Nickfromwales

It can also be mounted anywhere in the system as the original one is always specifically protecting the appliance

The new 40v makita stuff has my eye. I’ll need to get over it before going into CNS power tools again. Or leave my wallet at home.

You can never have too much expansion. The MI’s for the boiler will suggest that a system volume calculation be done to ascertain the total volume / temp / expansion and more is added to meet the system requirements. I would say you’d be around 12-14L to allow a good chunk of headroom, so adding another 7-8L would be what I would be doing if I was fitting that lot. Others may want to scrimp and save and do a calculation to just give enough and no more, but a bit of redundancy is always a good provision afaic. Also means less frequent topping up on the filling loop too.

I bought the 18v Makita work lights which are also cabled for 240v and was thoroughly pissed off that the battery doesn’t charge in there either.

Welcome to the Makita owners club, brother James. ?

Bonjour. Ask as many questions as you need to, it stops us getting bored ?. Better the builder let you down early on, vs half way through when it’s much messier to try and transition away from them. Welcome aboard.

If you’ve had an MCS installation then you are legally bound to not ‘cash out’ on the equipment. ??

Also, if members of the public are routinely invited there, it may need emergency lighting / fire extinguishers / signage / and all sorts. Check what is required specifically for the intended use.

If extending the building at a later date, I’d put a 25mm2 SWA in and that will allow an 80a connection. Would be a day of crying to find out the supply needed upgrading later down the line

BG CU’s have a decent amount of room inside so are a good choice for budget / non essential stuff like garages and outbuildings. Ask your spark to run 16mm SWA off a 60a switch fuse and tap into the meter tails with Henley blocks if you want a rock solid supply. Ask about earth provision and check any requirements for NOT exporting the supply earth from the house. At that short distance I would think it’s fine to export it, but sometimes rules differ with for eg metal clad buildings etc.

Agree. Poop.

I'm sorry, but that is rubbish. In 25+ years of installing all types of heating systems I have NEVER, not once, heard of any manufacturer ever stating that you must switch your heating on and leave it on 24/7 in the heating season. Nope. Nada. Nil. The summary here that it SHOULD be left on to keep this dwelling up to temp is a totally separate statement altogether. How about this; You could perhaps contact Vaillant, state to them that as a market leader in all heating and now renewables, how the fcuk could they have a system leave their factory headed for a guaranteed suicide mission?! Utterly and completely unacceptable from: a) a manufacturer of this pedigree, and b) if this was an MCS accredited installation then possibly a legal matter also, as clearly all questions in the MCS tick-list were filled in by Enid Blyton. At the minimum at least some improvements should have formed part of this contract, or the installation should 100% not have gone ahead. To give some completeness to my utter bewilderment here; I once worked for a business communications installation firm, and the comm's side of it was installing nothing but Panasonic KX series switches. When I started they were getting busier and busier and I was informed that I was to be sent to the head office in Bracknell to become accredited to install the Panasonic range of comm's products. When I asked why the original ( already employed and working alongside me ) accredited installer wasn't suffice I was told that in order to be supplied with the qty of products they were then ordering, there was a requirement from Panasonic to have at least 2 accredited members of staff at the firm. They did not want their products being installed poorly and then to have their reputation this damaged. They said that, or they would refuse to supply X qty of products. I assume here that the MCS installer is at fault primarily ( further assuming Vaillant did not install this themselves and a private / 3rd party installer was used ) as this installation was mis--sold on a good day, and illegal on the worst. @zoothorn You have blood on your hands here, as you have stated you knew this would not perform as it should in terms of the current state of the builds fabric and ventilation heat losses eg maintaining a decent ambient internal temp in the same way a high-temp heat source would. That is a separate statement and not intended to be applied to the issues of noisy / faulty / incorrectly installed equipment btw so please do not reply any differently. In terms of what to do next; Have the 11kW mono block installed. Any less than 11kW then tell them to FO as the maths will not have been done again at that point and around we will go. That will give you heated water entering your property in a manner that befits putting your frustrations to bed as there will be no internal compressor ( suitcase ) unit at all. The most you would have is a plate heat exchanger to separate glycol mix from your internal primary heating circuit brine and a standard UK circulation pump to circulate the heat from the HeX to your rads / UVC. Problem here will be completely resolved in that instant. New problem; The system will still struggle to heat your block of swiss cheese. You know that so no need to post it here ever again. Possible solution; 1) Fit massive radiators ( not BIG radiators but MASSIVE ones ) and do nothing to the fabric of the build, use whenever you like, and say no more about it. 2) Improve the fabric and ventilation heat losses by plugging up holes / improving glazing units / replace or overhaul door and window to get them to seal / install IWI or EWI and so forth to then stop the heat that this system creates from escaping the second it is created. 3) As 2 is a longer term plan, budget dependant etc, then for the interim you should fit low speed tangential fans to the undersides of the existing ( too small for the immediate ) radiators which will blow the heat away from the rads and around the room. Google will show you makes / models / give advice on improvements and installation etc, but as were nice folk here......... here's a Link to get you started 4) Buy a lot of jumpers, from the money saved from not using heating at all. 5) Fit fossil fuel based CH and move on with your life. Clear concise advice above, and I am not being critical or horrible, but you cannot get a pint out of a half--pint pot mate. Somethings gotta give. Summary; Allow them to fit the new mono block ASAP. The sack of shart that is there now is damaging your brain. FYI they fitted a split because they are inherently high-temp and better suited to your block of Swiss cheese. Up to 80/85oC flow rates are then possible, but subsequently the defrost troll that lives under the bridge will want to tax this system to boot. Question the size of the rads they fitted and insist in larger doubles in the worst rooms ( which should have been made massive on the first install but hey--ho ). Enjoy not having the internal compressor, and your new found relative peace and quiet ( allowing for the low hum of internal HeX pump, if so required, which will be as quiet as this install is EVER going to get ), but do not moan about being cold or the system not performing extremely well as you know deep down that it won't until you improve the house that it is forced to reside in. Good luck, and I genuinely mean that. To all; So nobody loses any sleep :- DISCLAIMER: to date I have never actually seen the defrost troll. Should this situation change, I will update here accordingly. "Focker, out!"

Have you checked the brushes? They usually just screw out each side. 5 to 10 mins to remove and examine. I’d start there as they wear down and then just don’t meet the armature any more ergo motor stops turning one day.

How old is it? Brushed or brushless?

Can you use the same code twice? I think I’ll buy another 2 of those tbh. Bought 2 already @ £150. If I get £50 back for each of the BNIB drill - charger - case combos then that’s a deal and a half afaic. Change of £370 for 8 batteries = <£47 a battery. Just got so much 18v stuff now, radios / work lights / few in tools + few on charge, they soon go and you’re soon looking for one to pinch from something to keep you going.

3 year warranty with makita has been no-quibble to date. Replacement tools attract another 3 years of cover. Bingo bango ?. Not enough hours in the day to try and fix things but a free multi tool for £20 is a good day in anyone’s book. If anyone does not have a multi tool yet, get one, they’re just so damn handy. Didn’t know I needed one until on site with my mate and I used his corded Fein Multimaster. ?

I have a few Bosch tools, laser, 2kg SDS, BFO SDSMax drill breaker and pretty much every drill bit I own. You’ll not go wrong there ? Remember to buy IMPACT bits and an IMPACT bit holder as regular ones will not last 5 mins due to the shock of the impact.. Non impact bit holders have a black shaft / chrome holder, and are two pieces bonded together. Look for solid ‘one-piece’ items rated accordingly.

Impact drills are the dogs danglies, and make mincemeat out of sending home hundreds of 90/100mm no.10 screws. Night and day different to drill drivers where the drill is reliant on you pushing onto the screw to make sure it gets sent home. Hard to describe how different an impact is, but once you use one you'll never go back I promise you. Noisy, yes a little, but just sooooo much easier to use and less fatigue of the operators arms / hands etc compared to the drill driver. FWIW I bought the oil impulse Makita impact ( £ouch ) as my tinnitus does not like most other impacts. I have to say I find the DeWalt ones incredibly noisy by comparison. Ahh, bless him, he still uses the starting handle of his model T to stir his Ovaltine........ This is still crazy cheap for a set with 2x5.0ah batteries. Add one of these and you'll be a very happy man for the money.

90 studs is not much tbh. I think if you’re not used to using a nail gun I’d stick with screws and an impact driver. Far more use out of an impact plus if you stick a gas nail in, and the wood is not in the right place, it’s a pita to get it out / adjust afterwards. Screws go in / out with ease and fixings can be altered in seconds. Gas nail guns typically require the wood to be held in place or a bloody snug hammer tapped in type of fit to keep it still while you fire the gun. DIY not in my opinion but you may be a tool ninja so hard to say with confidence to buy a nail gun for a first project that’s not exactly a very big job. Much higher minimum quantity purchase with the nails and has too, so if you’ve no further work for it you’ll have surplus which you can’t use.

Go buy your boiler lol.

24kW will suffice. I've seen the ancient Ariston 23MFFI's ( micro--combi ) doing a church vestry and a bunch of much bigger rads after them, which is about as adverse as it gets. Don't be tempted by the 32 it's just not needed. If DHW isn't a huge priority ( as you have only one mixer ) then it'll be fine when servicing both, but my recommendation would be to rid yourself of at least 1 of the remaining 2 electric showers and get the hot water flow up via the UVC. If you find you're struggling for DHW then, just change from S--plan to W-plan and you'll be fine.

Yup. RWH water is class 5 which is about as bad as a septic tank.

Fit a Telford Tristore if you want no G3

Just make pockets where needed rather than volume work / costs / loss of height with oversized battens. It’s relatively simple to do.

Yes, a nice diffused light off those. I just fitted some for my clients in Oxford and very happy with the results ( bedroom ). Used These in the dining room and entrance lobby for a wart-free ‘infinite’ look to the ceiling. Champagne looks on lemonade money ?