-
Posts
31390 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
346
Everything posted by Nickfromwales
-
No problems there just not a great idea to have the pipes low in the slab. How much insulation is underneath?
-
Hungary I’m eating a bacon and egg toastie, on brown, with brown sauce. That’s what hungry is doing
-
Yup. They could just make the strip a little bit wider and add more cross sectional area to the conductors…..Not sure why they are all thinking smaller is better tbh, as the increase would be relatively marginal.
-
Dependant on lifestyle, so very relevant to many, including me. My tumble drier goes towards central heating because the thing is always going. Suits me to chuck it in there and go about my day vs pegging out the laundry. Sounds frivolous to some ( that's you ) but is practical to me. Horses for courses, fleas accepted.
-
Plenty bright enough for £35
-
Dark room at night, with those strips installed in the ‘cornice / coving’ I made. IMG_2711.MP4 With added footage of where £2.5k went on a kick-ass gaming PC…….🙄😢
-
Thus eradicating your aforementioned concerns.
-
£35 for 10m kit. Just checked my history. EDIT, price has gone up to £39.99…. Could be a deal breaker for the few ‘financially prudent’ folk on here.
-
5m is the norm, and cutting at 25mm very very rare. Usually in 3 chip segments and at 50mm or so. I bought from Govee for my kids rooms, with addressable LED’s, chips on strip, and I am very very happy ( for the price ). Zero evidence of dimming or colour rendition fading through the 5m strip, and I was prepared to add a second connection to create a ‘ring’ but absolutely no need whatsoever. I bought via amazon, £35/5m iirc……cheaper than shoplifting.
-
? None are true UK, they’re all just resellers of Chinesium items. I’ve bought some great kits off Amazon.
-
This would have me heading out of their showroom door like Lynford.
-
Nonsense. You need a new supplier!!!
-
Sanding concrete slab before 100mm insulation?
Nickfromwales replied to ashthekid's topic in Floor Structures
Your PIR will not conform to that, you deffo need to get either some SLC or some sharp sand and ‘blind’ those shallows. -
So basically, based on the expected lifespan of the equipment, this is a goose which will continue to lay golden eggs for between 10 and 20 years. “Less typing, more fitting people!!!”
-
Inner Room for home cinema - Building Regs?
Nickfromwales replied to oadbyone's topic in Building Regulations
Yup. But it would be bringing cold air in unless you had an in-line or integral heater running. That would be very thirsty on electricity. Far better to try and circulate the air from the original room which would be at ambient temp imho. -
Inner Room for home cinema - Building Regs?
Nickfromwales replied to oadbyone's topic in Building Regulations
Extending the smoke detection system into there would be a no brainer. If you’re watching a movie and a smouldering fire starts, ideally you’d want to have, at the minimum, a strobe in the rear corner, but better to also have a multi sensor detector in there if the AV equipment lives in there too. Prob one in the outside ‘corridor’ that you would then create. A 5mm undercut on the door, plus a silent extractor fan in the corner opposite the door would be needed for mechanical ventilation, as a 3-4 people in there for 2 hours will all use up the clean air pdq. -
Yes, that’s the greedy pricks who ‘own’ the energy companies. They benefit in an utterly grotesque way, and we pay for it. Won’t be long before they get lifted by the ankles and actually have to re-fertilise the crop. Yes, you’re absolutely right. So, my 8 panel single hybrid inverter will be installed, G100 zero export permission asked for and gained, I’d like to see them demonstrate how a zero export system couldn’t be grid tied, and then give my PV system a squirt of steroids. Subsequent inverters, I will likely need 3 or 4, will be matching equipment and all set to zero export, and all function in parallel. Those dual input hybrids then have a connection for the batteries, so 48kWh of batteries intended. 24kWh for the get-go, then do 12 months statistical data gathering, and then add prob another 24kWh next year. Aim is for my meter to stop turning. After 2 years, and reliable service, I would seriously consider being disconnected and buy a small silent genny just to charge the batteries in winter. My standing charge just fecking DOUBLED, so another £500 a year to rent the SAME meter, the SAME cable, and that’s properly pissed me off. I will now pursue this even if purely for spite. But with gas cooking and heating and DHW via solar / immersion / gas during winter, I am confident that my dependency on an electric grid connection is very, very viable and practical. If and when an EV becomes mandatory, I would assume a lot of improvements will have been done by then and the industry will have to rethink its policy on the cost of electricity. Maybe it’ll be a better grid to come back to, likelihood is something else I suppose.
-
Glue insulation PIR to concrete slab?
Nickfromwales replied to ashthekid's topic in Floor Structures
I can see the logic, as 50mm of LS has little weight per m2. One assumes they refer to the non foil-backed PIR? -
My opinion of late, is fcuk the DNO and the indignity of going on bender knee to them to “ask permission” to put a wedge of PV on my ( or your own ) home. They can bite my shiny metal ass afaic. I am going with hybrid inverters, ( plural ), zero export, non MCS ( as the payments are an insult ), and going nuts with battery storage. G100 compliant equipment has been chosen of course, so at the most I need the DNO to come visit to do a “witness visit” to confirm that my equipment does NOT export anything whatsoever. Their choice, not mine. I’m fitting panels everywhere so I can get as close to zero import as is possible. I don’t have to worry about how many kWp I’m fitting, as I do not ( will not ) need permission with everything loaded on the D/C side plus zero export limitation. Anyone worrying over what the current or future export payment value is / will be has seriously lost track of what they set out to do. Who cares about what the export value is, as you should be reducing that to a minuscule amount or less.
-
I wanted to both ‘thank’ and ‘like’ your post, but could only choose one lol. Cheers. My apologies. I am often trying to post in the few sporadic pockets between the chaos of running a business and bring a dad to 4 sprogs. Often I lack total clarity. So; 4kWp in the winter will produce 25% of that ( so 1kWp ) OR LESS, during winter, all the way down to zilch. I have prospective clients who ask about running central heating during winter by pushing PV output into an ASHP. I ask them what they see when they go outside snd look upwards in December and January. They say “oh, yes, grey clouds” eg zero sun, zero ( excess grade ) solar revenue from the ( fictitious ) man upstairs. I am stating that you WON’T get as much as 25%
-
Repairing Cracked Tile in Shower Enclosure
Nickfromwales replied to steveoelliott's topic in Wall Tiles & Tiling
If you have a steady hand you could easily cut it out. Multi tool online for £40 odd and upwards. Do you have a handyman? We could talk you through what needs doing no probs and it’s not rocket science. -
Repairing Cracked Tile in Shower Enclosure
Nickfromwales replied to steveoelliott's topic in Wall Tiles & Tiling
Do you have / can you get spare tiles? You can cut the tile tight to the chrome, TC blade in a multi tool and no beer the night before, and insert a new tile and reseal the vertical with silicone. Easy enough. The integrity of the plasterboard will decide if it turns into a pig of a job or not, as the tile may wish to take the plasterboard with it. Mr.Magic iirc specialises in these types of cosmetic repairs, but whatever you do to repair it will need to be robust as water will suck into that crack like fury. -
Alternatives to silicone for fitting sinks
Nickfromwales replied to markocosic's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
I do it. As long as you’re not blasting the stuff over riven tiles / porous substrates where cleaning it back is a bitch, then you’ll be fine. I vary rarely use silicone these days. -
Alternatives to silicone for fitting sinks
Nickfromwales replied to markocosic's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
I would only rebate if it was into solid wood. The engineered composite, veneered tops may be ok as the core is usually a cheaper sacrificial wood block, but solid wood that is treated is way more resilient and would be the better outcome afaic. I install for clients, so always go a bit more belt and braces. -
Alternatives to silicone for fitting sinks
Nickfromwales replied to markocosic's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
Tacking down wayward slates most probably. Often get those few stubborn bastards which refuse to play nicely.
