Nickfromwales

I’ve heard mention of planned power outages / reduced consumption windows a-la some other countries, is this to be implemented in old Blighty? Eg grid dropping available power between x o’clock and x o’clock each day, or it going off altogether. Surely not!? Discuss please! I will loiter in the background.

I did the same, ( less extravagant by an order of magnitude ), by taking my home office out of the house and relocating into the 6m x 3.7m man-shed that I made at the side of the house ( plot same size as the existing house mirrored at the side, same title etc ) and it’s a kid-free zone when the doors closed. Bliss lol. Faux pas was not to insulate it, but that’s being rectified this winter for sure before fitting an A2A split A/C unit in there. Got a load of favours banked so a team effort should see that done in a jiffy.

Same here. Gave my old boss ( AKA Adolf ) the 2-finger salute and decided to sell around £5k of my home cinema kit to get 1st van / tools and set up on my own. Best bit was, the second his customers knew I’d set up on my own, they started using me instead lol. Nice little starter package, a near-instant customer base! I do miss my Velodyne sub too, that would have knocked her fillings back in Eyewateringly expensive kit when new……..and now cheaper than shoplifting ( “vintage” now ! ). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313748513426?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMInsTBvruH-wIVibPtCh3HYg9ZEAQYASABEgJqmfD_BwE

Yup. Decoiler all the way for me too. Just back-breaking work rolling a bog heavy coil around IMO, even if there’s 2 of you. When the coil pulls off from the internal ‘windings’ you have to rotate the coil 1.5 times per rotation as when the larger circumference goes 1m, you haven’t then dispensed 1m of pipe. Just becomes a real pita afaic. On a decoiler it is just sooooo simple and easy, why struggle? One man application is a breeze. My opinion is based on pulling all the loops off big 500m or 200m coils, as the purchase / installation / labour economics / are better if there’s less downtime, plus it tends to give less waste as you’re not trying to match loops to loop lengths and then being stuck with loads of short ( useless ) off cuts.

@Radian Check with the window profile to make sure that’s not a drainage channel, as you may get water in it if there’s a downpour if so. If that section is purely a threshold you should be good 👍 The super flat speaker wire is another solution. Lay it next to the carpet grippers, and it’s ok to take a bit of traffic if you tape it well. Only prob is you can’t go round bends with it so point-to-point only, or bend it over itself to turn at your own discretion ( strictly no traffic at that point btw ). Biggest regret for my home audio days was selling my Kef Ref 104.2’s. 😑.😥 Kept my Yamaha DSP A2, just too good to punt out at the couple of hundred I’d struggle to sell it for today. Monster power out of that thing!

That’s not an attempt, that’s a good bit of planning / execution is what that is 😎👍

You can. Above = bombproof 😎👍

BH T’s & C’s state that we can bully you at out leisure. No retreat, no surrender.

I have many “doomsday” plans for staying warm and well lit. 👀.

Jesus. At least he will be meeting Jesus soon. Disclaimer. Jesus does not actually exist.

Yup. 1st year apprentice would be sacked on the spot for that 💪.

You just find two bits of wood close together, put a long piece in, and bend it. “Use the force…..”

No metal on insulation / plastic for me, only fear is that they can chew through.

Lose the banding, and put another rubberised clamp just under the shoe of the rest bend. Do as @TonyT says.

How many times do you fill the whole sink with water? If it’s daily, then 15mm prob better tbph. Bit more of a delay, but for your specific circumstances it’s very likely you will open the tap at a reasonably high rate of knots to fill the sink anyways, thus negating this ‘problem’ regarding differing pipe sizes vs performance, and you’ll be able to keep the cold slug of dead leg as useful volume as you’ll be putting a lot of hot on top of it. That means little / no wasted water if you don’t have an HRC at the kitchen.

Cool. Can I run an extension lead from there back to my house? You’ll barely notice it

If the restriction is the device ( outlet ) then whatever pipe you fit, as long as it provides the minimum amount of water or more, will suffice. 15mm or 22mm will only deliver the potential available at the mains, after the stopcock / NRV etc, so a little academic imo. Fwiw, I have never piped a shower in 22mm pipework, ever, and have done more high-end / “luxury” bathroom installations than I can remember. Pretty much every one of those reported “fantastic” showers as an upgrade from either electric, gravity mixer, or pumped mixers. The only time I can say that this potential arrived at the shower head was when I installed customer supplied free standing steam / shower units ( cheap Chinese junk on a good day ) or again anything produced outside of the EU where there was little or no attenuation built in by design. These resulted in horrible, coarse, almost unpleasant jets of water flying out of the shower heads / sprays etc and the handsets become so violent that they tipped backwards in their holsters or came out of them altogether. And guess what? I had to install online flow restriction to calm than back down Also, that amount of cow makes the shower very noisy, in both the emitted water bouncing off walls and floors, but also when it’s travelling ( squeezing its way ) through the cheapy outlet. I’ve got shower runs in in a good few new builds where the runs are all 15mm, with good quality outlets ( Vado / Hans Grohe / Bristan etc ) and zero problems - zero complaints, and some on runs in excess of 25m, some longer. One of the big advantages of running Hep2o from manifold to outlet is the ability to run with long swept bends in one continuous run, thus making these runs the least resistive / convoluted runs possible, with the only acute bends / connections being at the outlet itself.

🤢🤮 and if not, wash it down with some frogs and snails……. Wtf 😳.

Yup. Flow can be stupidly low, but still give you the heat you require. A lot to do with the type of emitter though, eg thick vs thin ( slab vs screed ) will perform very differently.

Especially if they’re vegans lol.

Of course. Us professionals cannot possibly allow you, as a newbie, to get this right first time now can we?! So; OK. The rest bend will eventually fall off. Do as Bruce says above, and clamp that well. The shoe on the bend is supposed to be where the thud gets arrested, but that’ll be off before you know it

Yup. Not life or death, but every little helps.

You know too much, so we build in some insurance with your project

For any I insulated pipes yes, if using on insulated pipes you’ll need Talon clips plus Talon spacers or the pipe won’t be far enough from the mounting surface to allow for the insulation.

I don’t use clips, I use all round band, black powder coated. For the HRC I use 25mm wall 22mm bore Climaflex and then a 50mm waste clip works perfectly.