Nickfromwales

They’re for lunch usually. Away in hotels a lot atm so I choose nice ones where the chef knows how to poach an egg at least Surprising how many don’t !!

Pesto Cod fillet on a bed of “wilted” greens, ill have you know. America IPA ( Shipyard ) is providing the necessary lubrication to wash it all down 👍

That should keep Shirley quiet for 15 mins

Chill, Winston. Do you have another inspection elbow on site? If so, can you post a pic of the internal bore for ‘er indoors aka @PeterW ?

Nope. The insert of that particular inspection elbow is a very flush and snug fit, with the internal bore of the bend nigh on smooth and ‘snag-free’.

How exactly are all the connections to come together at one invert at the “green blob” (lol)? Assuming the red line connects at 1st floor? Anyhoo…… You cannot have a change of direction for food wastes or ‘solids’, so main kitchen run would need to be direct to the inspection chamber, and the green stack rising would also connect to the same inspection chamber, each with their own inlet / spur. The green stack cannot drop into a branch, it MUST drop to a supported REST bend and that must go in a straight line to the chamber. In an ideal world, you would be taking the underground foul pipe around to the back of the house and you’d be fitting another inspection chamber just for the kitchen.

Have another look…… It isn’t a ‘full drop’ it’s just a small drop from horizontal. The only thing I would have done differently here would have been to use a 135 bend into a 135 branch, with the open end on horizontal having the cleaning / rodding eye. @Thorfun, you can relax. The plumbing grinch is being too picky here IMO, and the clip immediately after it is sufficient support AFAIC.

Modern units sized appropriately are actually very quiet indeed. They wouldn’t be destined for my bedrooms if not

Would you have switched on air con in those rooms if it was there? eg over the recent ( brief ) summer. The only thing rads can do is heat, air con can both heat and cool. @Digger1 FYI, the second I can take some bloody time off work I am going to ‘plumb’ my house for A2A in the 5 bedrooms and the landing, plus my shed ( office / man cave ) for sure. Rads will very likely be removed from those rooms as I can make much better use of the floor space then with the split units up high / over doors etc where that is already dead space. I’d say more ill-informed and a bit long in the tooth Prob saying exactly what I would have said 10 years ago. The other inefficiency that you must factor in, is with gas / rads you;’d need to get the boiler lit / up to temp / heat up all the large bore pipework / and all of that needs adding in. Plus bedrooms will usually only need a whiff of heat, so if they’re calling independently the boiler will prob not spend much time fully condensing. AC is a great place to send any excess PV to, after DHW is satisfied.

40 lashes. Assume nothing.

I’ve just realised, you’re causing yourself a bit of unnecessary pain and suffering by not using fittings from the underground ( orange coloured ) range. These will give you 15o and 30o bends, whereas it looks like you’re mostly ( ore exclusively ) using 45o ( aka 135o ) bends?

Yup. 👍

Right…… Number one schoolboy error. On a run supporting something such as this, you need to fit a clip, on the pipework, immediately prior to each fitting either end. If it looks like a see-saw, gues what it'll do

Just chuck an 80 grit flapper wheel in the grinder and dispense of these acts of tomfoolery…..

@pocster spent 1/2 a day trying to charge them before fitting them……..

Silence, fool. PV then, indirectly, but Steibel Eltron ASHP install this week…..( well almost, was a fail to launch today, even with the best will in the world sometimes it’s better to re-convene…. ). However; Never too busy to prevent you from giving poor plumbing or grouting advice.

“Disappointed”? I’ll be absolutelyfcukingbesidesmyselftothepointofinconsolable ……..

The only failed tiled floors I’ve replaced have been where a binder such as ply or membrane hasn’t been used At the absolute minimum you must install a 3.6 ( aka 4mm ) plywood binder, glued down and screwed at 100-120mm centres to give something for the adhesive to get its teeth stuck into. That, or a decoupling membrane such as Ditra. Unless you hugely improve the insulation ( and draught-proofing ) then I would not go with UFH. You’ll be running it nigh-on constantly in the winter, in an ever-losing battle against the significant amount of ventilation and fabric heat losses associated with this type / age of structure. To put UFH over a cold-ventilated subfloor is a difficult task to manage in terms of heat and energy requirements, even in a modern build with block and beam. Rads will give almost immediate heat to the spaces, so you can time the heating-on times to better suit your needs. UFH will likely never turn off in the winter, instead you’ll be toggling between economy heating tempos and then comfort to stave off the long recovery times that the UFH will promote. If you can install some 20mm strips of Compacfoam atop each joist to kill off cold bringing then that will pay big dividends from not creating cold ‘spots’ at each junction, plus that’ll allow you and additional 20mm void to fill with more PIR.

Not anyone I know, and not on any of my turnkey passive clients builds…… Prob best to leave him keep running, as he prob just doesn’t understand what is required to maintain the airtight envelope.

Rads with TRV’s vs UFH in plates, pipe, manifold, pump, blending valve, actuators, individual rooms stats and wiring….. Doubt it, but DIY can reduce this a fair bit.

Turn all other loops off during the day, drop the temp and run the new loop to “thermally shock” the new screed, and reverse for the evening. Do that once or twice and you should be fine to go full throttle as normal.

Not good advice. Sorry. By the time you next look, they’ll have started to rust, irreversibly if this IS water leaking and not pipe compound / other contamination from the installation.

What they may have used is what I buy for 1” - 1”1/4 and over; Link I used Stelrad, when still promoting setting fire to stuff to heat homes. They do a range which have slightly curved cosmetic grilles / side panels which look very nice for not much more. Myson stuff is very good too. Screwfix and B&Q, iirc, sell Kudox stuff. Big bags is shite when they first started selling them, half height convector panels presenting less kW per m2 is radiator size etc, crap covers, and almost every one I fitted was already rusting from the wet test. The biggest annoyance was the lack of paint at the pipe connection bosses where, when you removed the plastic factory plugs, you’d have bare metal exposed where the paint came away with the plug. That’s where the rust starts. I looked at them the other week, and now seem improved. Can’t say I’d buy one though, sorry!! PM me with which is your local branch of Wolesely ( aka Plumb Center ) and I’ll see what I can do for you. You’ll need a list of everything you need ready to go.

Sadly, when the shizten hits the fan, conversations / spoken words mean zilch. It’s ONLY what is in ink ( email / text / WhatsApp etc / scribbled on a bit of loo roll ) that makes any difference whatsoever if you wish to attack or defend. All the good will in the world means absolutely nothing. Customers can keep taking, refuse to pay for all the things they asked you to do, agree that they are elegant solutions, but then just switch off where you ask for payment. If things were written down and agreed beforehand, as they should always be, I’d be better off right now to the tube of 5 figures myself, so know that is a fact. Even if you write it for someone ( who’s sword is mightier than their pen ) and they receive it from you, you’re 100% covered for any recourse.

Just watch it. You’ll feel better. Trust me.