bypassing.”. Just utter shite. Nu-Heats loop design was done by a 3 year old with lots of loops over 110m long, with 2 manifolds at one end of a corridor instead of one manifold each end etc. They went radio silent when it came to problem solving and passed the buck to every person in the company until I just ripped up their design and designed it all again from scratch myself ( with a pump for each manifold btw!! ).

Just spent a lot of time and a clients money undoing a similar spec Nu-Heat UFH job. Multiple failures on loops with short loops bypassing and more.....and no way of setting different flow temps for ground floor ( tiled over screed ) from upstairs ( engineered / solid woods over screed ). Train wreck. Nu-Heat insisted it would work, client paid the price when it didn’t.

Never comes out consistently and is a pita. Save money elsewhere

Yup.

One manifold per outlet, eg do NOT stream manifold to manifold if they have isolations as you’ll start to eat into flow rates. A single centralised hot manifold with the HRC to that only is quite economical, and a hot manifold means even long hot runs have to be very long before needing a dedicated HRC.

If these haven’t been blown through, aka ‘purged ‘ with cold mains, then this will be a non-starter. You can run the manifold pump for a month of Sunday’s and it’ll do zilch as even the max flow rates are just too low. There will be zero need to strip a brand new manifold down. Don’t do that.

Lol. ? Victory is mine !!

You are worrying about a problem that won’t exist. Chill out An in-line restrictor fitted in the shower head and handset in minutes will sort this instantly. Available in different Lpm ‘sizes’ to suit each outlet.

A single pump over multiple satellite manifolds is a sack-of-shit solution, you know it, and I know it Every single one I’ve come across set up like this is either struggling or hasn’t worked properly from day 1. ??

Live and learn etc, but there’s little that can’t be fixed relatively easily

Yes, hence.... All go hand in hand with a full manifold / pump / TMV arrangement.

Still struggle to understand why manifolds are still going in with no local pump and blending set. Bypass would be integral then, plus a set / specific flow temp is achievable via each TMV, essential when there is a mix of disciplines like rads + UFH.

If the zones were closed then there would be no call for heat signal from the manifold wiring centre, ergo the pump would be off