Nickfromwales

Wouldn’t it be better matched? eg similar will exchange charge at the same pace?

Use the correct corrosion proof screws for the cement board !

You can change the 11mm OSB and top the 18’s with a 6mm aqua board / cement panel. Then 5mm of tile adhesive to set the tray in nicely.

Sheet it with OSB3. 2x 18mm + 1x 11mm.

Thanks. Have they indicated when you would be moved to the eagerly sought ToU offerings? Any indication of price plan / duration etc downstream? TIA.

Time to pick up the phone to a GSR fitter me thinks?

Currently assisting 2 clients on choices for a supplier. Could I please ask if Octopus have offered ( promised ) you a ToU tariff ( GO / GO faster ) from the outset, or whether they have asked to put you on their fixed price tariff for the immediate?

Absolutely fine afaic. Garages get built over existing services every day. Ask your GW guys to dig them in a bit deeper, and to slide some off cuts of duct over them ready to be positioned to run continuous where your founds go, ( from one side to the other ), eg so the services can be pulled out from under the garage if they ever need to be changed retrospectively.

Boom Damp bridging gone, plus better sound proofing from external noises coming in via cavities. Not cheap, but by the time you've done PIR then PB, plus it's not as good a job then I know what I'd be using tbh. The areas aren't huge, so go with the better product. Nice and solid for closing these cavities. Router out for a couple of 18mm plywood baffles for screwing blinds / nets into.

Make some 4x2 supports, ( to hold the PB in place with cross battens used as bracing ), and bond the PB on with exp foam first, then screws and washers for mechanical fix after. Then bond PB on. Sides first, head second. Consider using 40mm Marmox instead? Rigid, and you can skim straight to a board which is nothing but insulation.

Oh, lol, I assumed that would have been a given. My bad!!

If you have multiples of cavity walls, assuming all original walls would have been, then blowing them full of beads would be a good place to start ?

Explain that it is a green / eco let, and put a timer on so the appliances become live at 11:00 and go off at 15:00. Will probably backfire lol, but you'll be please to know that my company buys failed rental businesses that have recently received bad advice

@Peterstark? Can't find his posts?

I'll get back to you on the results of that experiment Don'y hold your breath. My PV costs will be an "at cost minus favours to date" sort of thing, so my payback will be 5-6 years max, probably less. Rebuilding my gazebo, and possibly re-roofing the man-shed ( where the first of the array will go ) to make everything favour a very long, steady solar day. Optimisers will be my friend, my current bills, the enemy. "This time, it's personal".......

I dread to think what my base load is, as it’s a busy home with 2 adults + 4 kids ( 11-17 ) with all kinds of tech left plugged in / chargers on / vampire loads-a-plenty. @SteamyTea, please don’t work it out, or I’ll have to start removing sharp objects from my home. I’ve got about 8kWp of PV going in soon, plus a 9.6kWh battery system ( surplus stock from a non paying client which has only cost me a couple of £k ), so hopefully I can stave off the rising electricity bills soon! They’re the older 2000’s ( Pylontech ) batteries, does anyone know if mixing those with a couple of the newer 3000’s will cause any issue? Hoping to add 2 more cells as I think I will charge these without issue. Iirc if you parallel rechargeable batteries of differing capacities, they try to achieve “equilibrium “. @Onoff? Will be adding more PV later in the year to connect to my home-brew ‘thermal battery’. Will add some statistical data when the system is live.

Yup. 👍.

If you have the empty bottle on the ‘wrong’ side with the changeover set to the ‘then wrong’ side, you won’t get gas coming through. So long since I did an LPG install I cannot remember how these operate / what can go wrong. Have you got a hob / fire you can check for gas coming out of? You may well have gas available and not know it.

Exactly the kind of people who I do not invite into my home.

Can't you start with blown-in bonded beads in all of the cavities? They won't fall out around reveals / openings / heads etc during downstream works, and will be an effective start of your draught-proofing and insulation adventures.

Weight of bottles seem to suggest they are full? Which appliances have you checked to ascertain is gas is coming through, or not?

Have you flicked the lever back to the primary side ( left IIRC )?

Hi. Why not go around the front 3 sides and not disturb the bank?

When the systems I've put in for clients have been fine ( in Hep2O ) the question has to be asked where it is applicable and where it's not. If it's in a cold drafty home, fair enough. In an airtight high-spec dwelling the delta is often not so converse, plus the issues seem to be far less with plastic vs copper. I always insulate at the plant, and for the larger primary distribution eg to the manifolds, but after that I only ever insulate the hots and the hot returns tbh. Systems where there is a water softener and some larger bore primary stuff, the stored ambient in there often staves off the slug of ice-cold mains water that usually causes this problem, so it is horses for courses, not just a one answer for all afaic.