Nickfromwales

Heck no. Solar PV all the way AFAIC as ST is a one-trick pony. All summer you'll just have wasted excess energy that just mimics you boiling the kettle but not taking your finger off the button that makes it boil. ?

How so? If you then need to top up later via the boiler, you're then labouring the boiler, heating up all of the connective pipework and suffering all the relative losses from that process. Immersion will be close to 99% efficient vs gas boilers which sit in the early 90th percentile at best, ( considering the losses after the heated water leaves the boiler and more ) and that makes for a poor / uneconomical choice IMHO. During summer the boiler should moth-ball and the extended longevity of the boiler and heating components ( motorised valves not moving multiple times every day etc ) needs to added to the equation.

MCS says you will get around 25% max during the winter, so with a 5kWp you will really not be able to consider a battery as you'll be able to chafge it for free for only a few months of the year and it'll have around a 10-12 year useful life. Get your monies worth via 'free' hot water, which with a hot water cylinder and an immersion heater should be around 6+ months of the year.

Hi and welcome to BH. If you and @Onoff had a baby, we would have developed the ultimate weapon. He wants to move out of his damp house into a new dry garage. Change your MX5 to a Capri and we'd be stuck to distinguish between you. Stick around, you'll be a great feather in the cap

Just promise not to say that out loud in front of anyone pricing for the job eh!?!? So, decide if you want a habitable room with full building regs approvals, or a 'posh storage area' that requires next to zero input from building regs other than a sign off from a SE's set of drawings for a competent builder or carpenter / joiner-come-builder to work to. BRegs would need to be involved as the roof structure would be changing, they will want SE calcs and proposal for the alteration to rid you of the dreaded W's. Builder / joiner will need those to work from / to. If you go for a 'posh storage area', it will be cheaper and simpler, and you can have a non-compliant staircase ( spiral or 'hit and miss' steep stepladder etc ) and just accept it will never be recognised as a 'room', and categorically it should never be used as a bedroom or other routinely habitable space. Velux windows can go in on the elevation NOT facing the street, PP is required for any which do. As the above proposal does not include any specific need to strengthen the floor ( 1st floor ceiling joists ) you would need to be mindful of what you stored or put in any one place. TBH if you see the amount of shit most people put in their attics, you ask yourself why would you care! You can simply put a 5" x 2" joist either side of the existing 3" x 2" joist, known as sister-ing the timbers, to beef the floor up quickly and inexpensively. A layer of P5 22mm deck board would then go atop as finished floor. The roof rafters will all need this attention to compensate for the W reductions, and the fist smaller legs of the trusses will need to stay most likely to keep things as rigid as possible. Head height with a steel ridge beam installed, minus the disruption to the shape and height of the roof / ridge, will of course compromise head room up there, but if you wont budge on the ceiling height coming down by at least 50mm then your choices from there will all be compromises. However, if you want to throw a bucket of money at this then the roof can come off, the beam installed low enough to reinstate the roof / ridge as was, and then the carpentry and joinery would be a far simpler task to remedy as there would be open access. Summertime job for sure. You'd be looking at £20-£22k easy, roof / stairs / staircase / plaster / decoration / electrics and so on, maybe more depending on your postcode. ( do not post your postcode here please ).

Do you have a budget?

CT1 can be used. I would get some black pvc electrical tape ( not cheap crap from B&Q, go to an electrical wholesalers ) and wrap it from the face, across the cut outer edge, and to the back. Double up on the back overlapping the first run. Extremely carefully use a Stanley blade to remove the tape at the corner of the cut edge > face using lots of angle and a very steady hand. Use whatever colour tape you want, but you’d need to apply it to the cut edge and then view it from the front before progressing as mirrors are bar stewards for showing everything at the cut edge, TWICE, due to the reflective coating at the rear. Use a dry dish cloth to rub the tape firmly to the cut edge to save a bit of claret escaping CT1 will bond as well as seal, but you’ll need a couple of packs of cheapo baby wipes handy to wipe away excess and clean up. Masking tape is your friend, and you can use the PVC tape for that too using the same apply amd cut away technique as above, peeling away the face bit immediately after smoothing the CT1 with the wipes. Use loads and just throw them into a carrier bag ( paper one ? ) after each 1 or 2 passes as you’ll soon be covered in CT1. It is truly ghastly stuff in that respect.

All the mass built copy / cut / paste W trussed homes don’t easily lend themselves to the attics being converted, but it is possible by lowering the 1st floor ceilings, and setting the steel ridge beam up an outward of the existing ridge tile profile. It is a hack, and quite undesirable from an aesthetics POV and would make the house stick out of not at least semi-detached. It would be more sympathetic to extend if that was an option, or convert a garage etc if you have one? If you REALLY want this attic as additional meaningful space, the W trusses can be done away with by getting a steel ridge beam put in from inside, by having it made in 2 or 3 sections and bolting it up into place. This would require brick or block gables though, and an SE. Then with that installed you could beef up the rafters and lose the W’s. Giant ball ache though for a room that in honesty you’d struggle to ever have recognised for downstream added ( marketable ) value eg habitable, useful space vs just a big attic for storage or possibly a cinema / snug. The heart wants what the heart wants so it’s up to you how much you do, or don’t, throw at this. I’d go on holidays with the money instead

Cold feed and PRV ( D1 > D2 ) visible, so not needing insulating. @razbaz, is the pipe coming out of the top insulated? Big losses from that so best you do that if not.

The foil will react with the dry pug mix, but not to the point you will ever suffer any detriment. A 1200g membrane is pennies though, so if your'e bothered by this then fitting one is not even going to cost you a round of drinks

I bought 2 sets. The drill, charger and case are more than free.

Might be a 4mm2, but yes, not good if just a 2.5mm2 on a radial cct. @razbaz, can you show a pic of the fuse that services these two switches? Close up so we can see details, plus a shot of the fuse-board ( aka CU ( Consumer Unit )). Thanks.

Most recommend a slip membrane, assuming foil faced PIR or aluminium components which have a reaction with the cementitious screeds, but ultimately it’s not required on a 1st floor installation. What material will the pug mix be sitting on?

Yup. Set it up, fire it up, and start with the valve slightly open. Work slowly upwards turning up in 2.5 degrees increments every hour until you get the required / satisfactory flow temp

Sorry, I don’t get your point. I have said it has a tank, that’s the problem. It’s design is one thing, but it boasts a lot without recognition of its flaws and subsequent intolerable failings. The ‘tank’ is exactly that, and not a pressure vessel? Ergo, when it’s dry, you stop getting wet

Thankfully he is now safely held in a padded cell awaiting a full and proper psychiatric evaluation. Apparently, he rocks himself to sleep each night, muttering the same phrase over and over again….. ”Must finish bathroom………must finish bathroom……”

Don’t you mean that’s why you’re not a fan of mice? ?

No. An accumulator is a sealed and pressurised expansion vessel. It stores water under pressure. The composite tank is a bucket of water, open to atmosphere and stagnant until used by the pump sucking it out and forcing it through your pipework. The pump can empty the tank quicker than a poor cold mains could refill it, so when it’s empty your taps run bone dry.

Hi and welcome. A little cottage on a lake would make me content. ?. The glass is always half full here

Depends what temp the heat exchanger stays at I suppose. Honest answer = I’m not sure. I know the fan speed slows in line with modulation, so in theory the HeX temp should stay high enough in the right range.

The Worcester Bosch Lifestyle boilers can now modulate down to 3kW which is very impressive. Before, with the Greenstar range, they only got as low as 7kW. About 5kW for the current Baxi’s iirc.

No ? Sherlock ?

?

Nail > head. Also vice versa, it will want to shut off sooner too ( if you have self-learning energy saving controls or manually manipulate that to allow the residual heat to ebb away ). Those are referred to as set-back controls. The new combi could go where the cylinder is now, and just go for a vertical flue. Done this hundreds of times. The kitchen tap may be the pain then though, but should be no worse than what you get now as the run would then be in 15mm not 22mm ( subject to you making that alteration to the existing plumbing of course ) so less primary dead legs of water to discharge before getting hot water to the furthest outlets.

If running off the neighbours supply, beware that this will need to be a significant size cable ( 6mm2 minimum ) fed off a 32a supply, so not just a case of running a B&Q extension lead as it just will not have the capacity to deal with laundry after voltage drop. The circuit would need to be able to cope with what is onm it already, plus whatever you draw. If they have an external meter and there are Henley blocks there, and you get on with them like bests-of-mates-ever, then chopping in a temporary 2 way CU and a landlord meter, then running 2 cables between to share the loads, would realistically be your only robust option there I'm afraid. Plus, if you plug into the neighbours with a 13a plug from an extension lead you'll deffo need to put a 10a fuse in it to be sure you do not set fire to the neighbours house!! Just hire a silent genny, if it's only for a couple of months, and be self sufficient ( also without the risk of pissing the neighbours off ) Requests for...."can you reset your trip-switch AGAIN please......" ever other day never goes down well.